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6.5L TD Motorhome repair/repower

Shit like this can make us question why we do stuff but I bet when you get it back, you'll be glad you went thru this.

I think I read on here or the Diesel Place that Jasper doesn't rebuild the 6.5 anymore, its a completely new engine, not sure of origin but its all brand new.
 
WarWagon said:
Doesn't the warranty start on the "install date" from the installer?
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In this case (and unless there is something different in writing), the start date is most likely either the shipped or received date. If there is a date *in writing* that indicates another date (ex: upon installation and acceptance by the final customer), then the contractual date will apply. In reality, the warantee period is whatever the warrantor decides as long as it is at least the original stated period (ex: 12 months / 12K miles).

Given the lag in delivery to installation times, the best thing to do is confirm the warantee start date *in writing* (letterhead or E-mail) with Peninsular so that there is no confusion / misunderstanding later on.
 
I got a call from Peninsular that the new replacement transmission, injectors (HO) and the correct water pump should have arrived at my installer yesterday. I haven't checked with them yet.

I asked about the warranty and it's to start when the installation is complete and the vehicle is back on the road. I and the installer will email Peninsular when that happens.
 
3bals said:
I got a call from Peninsular that . . . the warranty . . . start when the installation is complete and the vehicle is back on the road. I and the installer will email Peninsular when that happens.
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Recommend to get it in writing. Consider sending an E-mail that recaps the conversation and ask for confirmation of the understanding. Memories fade and the best memory cannot compete with the staying power of dull ink.
 
Merry Christmas Jody. Sorry if I ramped up the angst meter with the warranty comments but at least you now know the deal.

Hope your new year sees you happy in your completed RV.

Pavel
 
X2 on your project successfully finished and enjoying its use. Merry Xmas also.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If you only need vacuum for the A/C, why not go with an electric add on pump. They can be setup to only run when needed, and used to be commonplace on early motorhomes and semis.
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If I go this route, would I wire it to the fan switch, so every time I turn on the fan to move air (heat/ac/defrost) it would come on to move the appropriate louvers?
 
3bals said:
If I go this route, would I wire it to the fan switch, so every time I turn on the fan to move air (heat/ac/defrost) it would come on to move the appropriate louvers?
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No, get the Ford vacuum pump of a 2005 6.0L diesel truck and wire it to ignition on power. The pump is self limiting and turns off at 15" of vacuum, so it only works when needed. Get OE only, Dorman aren't as strong a vacuum.
 
I'll head down to the local Ford stealer tomorrow or Monday, to see if they'll sell one to me.
 
Depending on the cost of OEM, if I cheap out and settle for the aftermarket, I'll probably buy 2 and mount the cheap 1 in an accessible place so it can be easily changed on the road. At this stage, I'm looking for as many trouble free miles as possible.
 
You can always just keep the stock vac pump and change later if you don't like it. If you don't have one then it would be a good time to change.
If you wind up needing stock one I have them $110. Brand new.
 
With the new turbo configuration, I don't need vac for anything other than the heat/ac/vent controls. That's the way it is on my P30 chassis. A vac pump in the stock location is possible and if I go that route, I will put a new one in place. The biggest problem with the stock mounting, is that with the engine in place, it would be difficult to replace a defective pump. Now in all the years I've owned 6.5s and hundreds of thousands of miles driven, I've only had 1 go bad.

Now, here's my theory, without a stock pump to fail, I can delete it from the system, thus using less horse power to turn it (small amount) and I never have to worry about having to replace it, plus use a shorter belt.
 
Do you need a little accumulator tank\parse valve to make that setup work properly?
 
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