A little bit of fuel system R & R.

[malibu795]

Got parts list for filter and heads? Kinda need it shortly

 

[Burning oil]

Got parts list for filter and heads? Kinda need it shortly

These are avaiable from me. http://www.pmdcable.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=27

 

[BigBlueChevy]

I believe that the filter head that Leroy sells above is also compatible with some of the CAT advanced efficiency 2 microns filters in the 1R-0750 flavor since its a 1-14" threads.

For my primary filter, I don't have a P/N for the head and even the spare I have sitting here at the apartment doesn't have a P/N or anything on it. Here is where i got this filter:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CATERPILLAR...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1d6081f1&vxp=mtr

P/N's for the secondary filter assembly is as follows:

• P/N: 141-5138 (Filter base) - $30.54
• P/N: 6N-4414 (Filter base cover) - $13.61
• P/N: 1P-0436 (Cover gasket) - $1.72
• P/N: 6V-2315 (Bolt #1) -$.32
• P/N: 6v-5218 (bolt #2) - $.46

Also, I forgot to note, that the secondary filter head has a boss machined into it at the top of the filter(outlet) to accept a pressure or temperature sensor(or anything for that matter really) that is STOR type. I put a plug in mine simply because there is no way I could squeeze anything up between the body and the top of the filter head.

And of course the filter itself. For now I chose the 1R-0751 (2 micron) filter simply because they had it in stock. When I go to change the filters next year I plan to user the 306-9199 CAT Ultra High Efficiency filter instead, which is the exact same size as the 1R-0751 thats on there now.

For those of you that don't have the height requirements like I did, there is another filter of the UHE flavor P/N: 364-5287. That filter is slightly longer than the 306-9199. Really not all that big of a deal but it may provide you with a tad bit more filtering surface area. Especially if you live somewhere where fuel quality is questionable. Or if your running biodiesel, WVO, Engine oil or some other combustible fluid in your rig.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

sounds like a lil valve train clatter but otherwise sounds like a typical 6.5. be interesting to see if it changes

The valve-train clatter I can pick up sounding normal, but the occasional kuh-kuh-klack-kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh-klack-klack I hear (you can hear it best just before I set the camera on the tire) while the engine is at idle gives it away. Not to mention the heat soak issues I've been fighting with after I run the truck and it doesn't sit long enough. Before I got the filters and Walbro on it would buck and shutter and misfire till I suppose it got some cool fuel flowing through it enough to cool the pump down. Plus the higher pressure into the inlet of the pump seems to be compensating slightly for the wear...

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Woo Hoo! Finally got the little green truck all finished up yesterday, and the weather couldn't have been better for it. The new injection pump is in, timed and receiving an ample amount of fuel to boot! (just ask the guy in the white car that was behind me when I decided to mash the go pedal on the test drive )

The pump has been setup with my own version of the feed-the-beast mod. Big difference going from a 1/4" inlet to 3/8". Hard to believe my lawnmower and truck shared the same size fuel inlet :nonod:

Here was everything when i popped open the hood yesterday morning. Even fixed a few leaks around the intake manifold area. Especially around the EGR valve that, as you can see, wasn't sealing right.

Once I got everything out of the way I was able to clean up the valley quite a bit. Fuel filter manager? Gone. Good riddens to that damned thing. I was able to just unplug the fuel heater as well as the WIF sensor and upon completion had no check engine light or WIF light come on. I may see later on down the road if I can source a slightly shorter fuel /water separator that will fit the base I have so I can install a WIF sensor in it. Didn't need to do any fancy cutting or splicing once that was out of the way. Simply loosened the hose clamp at the back of the engine and slid the old piece of fuel hose off (that was damp to note, seems it was leaking slightly too), and slid the new piece of 3/8" pushlok with a hose clamp right over the barb.

There was enough crap in the valley there that it actually needed a vacuum and I still managed to plug the valley drain port several times as everything washed away.:mad2: Oh well, its clean now. How someone manages to get that much crap in the valley is beyond me... Makes me wonder if this truck spent some time under a tree with the hood up before I got ahold of it.

I has greeted with a very nice casting on the sides of the valley. Nice to know I've got a 929 block under the hood:thumbsup:

And the finished piece! The picture sucks I know. The sun was right over my head when I went to take it earlier today. Good news it there is not a drop of fuel or oil under the truck after sitting from yesterday till this morning. Dry as a bone under there. And I couldn't be happier with that. So far the truck is running AWESOME. Its so smooth and quiet. Major improvement in response from the pedal. Doesn't hesitate or buck / sputter anymore. Hot start has gone away as well. Nice to know I can take the old girl back out without worry of any troubles again.

Gonna post this now and add the video clip as soon as YouTube is done taking is sweet a** time. Or my laptop overheats and shutsoff. Lets see what happens first!

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Video is up. And it sounds just as good as it does in person

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huY2L6Xu9oM&feature=youtu.be

 

[tanman_2006]

Very nice! Any reason you still run egr? What mpgs you get in the little truck?

 

[racedaymechanic]

Well what the hell I may as well post up my set up its been a while

how I mounted it

and

I cut the Steel fuel line and flared it so it would go right to a -6an fitting no clamps

The Fuel Filter set up

and heres the bracket I build for the Racor filter set up on the 6.5

 

[orrum]

Leroys Walbro and plug n play setup with prefilter is the way I went. My prefilter is a 30 micron and I have a secondary filter on the fender well that is 5 micron and also the factory 5 micron FFM is still hooked up. I run a 90 percent veggie oil blend and the walbro gives me 10 lb pressure pre ip at idle and 5-6 lbs at 55 mph no matter if its 40 or 90 degrees! Gets below 40 I only go 45 mph to keep the pressure above 4.5 lbs.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Very nice! Any reason you still run egr? What mpgs you get in the little truck?

Honestly, the EGR system is one of those items on the truck (or any truck for that matter) that doesn't really bother me. I'm far from a tree hugger, but it does somewhat help control Nox out the tailpipe, with the exception of new hoses its pretty much maintenance free, and the system doesn't effect performance or give me better MPG's by removing it. If I ever get a hold of a good usable one, at some-point I'd even like to put an oxidation catalyst back in the exhaust. Something off of a newer truck that has a 4" inlet / outlet so it doesn't effect flow. Make it reversible too so that its held on by either v-band clamps or band clamps so that you can just flip it around after every oil change or so to avoid it getting plugged up. But that's for another thread I suppose.

Without all my tools and the welder in the bed there where times where I saw 24 mpg. But that was doing about 50-55mph along back country roads seeing just how good I could make the fuel economy hit. Around town it regularly gets 18. Highway will see around 21 or so. Of course with all my crap in it that drops too around 19 on the highway and 16ish around town. There's an old GM add that shows a 2wd 6.2L RC/lb from around ...84' I think? that claims that truck could get 31mpg on the highway. Someday I want to be able to get to this truck to that point. First step is to change the gearing ratio from 4.10 to 3.42 or lower

And Bruce, as always, your setup looks awesome :thumbsup: Wish I had access to a fraction of the fabrication equipment that you do. It would certainly make my work alot easier lol. Later on down the road I want to add a fuel rail(log) just before the IP inlet so I can install a drain port like the factory setup had, and fuel pressure sensor. Otherwise, so far I'm very pleased with the system. Now lets see how it does longevity wise... the old injection pump I replaced had a tag on it as a rebuild from late 2004

 

[ak diesel driver]

they replaces everything cept the expensive parts namely head and rotor

 

[handcannon]

I just listened to both videos, back to back. So that clack-clack sound, that is gone in your second video, is from a worn IP? If I'm understanding you correctly then I need to start saving my pennies for eventually replacing my IP. I have 242K miles on the odometer with no history of the rig prior to 160K miles, except that holes in the bed show that it has done some towing. A friend bought this rig at 160K and the only mechanical repair he did was to replace the alternator and the water pump. I bought this rig from him with 231K on the odo and for good measure I replaced the glows and injectors since he had no idea what had been done before he got it.

Don

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Don,
Its hard to say really. A bit more diagnostics would be needed on that on that one. Especially a rig with an unknown service history. It COULD be a worn rotor / cam ring similar to my problem. It COULD be warn injection nozzles too. It COULD be the PMD. My injectors are all new with less than 7000 miles on them and before replacing my pump tested them to confirm it wasn't a defective nozzle rather than jumping and replacing the IP pump right off the bat.

My recommendation, start with your nozzles first. They are a hell of alot cheaper (and perhaps not as difficult) to replace as the whole IP. One method, which works decently well, is take a loooong flatblade screwdriver and hold the blade against the nozzle body. Then hold the handle against your ear. Do this while the engine is running both first started (cold), and at operating temperature at each individual nozzle. You will be able to "hear" the nozzle pop. Take a moment and listen to how each one sounds. A good nozzle will be consistent in "popping"(tick-tick-tick-tick-tick). A defective nozzle will be inconsistent, and in some cases, when it doesn't fire when its supposed too, may make the engine rock / shake just a bit. (tick-tick-tick-tick--tick-tick--tick-tick).

Plus, with that kind of mileage, most guys here will tell you to replace the nozzles anyway, simply because they do not have the longest life span too them (roughly 100,000 miles normal, 80,000 miles towing) You can get a set of 8 reman nozzles, return lines, copper washers, glowplugs, and gaskets for less than $400 depending on who you go too.

 

[handcannon]

I have less than 10K miles on Bosch injectors.

I've used that screwdriver/hose trick for gassers, but never even thought about it for checking injectors. I'll do that just to be sure the injectors are working good/each cylinder is firing like it should. I've often wondered how to easily check injectors without having to get a wrench down past the turbo to loosen the injector lines.

Thanks for the idea.

Don

 

[BigBlueChevy]

I have less than 10K miles on Bosch injectors.

I've used that screwdriver/hose trick for gassers, but never even thought about it for checking injectors. I'll do that just to be sure the injectors are working good/each cylinder is firing like it should. I've often wondered how to easily check injectors without having to get a wrench down past the turbo to loosen the injector lines.

Thanks for the idea.

Don

No problem. That trick works on just about everything. Bearings too. Its been one of those awesome diagnostic tools that you just don't expect to use!

 

[handcannon]

I used to have a three foot long section of small diameter garden hose that I used for the same things. It worked great for all that kind of stuff, and was flexible enough to get into areas that something like a long screwdriver couldn't. Not sure whatever happened to it though.

It's amazing what you can find to use for that kind of diagnosing. Your imagination is your limit.

Don

 

[BigBlueChevy]

I use my telescoping magnet for that kind of stuff. Its one of those crazy powerful ones that supposedly can lift up a 16lb bowling ball. Great for pulling the bolts out on the IP gear that if you drop them inside the gear case, even as a man, you are permitted to start crying. I'll usually back them all the way out, than run them in by about a thread or two, then put the magnet against the bolt head and spin the bolt back out. Works like a charm everytime.

On a progress related note, Its been almost a week now since I installed everything and its running great. I did order a 3/8" check valve (biodiesel rated to boot) that I'm going to install after the secondary filter and before the steel line going up to the back of the engine. I did notice that if the truck sits for about 2 days it will take about 1 seconds longer to start and will run rough for about another 1.5 seconds till fuel pressure builds up. Than its levels out and runs just as great as the video. Took it for a 60 mile trip on Thursday and it ran beautifully the whole way. The engine actually seems a bit "lighter on its feet" at highway speed. Almost like its asking for more of a load. I'll be taking a 200 mile trip this weekend to really gauge how it handles. Especially at an altitude of over 5000' feet

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Nice Job!

 

[Burning oil]

Jamie, I try to describe the difference to pepole. You discribed it well.

 

[Paveltolz]

.... if you drop them inside the gear case, even as a man, you are permitted to start crying..

:rof: too true and too funny. :rof:

I use my telescoping magnet for that kind of stuff. ...I'll usually back them all the way out, than run them in by about a thread or two, then put the magnet against the bolt head and spin the bolt back out. Works like a charm every time.

I do the same thing putting stuff back on; spin the nut/bolt back on with the magnet although my magnet won't lift a 16' bowling ball...oh no, I hope I don't develop a case of "magnet envy." :hihi: