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88gmctruck's 1999 K2500 L65 cranks but doesn't start.

Ok, here is the current status:

1: Installed brand new PMD, still acts the same as before.
2: Flat towed truck home approx 8 miles, and is now parked level.
3: Checked Fuel Cutoff Solenoid for operation, it functions with 12V+ applied to it.
4: Pulled fuel filter. It's clean, and there was no sediment in the bottom of the filter housing. It is missing the "last ditch screen"
5: Reprimed fuel system @ filter and front bleed.
6: Tried restarting with same result.

I think we are going to go pull all 8 glowplugs, and spin the motor to see if we are getting fuel at the cylinders, and purge any possible air that may have gotten in there.
 
Also try unplugging the CTS, IAT and OS. If it goes back to cranking too smooth with the OS unplugged, then plug it back in and unplug the CPS.
 
88gmctruck said:
I'm assuming we need to pull the upper intake off to easily get to the OS?
Click to expand...

Well when you say easily, then you could say that, but you should be able to get to it just by removing the Turbo power cover. Drivers side might be blocked by upper radiator hose, but might have better access on passenger side. If people can fish out a PMD harness the OS should be no problem.
 
Ok, right now i'm doing a passlock relearn as it seems like it could also be a problem. The security light stays on steady when the key is in the on position, and i'm to believe that it should be turning off 5 seconds after the ignition. After that if nothing works still I'm going to unplug the sensors your suggested.
 
All fuses were tested and none were blown.

Truck has sat with the key on for over 10 mins and the security light has not yet went out.
 
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time?: Yes. How long?: 10 seconds, normally. Right now it barely blinks.
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking?: Yes. What color?: Normal exhaust colored, lightly sooty, smells like burnt #2.
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check?: Maybe, I vaguely remember seeing it.
1i] The SECURITY light does not go out at all with the key in the Run position.

From your checklist, sounds like you were getting drops of fuel to make smoke, but I dont know about this anti theft stuff. If your radio crapped out or didnt install the radio right might cause this??? Have to find someone OBD2 antitheft smart.

Are you at least getting the SES light with the ignition on? The Glow light still only coming on for a second?
 
Do you have an OBDII code reader?

Have a check and see if there's fault codes related to the VATS (or is it passlockII? Can't remember).

You're gonna need a tech II, car code or something similar though....
 
buddy said:
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time?: Yes. How long?: 10 seconds, normally. Right now it barely blinks.
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking?: Yes. What color?: Normal exhaust colored, lightly sooty, smells like burnt #2.
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check?: Maybe, I vaguely remember seeing it.
1i] The SECURITY light does not go out at all with the key in the Run position.

From your checklist, sounds like you were getting drops of fuel to make smoke, but I dont know about this anti theft stuff. If your radio crapped out or didnt install the radio right might cause this??? Have to find someone OBD2 antitheft smart.

Are you at least getting the SES light with the ignition on? The Glow light still only coming on for a second?
Click to expand...
The radio in this truck is a base model, still functions. Aside from that, the theftlock portion of a delco stereo is internal to the stereo itself if it looses power. The SES light, battery light, check gauges, seatbelt, Antilock and Security lights are lit up. Glows are functioning normal (staying on for 10+ seconds).

great white said:
Do you have an OBDII code reader?

Have a check and see if there's fault codes related to the VATS (or is it passlockII? Can't remember).

You're gonna need a tech II, car code or something similar though....
Click to expand...
This truck should have Passlock II. I dont' have a code reader, but I can rent one in town I think.
 
Might be worth your while to pull off the column covers and see if someone has soldered in a resistor. It's an old trick to bypass the system.

Let me see if I can goolge up some info....

Ah, here we go:

http://www.justanswer.com/car/1ffwr-1999-gmc-sierra-i-m-having-issue-security.html

Check ou the "accepted answer". That's pretty much it, in a nutshell.

If someone has done that to the truck, I'd say there are problems elsewhere in the system.

How close are you to Bill Heath's?

He can probably program out the security features for a price....It's just a simple "check box" and a reflash fix.
 
Yeah, I've been reading about the stupid passlock crap awhile now. The thing is that the light is not behaving as a passlock light typically does, since it's staying on steady, not flashing.

I'd hope that it doesn't come to it, but Heath's place is about 3.5 hours west of me.
 
I wonder if the PCM or whatever uses the ESO/FSO to keep the truck from starting. Sounds probable since you seem to be getting drops of fuel. You could try pulling the ESO off like you did before and remove the plunger temporarily or permanently and resinstall the cylinder. The plunger falls right out if you remove the snap ring holding it in. Then the antitheft may not be able to stop it.
 
I'm digging the snap ring pliers out of the toolbox now...

So what is the solenoid between the injector lines, what is it's function? What happens if one of it's two wires has failed?
 
Solenoid between the injector lines?

I'm not picking up what you're layin' down....wait, you mean the one right in the middle of the rotor head?

If so, that's the fuel solenoid, not to be confused with the fuel shutoff.

DSC04260.jpg


Fuel shut off (ESO) is a failsafe in case of engine runaway. It cuts the fuel supply off completely when closed.

Fuel solenoid is what lets the fuel to the injectors, driven by the PMD.
 
buddy said:
Also try unplugging the CTS, IAT and OS. If it goes back to cranking too smooth with the OS unplugged, then plug it back in and unplug the CPS.
Click to expand...

Ok, tried all of that. Quick verification, is the CPS the sensor in the valley directly beneath the upper intake plenum where the boost sensor is located?
 
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