75' scottsdale longbed swap

[NintendoKD]

Well, I made some progress, I have the water pump mounted onto the cam cover and painted it white "so I can see any leaks" and am all set to place the cam cover on the engine tomorrow. I got a torque converter for three bad th350's which I think is a pretty good deal since I paid nothing for em. I have a member sending me a flexplate, and am looking into getting another member to send me a 6.2 pump with lines for a banks turbo from off of a 7.3. "my other truck" I still need an engine gasket set so I can finish the refresh. I have 500.00 coming in from an sbc install which I'll receive as soon as it's timed and running good, "engine from the truck". Any pointers on setting the timing and fueling on the 6.2 pump? I do know that you have to match the cam and IP gear points torwards each other "which I already did" I also tightened down the new bosch glows, with antisieze. having a hell of a time figuring out how to secure the exhaust manifolds, "which bolts where? game".

 

[NintendoKD]

Hell one of our local mechanics doesnt believe in servicing rear drum brakes. Told me I might as well just save the money on parts and cut the lines now.

great idea, you can just remove them completely, think about how much weight that is and how much faster you can go without them. .............

 

[NintendoKD]

updates

I got some stuff done today, got the flexplate in today, thanks to a generous member. I cleaned the front cover, with a 3m roloc wizz wheel. put the new water pump together and bolted it to the plate, with lock washers and a new gasket. I then painted it white, why you may ask? if there are any leaks "it's a diesel, it's gonna leak" I can easily tell where it's coming from. more on this later. I also cut a piece of plate aluminum and created an egr block-off plate from it so, all I need at this point is gaskets and the pump, and I'm set. once cleaned, the engine gets a nice no gloss white paintjob, for forementioned reasons. when rebuilding the water pump, I used the nuts from the fan studs to remove them, just tighten the nuts against each other then back the one closest to the pump almost off until it can be removed by hand, then do the others using two 1/2 or 13mm wrenches to do this you will be done in no time, and your studs can be re-used. My pump came with everything but new studs, even has mounting for a larger fan. I also performed the clutch fan mod, I just need some silicon to finish.
picture time:

 

[NintendoKD]

so.... when " and I mean when" I get a pump for this thing I am going to set the fuel to just about pinging, "get it to ping, then bring the fuel back up a hair" Then I will use an AF meter, and 5-gas device "sniffer" to set the timing. Then drive, if the power is acceptable, then good, if no, up the fuel a hair, use sniffer to change the timing then go again. The idea is so that least amount of CO/NOX are produced which will show the efficiency of the motor AKA how well the engine is recombining the fuel and air that it has available. This way fuel can be stepped up without any black smoke and optimum efficiency can be reached as well as a good compromise for fuel economy. I also plan o use this method to test some other things.

 

[Jorge6.5]

Very interesting build! Just one thing I noticed is the intercooler you choose to use. It looks very small and could possibly be a restriction. Might want to consider going with a larger cooler, at least 500cfm would work great.