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94 Chevy K2500 6.5 Multiple Codes Present

I'd definitely love to see that! Been contemplating making my own due to how expensive the turbomaster is. Do you happen to know what websites those are that list the components for making one? As far as the turbomaster goes, whether I purchase the turbomaster or make my own, do I just need a boost gauge or do I need a boost and an EGT gauge? I scored a single thermostat housing, dual thermostat upper radiator hose, another part of the k47 airbox, and a pmd today for $75. The pmd has no resistor so I'm gonna throw it on my 94 and put in the number 5 resistor I have and see if the code 36 goes away. No name brand on it, just a bar code and it says Made In USA.
 
Boost gauge for sure. An EGT is a nice edition but it did cause Me a lot of worry for nothing, evertime EGT would get close to 1200 I would panic. found out from War Wagon that these turbos can be run at 1550 for extended periods of time without causing damage to the turbo.
If the exhaust is blowing black smoke, then there is a concern of high EGTs.
 
My exhaust is always blowing black smoke. Not sure why, figure it's probably a bad vacuum pump or something. Wastegate solenoid is good. Would a turbomaster make the black smoke stop?
 
Yes it will, after it is adjusted.
If You have tested Your waste gate actuator and if it holds vacuum I would not tear it apart to perform the steps in the following thread. I would hit the auto salvage and pick up a faulty one that will not hold vacuum. Of course, I have a rough time tearing up a perfectly good component.
here is the instruction for building a turbo master. I did not tear up the WG actuator on My truck, I made my own bracket from some steel that was laying around.

Homemade turbomaster build up

Here is my build of my turbo master. If you do this I cannot recommend enough on the fact of installing a boost gauge with this. It is an absolute must in order to set it correctly First pic is items you will need to buy or acquire ):h 1. 1/4" by 1 1/2 long bolt 2. 1/4" heavy fender...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
Instead of a 1/4" bolt I used a 1/4" battery hold down bolt and drilled a hole through the short end of the L for a washer and a cotter key.
 
Get a boost gauge on there. You do not want to blow a head gasket.
About the max boost My stock system puts out is next to 12 pounds. I do not know how many PSI would be safe but maybe @Jaryd can give You some figures.
I would say that 15 PSI might be pushing it a little.
 
I wouldn’t go no more than 15lbs. If you set it to about 12lbs I bet you’d be happy with It. Does your truck have EGR on it.
 
I think most people say 15 lbs is fine for these trucks. i wouldn’t feel safe running boost at 15lbs on a stock engine very long.

If I’m not mistaken the EGR has vacuum going to it. Easy way to get rid of the EGR is to put a vin F manifolds and gaskets on it.
 
12 PSI is a good place to set it at low altitude. Boost Creep happens at altitude of 8000' to bump it a couple PSI when towing flat out. 14 PSI is the choke point of the GMx turbo. Anything over 14 PSI by a GMx turbo is obtained by heating the air NOT more CFM.

The bad thing about a Turbomaster is it always holds boost where the vac system can back the turbo off when boost isn't needed. This costs MPG and holds heat in the engine. It also can set a code if the boost runs outside a ECM table.

The turbomasters and homemade ones are a half-assed fix to a GMx asthma attack turbo anyway. :p Stall it and drop a big non wastegated turbo on it! No more wastegate to worry about. Lots of side mount turbo's to choose from if you still feel the need to have a wastegate.

If your ECT is under control EGT doesn't matter to this engine. It may matter to other engines, but, your time is better spent watching the ECT as 210 is the limit. Hotter and the rings loose temper and here comes the blowby. Heads crack, blocks crack...
 
My ECT never goes above 180/190. I've never seen it go past that. Most the time it stays between 165 and 180/190. Adding the cold (hot) air intake seemed to help as well as the 9 blade metal fan. Green coolant helps too (Oreilleys special) but it's the green stuff and it keeps that truck cool! I've never had any overheating and so far no visible blow by so fingers crossed it stays that way for awhile.
 
Just so you catch that he is saying if you do a turbomaster, it will bring up egt, which will bring up ect.
Imo yes, you need a boost gauge and and egt gauge. I know many put the egt in the crossover because it’s easy, but properly it should be just just before the turbo flange. Regardless where it is at, it gets used as an early warning system to building heat.

You have to watch the boost gauge when the vacuum control system is gone because what it does normally isn’t what it will always do, and you have to learn when to back off. Getting the boost gauge on there with a working vacuum system is a good idea so you learn what it does in most scenarios and get a feeling for engineered safe zone.

My opinion is keep the vacuum system until you cant afford it. Once you know you are going to get a proper turbo and just waiting for the cash to buy it, IF the pump or other parts die, THEN swap over as cheaper option until you get the real turbo.
If this turrbo works for you and you just need a Little extra umff, then do it but include a proper tune.
 
After I tried the turbo master, I replaced the vacuum pump and kept everything stock. I did not like having boost when it was not needed and, fuel mileage went up about a mile per gallon. Now at 17 if I keep ground speed at about 65. it was between 15 and 16 mpg with the TM.
 
So then the turbomaster brings down fuel mileage? Yeah I think I'll keep the stock vacuum system then. I plan on getting a better turbo at some point anyways. I'm gonna put a resistor in the pmd I got the other day ($10 at a local salvage yard, not gonna complain) and put it on the truck and see if the code 36 goes away. I ordered and received the Dorman #5 and #9 resistors so if I put #5 in, that'll basically take the truck back to stock?
 
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