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88gmctruck's 1999 K2500 L65 cranks but doesn't start.

I'm curious what order the solenoids operate in. Fuel enters the IP, then goes to which solenoid (fuel or engine shutoff) then is distributed to the rotors and injectors.

I verified the Fuel shutoff solenoid is operational. When bench tested, the it moves quickly and freely. The plug has ground and 12V with the ignition. I'm thinking that when the PMD was relocated the fuel solenoid wires were stressed and have broken.

Thanks for the passlock bypass info, I've known about the resistor crap to deal with....
 
fuel goes in then gets stopped by the ESO. It goes to transfer pump in the IP and then FS meters fuel to fill the plungers.

What I meant though was that the antitheft may be using your ESO to keep the truck from starting, and if you make it so that the ESO cannot stop fuel the truck may run.
 
I'm assuming it wouldn't use the fuel solenoid (which from my understanding is directly controlled by the PMD).

I know the plunger works on the ESO solenoid, and it's controlled by the PCM. I'm going to instead just jumper 12V and ground directly from the batt to it so i KNOW it's open the entire time.
 
I'm assuming it wouldn't use the fuel solenoid (which from my understanding is directly controlled by the PMD).

I know the plunger works on the ESO solenoid, and it's controlled by the PCM. I'm going to instead just jumper 12V and ground directly from the batt to it so i KNOW it's open the entire time.

There you go, that works too. Unplug it and run power and ground to ESO. Youll get a code for it, but it wont affect anything.

If the antitheft was making the PCM not command fuel injection you would not get any smoke or stuttering of the engine. But a closed ESO could still let some fuel drops out.
 
The more I read, the more I think you're on the right track with the passlock system.

All the class 2 DTC's for the passlock I've looked up will not illuminate the MIL.

I just popped out into the driveway and tried the key in my 98, which has the system. I get the "security" light and then it extinguishes after a few seconds. This is without hte engine running but key on.

If your "security" light is staying on, that's probably where your issue lies.

Let me read up a bit more on the system....but it sounds like there's a componenet communication fault or a loss of password fault...still reading....
 
Alright guys.

1: took the plunger out of the ESO solenoid just to be double sure.
2: before fully seating ESO we ran the lift pump and fuel is making it that far into the IP
3: removed all 8 glowplugs, cranked motor in two rounds of 30seconds each. There is no fuel mist coming out of any of the glowplugs holes.

So, that leaves me thinking...

1: Passlock is screwed up somehow. I do know both ignition keys are a little worn...
2: Fuel Solenoid connection was weakened and finally broke due to moving the harness to the back of the intake.
3: This PMD is also bad.
 
What you describe sounds just like after I messed up the passlock in my wife's 99 burb when I was doing the remote start install. You may try disconnecting both batteries for a period of time and reconnecting - in an attempt to reset the passlock.
 
Another method to see if you are getting fuel to the injectors would be to crack the 4 lines on the Drivers side and crank it will make quite the mess of fuel if you are getting it that far.
 
Alright, a friend of mine found another diagnostic guide for 6.5L trucks here http://www.accuratediesel.com/nostart.html

I have done most of it, and just tried this step:

"Disconnect the PMD (black module on the driver's side of the injection pump about the size of a pack of cards.) Connect a digital voltmeter set to the DC voltage scale with the black lead connected to a good clean engine ground and the red lead touching the terminal connected to the green wire in the PMD connector. Have your helper crank the engine and record voltage observed. It should be roughly 1.2 volts. If this voltage is present, it means that the computer is commanding the PMD and injection pump to deliver fuel - proceed with diagnostics. If the voltage is not present, you have either a wiring or computer issue - obtain a wiring diagram and diagnose."

Key on (no crank) it is showing .03 volts. When it was cranked, it once jumped to 2.3v for about a second, then sat at .5v. The other two times it was cranked it showed between .3-.5v. This tells me the PCM isn't sending the proper signal to the PMD to operate. So I either have a wiring problem, PCM problem or most likely a passlock problem since the light is steady on.

Right now the batteries are disconnected, and I'm going to re-connect them in an attempt to let the passlock reset itself and see if the security light goes out.

On a side note, the glowplugs all look great. They are AC delco plugs, however I'm not sure what model. They say "AC Delco 610" on the top line and "0 100 271 107 10.5v" on the bottom line.
 
I usually go straight to the PMD voltage diagnostics, but no one usually does it. Did you make sure you were on pin A, which is green and not pin C which is also green?

I made this quick reference sheet for myself or others.
 

Attachments

  • PCM-FSD-IP signals.pdf
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I only have 1 green wire, and it was in pin A. This is the diagram for my 99.

80972879.gif


I'm thinking that the PCM must me sending a passlock signal to it. Security light is still on. Anyone else with a passlock equipped truck that can verify the security light going out after the ignition is turned to on, but not started?

Also, any idea on what glowplugs these are?
 
not on the truck, but I dealt with it on the impala. I believe the start up diagnostics are the same, and the security light should go out after a little bit if everything is ok.

BTW, I narrowed down the passlock issue on my car as the ignition switch.
 
Another thought - have you verified that you dont have an aftermarket security system (or remote start) installed? Oddly our 99 had previously had a remote start in it that had been removed. When I installed the one we have now, I had found that someone had already cut & spliced the passlock wires before.
 
Thanks for checking guys. No, there is no evidence of any tampering with the factory wiring.

I did go and pull the passlock module out of the truck. It was a nightmare to get to. It's located under the lowest compartment/cd slot in the dash. I ended up scratching my hands up pretty bad getting to it. I then took the plug for it and pulled it up to the dash area, and will install the resistor hopefully tomorrow after my long day of work/class.

I did turn the key on, no security light with it removed, but it won't work without it obviously.
 
Take a look at the attached diagnostic flow chart. It might help.

I can dig more out of the factory manual if need be.
 

Attachments

  • 2-7-2011 10-53-04 PM.pdf
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To reset the passlock. Turn the key on and wait maybe 5 min or untill the security light goes out,turn the key off,wait 10 sec,turn the key on,and maybe try to start , verify that light is on and wait another 5 min ,keep doing this untill the security light goes out shortly after turning on the key. Very important to wait 10 sec with key off between each key on cycle.
 
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