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6.5 replacement options

VW_Lupo_TD

VW_Lupo_TD

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looking at buying a high mileage suburban as some might know from reading my WTB thread.

cannot afford to get stranded so my thoughts are to buy a 6.5 longblock that would be a direct replacement and drop it in.

what are my options in terms of stock or custom ? vendors ?
needs to be turn key, delivered to my shop of choice and ready to drop in and never think about it again.

i would just drop the truck off at the shop next time i go on vacation and hope that they are done when i get back.
or god behold send the wife on vacation and do it myself ..... (wrenching is vacation for the soul) ;-)

that brings up anther question - i can fly out to vacation from pretty much any place - would there
be a preferred shop of choice you guys would recommend for such a project ?
need to be able to document the entire project (pics) and be anal about work and willing to
do it right he first time - oh and be experienced and willing to deal with anal and OCD customers ;-)
maybe someone that "builds" these motors already ? Bill Heath once recommended diesel depot,
but since i have been out of the game for a while i am not up to date....

let us put some options and numbers together -
i know you guys have excel spread sheets with everything ready to copy and paste ;-)
 
Nick,

Negative on Diesel Depot they have lost their focus on quality rebuilds, they can when they want to, do a decent job, but after some of the horror stories I've heard of lately you do not want to use them.

If you are interested I can put you in touch with my builder in MS that can do a excellent job of building you an engine from the ground up 3 different engines they have worked for me now gas & Diese,l plus head on my TDI and no complaints at all about their work, small father & son shop that builds many of the race engines running at the track on the Gulf Coast in addition to normal engine builds.
 
would rather stick to a GMT400 chassis - bang / buck goes down after that i believe.

so diesel depot is out. small father and son shop sounds good - what did they charge you for your 6.5 build and to what specs ?
 
i have not found the right suburban yet, so no hurry.
have no more numbers from back in the day - jumped in the pool with my old cell phone in my pocket ;-)
pre droid days where my contacts are saved in my gmail account....

when you get some free time maybe post a write up or send me a PM with your ideal 6.5 build and what those guys would charge to build it.
 
Pepperidge said:
you beat me to it Mike...and that guy is anal about making everything right so he and Nick would be a good match ;)


I'd love to get a 4 wheel steer burb with an LBZ for the wife...well...for myself too...and have them put the 03-07 GMC HD front clip on it as well...
Click to expand...


here it is...GMC truck front end...and quadrasteer

want an LBZ like this in Pewter to match the truck...

[video=youtube;LFZo-D80qzM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=LFZo-D80qzM[/video]
 
Pepperidge said:
you beat me to it Mike...and that guy is anal about making everything right so he and Nick would be a good match ;)


I'd love to get a 4 wheel steer burb with an LBZ for the wife...well...for myself too...and have them put the 03-07 GMC HD front clip on it as well...
Click to expand...

Too funny.
 
VW_Lupo_TD said:
$26k and reserve not met ????

that is just ludicrous ;-)

edit: ok if it did not have issues i would think about it..... ;-)
Click to expand...

Put a set of springs in the rear or take some of the lift off of it. The axle wrap issue is a byproduct of all the torque. I already asked him about the fuel guage issue, and this can be remedied with an updated flash to the ECM. GM programmed it so that if the senders changed to fast or the values went up the guage will go to empty, they changed this later on because of complaints. And trimming the steps is no big deal. Personally I would take the lift off of it and do away with the problems that way.
 
heck...that is only 6 hours from me...too bad it's not 4WS...the lift definitely has to go...wonder what it would take to convert to 4ws...the wife would need that...the 4ws burbs turn with the same radius as a honda civic(so GM claims)
 
BIG bucks to add in 4 wheel steer as far as I know. You'd have to add in teh hydraulic system, rear axle, and all the wiring and controls to make it work. I'm sure Eric could do it as I think he's done a few. He may even have a rear steer system as I think he has taken a few out for the 11.5" rear axle.
 
i thought the lift is mandatory to fit the duramax into that chassis type.
otherwise it will not "clear" the crossmember or something....
 
VW_Lupo_TD said:
i thought the lift is mandatory to fit the duramax into that chassis type.
otherwise it will not "clear" the crossmember or something....
Click to expand...
I believe it only needs a 2" body lift for the Allison. If the 4L80 is retained I don't think it's needed.

Side note on 4WS. I don't think the internals can handle the DMax torque.
 
VW_Lupo_TD said:
i thought the lift is mandatory to fit the duramax into that chassis type.
otherwise it will not "clear" the crossmember or something....
Click to expand...

Eric at DURABURB uses a 2" staggerred lift where it is 2 inches at the front and none at the rear. GM put a 2" body lift on all the 2500HD's and 3500 trucks starting in 01, but the regular 2500, 1500HD, and 1500's did not get it. The reason for it is since the 2500HD/3500's that came with the DURAMAX/ALLISON had a 2" body lift, GM used that extra space for the radiator support to fit a larger radiator and the intercooler along with additional hood clearance for the top of the engine. He tried one without the lift and got everything to clear except the A/C lines, but it was tight and teh radiator didn't fit right either so he now lifts them all.

btfarm said:
I believe it only needs a 2" body lift for the Allison. If the 4L80 is retained I don't think it's needed.

Side note on 4WS. I don't think the internals can handle the DMax torque.
Click to expand...

Running the 4L80E would be a PITA! since he would have to hack in a van wiring harness to make it work like factory as the 4L80E only came behind the 06-08 vans with a DURAMAX. And the ECM setup for the ALLISON will not talk to the T42 GM TCM for the 4L80E. GM purposely made the T42 use a different wiring and comms I think so that a van owner couldn't swap in a truck ECM to get the 365HP instead of 250HP. And he's done a few QUADRASTEER BURBS with the DURAMAX without a problem one. He's got videos out there on youtube of them doing burnouts and all, and has yet to have a problem.
 
Just going by the dicussions from the days when DMaxes were new and GM engineers we saying why the rear steer axle wasn't going to be an option with the HDs because it wouldn't take the torque. Meaning, they didn't want the warranty headache from the PU owners. I thought the 3/4 ton Burbs had a 4L80. Guess not then...
 
VW_Lupo_TD said:
cannot afford to get stranded
Click to expand...

I don't think this is a practical or achievable goal. Even with a new vehicle warranty covers breakdowns. Age and miles after defects cause breakdowns. I suggest AAA or other roadside service, OnStar for better than cell coverage and a good battery and radio for when things go wrong.

Even a good running rig can be towed after hitting an Elk.

I would not start with an old high mile vehicle for reliability. The Duramax crew cabs are night and day reliable over the older trucks. Our broker has some hitting 400K towing trailers. If you need a Suburban the gas engines are cheaper to overhaul and fuel is cheaper. Really you should be looking at new. Otherwise you have a black hole for parts money and some replacement parts are poorly made and hard to find.
 
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