- Staff
- #41
That's where those weeks of work before hand come in to play.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
95 SUBURBAN to a 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON
- Thread starter THEFERMANATOR
- Start date
That's where those weeks of work before hand come in to play.
- Staff
- #42
Well I started the day by removing the fuel lines from the donor and putting them in the shop to put on tommorrow. Then I decided to tackle the wiring and get started there. Managed to get most all of the old engine wiring out and most of it laid out as to how to put the new back in. I also pulled the cluster out and redid the glow plug circuit as my 95 powered it but the DMAX grounds it.
The cluster is out and wiring getting sorted out.
The cluster before.
And after. You can see the jumper I installed to the power that would have been for the DRL(my 95 doesn't have daytime running lights) to where it used to be grounded. Picking the copper off the plastic is alot more work than you would think to boot.
Midway through cutting out the engine and uneeded connectors.
End of the day. Got almost all of it out and can start taping it back up tommorrow after I fix some of GM's SH!TTY splices. No wonder these trucks have developed so many grounding issues, GM did some HORRIBLE splices inside of the wiring harness's.
I always end up with a few extra pieces after a project like this):h.
The cluster is out and wiring getting sorted out.
The cluster before.
And after. You can see the jumper I installed to the power that would have been for the DRL(my 95 doesn't have daytime running lights) to where it used to be grounded. Picking the copper off the plastic is alot more work than you would think to boot.
Midway through cutting out the engine and uneeded connectors.
End of the day. Got almost all of it out and can start taping it back up tommorrow after I fix some of GM's SH!TTY splices. No wonder these trucks have developed so many grounding issues, GM did some HORRIBLE splices inside of the wiring harness's.
I always end up with a few extra pieces after a project like this):h.
I think this is an awesome project and it seems to be coming along nicely. If you need a hand with anything, let me know. I'm not far.
- Staff
- #44
If I look at it like it is somebody elses project it would be neat. Too me it has turned into an adventure, one that I have vowed to BEAT INTO SUBMISSION! Did you move Nick? I see your location is Bradenton now?
I did and I'm settled in. Am I closer to you?
- Staff
- #46
It's about the same actually. Bradenton is about an hours drive for me and Orlando was about 50 minutes. I'm hoping Brayden get's me my TCM this week as the electrical is actually coming together quicker than I thought it would. I just hope the local Chevy dealer has the pins to fit my old style fuse box, if so it will be a pretty straight forward wiring job. Just have to add in a few relays into empty slots in mine.
Looks like your getting close. The wireing can take as long as all the engine/trans work did.
- Staff
- #48
Don't have any pics, but I have been busting my tail on this thing all week. My pins for the fuse block just came in today so I can get back to wiring again soon. While I was waiting on my terminals for the fuse panel, I decided to hook up the transfer case shift linkage and I also got a shift linkage mount bracket fabbed up. the DURAMAX shift cable will not hook up to the early cloumn, so I had to buy a new shift cable(mine wouldn't stay on the shift arm as the nylon in the end that locks it on was worn) and custom fab my bracket as the 95 cable is 2 inches longer than the DMAX cable from the mount point to the shift arm. It is pretty tight under there as the 2" setback put the cable mount RIGHT next to the U-joint for the front shaft. I was able to get a 1/4" of clearance on the crossmember and a 1/2" on the shaft(may ned up bringing it in closer to the shaft if it hits the crossmember). So I can now shift it through it's gears in the trans and transfer case.
I pulled the tank out and removed my 5/16" return line and opened it up and installed a 1/2" feed line and will use my old 3/8" feed for my return and I have the fuel cooler off and am about ready to mount it under the truck as well as my KENNEDY lift pump. I discovered that the DMAX metal lines will not clear the steering linkage on my SUB, so I hooked up my nylon covered diesel line right to the quick connects and was able to get them over the lock portion so I could double clamp em on there. And I will just use nylon covered diesel flexible line for the bulk of the fuel system. The tranny cooler metal lines didn't clear my front axle mount with enough room for mmy liking even after some tweaking, so I got some AN hose and AN fittings and will just plumb the cooler system that way. This really sucks as I had already had the original lines done up with hydraulic line in place of the old rubber line.
While the fuel tank was out I did the rear gears today since that BIG opening made getting to the diff EASY as pie
. The GM 14 bolt 10.5" rear axle is actually pretty easy to build compared to the DANAS and CHRYSLER corporates I am used to building up. The tough part was torquing the pinion nut. This required a 4' 3/4" breaker bar and socket to match and locking the pinion yoke down in my vise. This allowed me to stand on the bar as my impact with 600 foot pounds could BARELY budge it(I had it in the press to install the front bearing and bring up the slack to the crush sleeve, even at 6 tons of pressure the crush sleeve didn't compress). It looks like I lucked out as my G80 looked BRAND NEW inside. I went ahead and pulled it apart and inspected the governor, and all the clutches were good and tight and all of the governor teeth were intact. I'm going to pull the rear hubs tommorrow and replace the axle seals since I'm this far into it. And hopefully get the fuel system plumbed as well.
I got my shipment from ALLIGATOR today, and will hopefully get my TCM tommorrow. That CORSA muffler is one BIG SOB now, espescially compared to the diamond eye that came in my exhaust kit. So I will have a 6.5 3" downpipe and a 4" straight through muffler for sale soon. Little by little I'm getting this thing tackled, but it's the little details that will KILL you in a project like this. I spent almost 2 hours trying to bend and fit the fuel lines in only to find they wouldn't clear the steering linkage after doing ALOT of bending and cutting on em. And you don't realize how much time you can spend bending and fitting a 1/2" feee tube and soldering and epoxying it in. The best way to describe it is an old saying we used in drag racing, "OEM = A complete list of all items that MUST be replaced or modified when building a performance vehicle."
I pulled the tank out and removed my 5/16" return line and opened it up and installed a 1/2" feed line and will use my old 3/8" feed for my return and I have the fuel cooler off and am about ready to mount it under the truck as well as my KENNEDY lift pump. I discovered that the DMAX metal lines will not clear the steering linkage on my SUB, so I hooked up my nylon covered diesel line right to the quick connects and was able to get them over the lock portion so I could double clamp em on there. And I will just use nylon covered diesel flexible line for the bulk of the fuel system. The tranny cooler metal lines didn't clear my front axle mount with enough room for mmy liking even after some tweaking, so I got some AN hose and AN fittings and will just plumb the cooler system that way. This really sucks as I had already had the original lines done up with hydraulic line in place of the old rubber line.
While the fuel tank was out I did the rear gears today since that BIG opening made getting to the diff EASY as pie
. The GM 14 bolt 10.5" rear axle is actually pretty easy to build compared to the DANAS and CHRYSLER corporates I am used to building up. The tough part was torquing the pinion nut. This required a 4' 3/4" breaker bar and socket to match and locking the pinion yoke down in my vise. This allowed me to stand on the bar as my impact with 600 foot pounds could BARELY budge it(I had it in the press to install the front bearing and bring up the slack to the crush sleeve, even at 6 tons of pressure the crush sleeve didn't compress). It looks like I lucked out as my G80 looked BRAND NEW inside. I went ahead and pulled it apart and inspected the governor, and all the clutches were good and tight and all of the governor teeth were intact. I'm going to pull the rear hubs tommorrow and replace the axle seals since I'm this far into it. And hopefully get the fuel system plumbed as well.I got my shipment from ALLIGATOR today, and will hopefully get my TCM tommorrow. That CORSA muffler is one BIG SOB now, espescially compared to the diamond eye that came in my exhaust kit. So I will have a 6.5 3" downpipe and a 4" straight through muffler for sale soon. Little by little I'm getting this thing tackled, but it's the little details that will KILL you in a project like this. I spent almost 2 hours trying to bend and fit the fuel lines in only to find they wouldn't clear the steering linkage after doing ALOT of bending and cutting on em. And you don't realize how much time you can spend bending and fitting a 1/2" feee tube and soldering and epoxying it in. The best way to describe it is an old saying we used in drag racing, "OEM = A complete list of all items that MUST be replaced or modified when building a performance vehicle."
- Staff
- #49
Time for my next update, I'll try and get a few pics tommorrow for my my next update. The fuel tank is back in and my 1/2" feed and 3/8" return are plumbed and my fuel cooler is hung right behind the frame support crossmember. Got my KENNEDY pump in and wired and primed it to the CP3 and found no leaks in the system. The rear end is finished up and new wheel cylinders installed. My TCM is supposed to be in MONDAY according to UPS tracking(the TCM was overnighted on FRIDAY, but UPS decided mine was important enough I guess), and hopefully my driveshaft is done as well. The majority of the wiring is done except for hooking up my relays in the PDC and wiring in my toggles and cruise switch inside the truck. I'm running into TAMPA tommorrow and hopefully my driveshaft is ready and I'll pick up some more hose and cushion clamps to finish up my plumbing.
I took it easy today after putting in several 14 hour days and nights trying to start her up this weekend. Hopefully tommorrow I can fire it off so I can verify my wiring and new injectors, but I'm not going to rush it.
I took it easy today after putting in several 14 hour days and nights trying to start her up this weekend. Hopefully tommorrow I can fire it off so I can verify my wiring and new injectors, but I'm not going to rush it.
- Staff
- #50
A small victory
I don't have many pics tonight, but I did make some headway with it. I got impatient today so I got the harness mostly finished up and decided to do a test fire to make sure it was all working properly. Well the first 3 attempts it just wheeled over and wouldn't fire a lick:mad2:. It was building rail pressure and such, and I had disabled the theft system with EFILIVE. So after about an hour of head scratching it dawned on me:33:, I had disconnected the FICM because I was doing some welding on the downpipe hanger on the engine. Hooked up the FICM and after about 3 seconds of cranking she came to life:thumbsup::banana:. After about 20 seconds of running it must have learned the new balance rates a bit and started smoothing out it's idle and sounded pretty good. SO hopefully this will give me a second wind and I can get this thing wrapped up soon and on the road.
Now for a few pics.
Heres the harness mostly together and ready for a test fire.
Heres the new location for the glow plug/intake heater fuse. It is right underneath and in front of the ABS pump and right behind where the drivers side battery will go. This also helped in the problem that the DMAX battery cables has too short of a lead to reach to my PDC for my 95, so I used the fuse block as a junction block and hooked on the 6 guage cable from the old harness on the battery side of the fuse block and this got me a good power cable to the PDC.
And heres the PDC almost finished up. I ran out of tape so I couldn't put the flex covering over it tonight. Didn't come out to bad for a spliced together mess.(And don't ask me how many solders and splices I had to make in that one little area, it's a good thing that I like electrical)
And a special treat, the audio sucks but you get the idea.
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/?action=view¤t=HPIM0984.flv
I don't have many pics tonight, but I did make some headway with it. I got impatient today so I got the harness mostly finished up and decided to do a test fire to make sure it was all working properly. Well the first 3 attempts it just wheeled over and wouldn't fire a lick:mad2:. It was building rail pressure and such, and I had disabled the theft system with EFILIVE. So after about an hour of head scratching it dawned on me:33:, I had disconnected the FICM because I was doing some welding on the downpipe hanger on the engine. Hooked up the FICM and after about 3 seconds of cranking she came to life:thumbsup::banana:. After about 20 seconds of running it must have learned the new balance rates a bit and started smoothing out it's idle and sounded pretty good. SO hopefully this will give me a second wind and I can get this thing wrapped up soon and on the road.
Now for a few pics.
Heres the harness mostly together and ready for a test fire.
Heres the new location for the glow plug/intake heater fuse. It is right underneath and in front of the ABS pump and right behind where the drivers side battery will go. This also helped in the problem that the DMAX battery cables has too short of a lead to reach to my PDC for my 95, so I used the fuse block as a junction block and hooked on the 6 guage cable from the old harness on the battery side of the fuse block and this got me a good power cable to the PDC.
And heres the PDC almost finished up. I ran out of tape so I couldn't put the flex covering over it tonight. Didn't come out to bad for a spliced together mess.(And don't ask me how many solders and splices I had to make in that one little area, it's a good thing that I like electrical)
And a special treat, the audio sucks but you get the idea.
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/?action=view¤t=HPIM0984.flv
qwomack
JP5 Junkie
Good job, Ferm. Keep up the great work. You have already got me scheming on doing this.
- Staff
- #52
I had a shorter day today as I have to go down tommorrow and get one of the new exhaust pipes expanded so it will fit onto my CORSA muffler. I got MOST all of the wiring in and done today as well as the driveshafts. Since I needed to have the pipe done I decided to take my time and make the wiring as neat as possible. After finishing up the wiring and putting the shafts in I started her up and put it in gear to see if it would go in and it dropped into forward and reverse right away. I also did 3 starts on it with no check engine light so I may be OK in the MIL department. The tachometer works fine since I am driving it off the alternator just like a 6.5 did. I still need to check my speed outputs as I decided to try and use the ECM's and bypas the VSSB(if they don't work I left the wires there so I can hook it back up).
Heres a shot of the engine with the harness's in place(ECM and TCM will be mounted last after everything is together).
Heres the PDC all finished up.
And I spent some time and made an updated insert to go in my PDC for correct fuses and relays.
My toggle switches in and my QUDZILLA guage.
The fuel cooler and you can also see the driveshaft.
And a few underside shots to show how tight the fit is.
Heres a shot of the engine with the harness's in place(ECM and TCM will be mounted last after everything is together).
Heres the PDC all finished up.
And I spent some time and made an updated insert to go in my PDC for correct fuses and relays.
My toggle switches in and my QUDZILLA guage.
The fuel cooler and you can also see the driveshaft.
And a few underside shots to show how tight the fit is.
Pepperidge
Member Advocate
Very nice
qwomack
JP5 Junkie
Do you have documentation for the wiring of the PCM/TCM or was it something you figured out on your own. I am very interested in knowing how you made the interface to the stock dash assembly.
- Staff
- #55
I got a membership to ALLDATA for both the donor and the receiver and just figured it out from there. I lost the DIC and such by retaining my stock 95 cluster, but I can live without an oil change reminder. The stock 95 cluster already has a warning module in it for overtemp and low oil pressure. As for the tach I'm using the alternator to trigger it like a 6.5 would. I haven't been able to verify the speedo operation yet, but it should work as both vehicles use a 2000 PPM signal. And the 01 ECM has a seperate output for the ABS so I am going to see if that one works correctly. I'm going alot off of theory right now until I can drive it to verify. The coolant temp guage is the only real problem area as a DMAX uses the CTS for the engine to tell the cluster what the coolant temp is and my 95 had a seperate sender. So I am going to use a remote mounted sender in the heater line at the top of the engine. The low coolant light works fine as the switch in the reservoir is simply an off on switch and the 95 has a seperate driver module to control the light. And the DMAX uses an open closed water in fuel sensor so I simply hooked the light driver to the sensor and it works.
Pepperidge
Member Advocate
can I ask what the toggles are for?
Sorry if you've already addressed this...
Sorry if you've already addressed this...
- Staff
- #57
The amber is for tow/haul, blue is for OD/LO, and green is for DSP2. I hooked the fast idle up directly to the power for the shift interlock and that works GREAT!. Just have to remember that this is an 01 and if I leave the cruise on it will go into fast idle(800) at start-up. I'm currently making a real basic starter tune in EFILIVE for it. I'm going to go basically stock on position 1 and a 20/20 tow tune on #2 to begin with and work from there.
btfarm
America First!
I'm very impressed Ferm... That's a huge job and you've met and conquered every obstacle all along. You should be proud!:thumbsup:
Too bad they closed the Lykes (Smithfield) bacon plant in Plant City. I used to have to go there on business occasionally so I could have stopped by... Ah well
Too bad they closed the Lykes (Smithfield) bacon plant in Plant City. I used to have to go there on business occasionally so I could have stopped by... Ah well
- Staff
- #59
Well I got the exhaust finished up yesterday, and I spent today cutting away at the radiator support to fit the DMAX intercooler and radiator in. It is a TIGHT fit between the radiator and fan clutch, but after about 4 hours of cutting and modifying I was able to get enough room to put the fan clutch on with the radiator in place which leaves me an inch of clearance between the clutch and core and 2 1/4" from the fan blade tips to the core. I decided to make it a close fit and severely modify the radiator support to accomadate a stock cooler and radiator rather than modifying the radiator, intercooler, and support. Once I get it boxed back together it will be plenty stout as I can sit on it now without it buckling and I am no where near done reinforcing it.
Here's a few shots of the exhaust. That 4" pipe looks HUGE compared to my old 3" pipe I had before.
And the CORSA muffler is a MONSTER compared to the 4" DIAMOND EYE that came in the kit. I ended up having to relocate the front hanger forward so I could move the muffler forward and I had to modify the middle hanger some to allow this as well.
Not a job for the timid.
Removed just a little bit bit of metal from it so far.
Here's a few shots of the exhaust. That 4" pipe looks HUGE compared to my old 3" pipe I had before.
And the CORSA muffler is a MONSTER compared to the 4" DIAMOND EYE that came in the kit. I ended up having to relocate the front hanger forward so I could move the muffler forward and I had to modify the middle hanger some to allow this as well.
Not a job for the timid.
Removed just a little bit bit of metal from it so far.
- Staff
- #60
I guess I've been slacking on updating this one. I got to driver today and feel her out a bit and the power of the DMAX is SWEET in this SUB. It has more power with 3.42's in it than my 6.5 EVER had with the 4.10's. I have run into a few bugs that have to be ironed out though. I'm leaving on my honeymoon on WEDNESDAY, so thankfully I have a back-up vehicle for my trip.
First off the heater return pipe from the heater cores to the lower radiator hose developed a leak in it right at the weld for the retaining arm.
So I'll have to get a new tube for when I get back. Also I have 2 codes that won't go away that I can find no reason for, P0748 and P0778. Also I have very little power in 1st gear and lots of blue smoke if I giver her more than about 20% throttle. This only seems to happen in 1st as 2nd and 3rd pulled VERY strongly. Also my tow/haul mode isn't functioning properly as it gives me VERY hard shifts when engaged and holds them out ridicuously long and provides NO grade braking what so ever. I wasn't able to get her up fast enough where I was driving to test out the OD/LO function.
The A/C doesn't engage for some reason so I'll have to do some digging tommorrow with EFILIVE and see if I can figure out why the ECM isn't commanding the A/C relay(A/C works when I jumpered it).
Heres a pic showing the TCM and you can see the ECM as well tucked in by the drivers side battery tray.
I haven't finished up the airbox yet, so for now the filter is just laying in there.
Another engine bay pic.
And a pic of the front end with my projector headlights. I did have the grill and such on it, but had to take it back off to get to the bolts that hold the drivers battery tray in place.
Hopefully I can get ahold of Brayden before I leave and get his opinion on what to check for the 2 codes and also about low power in 1st as I think it is a torque management issue.
First off the heater return pipe from the heater cores to the lower radiator hose developed a leak in it right at the weld for the retaining arm.
So I'll have to get a new tube for when I get back. Also I have 2 codes that won't go away that I can find no reason for, P0748 and P0778. Also I have very little power in 1st gear and lots of blue smoke if I giver her more than about 20% throttle. This only seems to happen in 1st as 2nd and 3rd pulled VERY strongly. Also my tow/haul mode isn't functioning properly as it gives me VERY hard shifts when engaged and holds them out ridicuously long and provides NO grade braking what so ever. I wasn't able to get her up fast enough where I was driving to test out the OD/LO function.
The A/C doesn't engage for some reason so I'll have to do some digging tommorrow with EFILIVE and see if I can figure out why the ECM isn't commanding the A/C relay(A/C works when I jumpered it).
Heres a pic showing the TCM and you can see the ECM as well tucked in by the drivers side battery tray.
I haven't finished up the airbox yet, so for now the filter is just laying in there.
Another engine bay pic.
And a pic of the front end with my projector headlights. I did have the grill and such on it, but had to take it back off to get to the bolts that hold the drivers battery tray in place.
Hopefully I can get ahold of Brayden before I leave and get his opinion on what to check for the 2 codes and also about low power in 1st as I think it is a torque management issue.
Last edited: