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6.5 replacement options

btfarm said:
Just going by the dicussions from the days when DMaxes were new and GM engineers we saying why the rear steer axle wasn't going to be an option with the HDs because it wouldn't take the torque. Meaning, they didn't want the warranty headache from the PU owners. I thought the 3/4 ton Burbs had a 4L80. Guess not then...
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The 2500 BURBS have a 4L80E trans, but the 4L80E doesn't play well in a stock setting with a DURAMAX unless you go to a van wiring harness.
 
The guy said he had over $70k into the rig and put only 10K miles on it, so you shouldn't be surprised that the reserve was higher than $30K. Frankly, the guy should just keep the rig and use it.
 
WarWagon said:
I don't think this is a practical or achievable goal. Even with a new vehicle warranty covers breakdowns. Age and miles after defects cause breakdowns. I suggest AAA or other roadside service, OnStar for better than cell coverage and a good battery and radio for when things go wrong.

Even a good running rig can be towed after hitting an Elk.

I would not start with an old high mile vehicle for reliability. The Duramax crew cabs are night and day reliable over the older trucks. Our broker has some hitting 400K towing trailers. If you need a Suburban the gas engines are cheaper to overhaul and fuel is cheaper. Really you should be looking at new. Otherwise you have a black hole for parts money and some replacement parts are poorly made and hard to find.
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debbie downer. :)

I think with a 2wd burb from a rust free area, with a fresh motor and trans (with fresh hoses and lines and related of course), and an inspected differential and braking system with a full service on everything ought to be a fine rig that is plenty reliable.

Onstar FMV for the full GM effect/ plan B that hopefully wont need to be used and you are good to go!
Its just a hunk of iron, all it takes is money to make it go! :D there is 1,000,000 mile duramax's and cummins' with all original powertrain, surely a freshly re-powered 6.5L burb ought to be reliable for 300K more?
 
GM Guy said:
debbie downer. :)

I think with a 2wd burb from a rust free area, with a fresh motor and trans (with fresh hoses and lines and related of course), and an inspected differential and braking system with a full service on everything ought to be a fine rig that is plenty reliable.

Onstar FMV for the full GM effect/ plan B that hopefully wont need to be used and you are good to go!
Its just a hunk of iron, all it takes is money to make it go! :D there is 1,000,000 mile duramax's and cummins' with all original powertrain, surely a freshly re-powered 6.5L burb ought to be reliable for 300K more?
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Looks like Corvairwild on here for that fleabay ad.

You know the heater hose that splits on you, the door handle that is breaking, bad fuel, kink in a brand new fuel hose, hub bearings reaching end of life, Wix dmax fuel filters sucking air, 2 year battery life out here, combined with low quality replacement parts... makes for some warranty work on parts you already replaced. Even brand new vehicles have a warranty to cover issues.
 
I kinda figured he was since he said he has 8 of them, plus I saw the boost bolt in there. ;)
 
Find your Burb with a blown engine, pick up a GEP engine from Teds on Ebay, replace all the lines, hoses etc, maybe a new/rebuilt pump and really limit your issues.
 
WarWagon said:
Looks like Corvairwild on here for that fleabay ad.

You know the heater hose that splits on you, the door handle that is breaking, bad fuel, kink in a brand new fuel hose, hub bearings reaching end of life, Wix dmax fuel filters sucking air, 2 year battery life out here, combined with low quality replacement parts... makes for some warranty work on parts you already replaced. Even brand new vehicles have a warranty to cover issues.
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you guys towing in arizona seem to weed out stuff that isnt 95 percent or better. talk about extreme conditions!

also, the hub bearing part, packable and adjustable with the good ol GMT400 2wd! :) does your 2wd duramax have packable like a GMT400, or is it a sealed unit bearing like a 4wd?
 
Surprisingly, there are quite a few 6.5 Burbs to choose from out there. Problem is narrowing down the search to '94 2wd and then it gets real skinny. I don't get his objection to OBD II or 4wd? OBD II provides more information, you just can't get the multi-tune. I'll never understand the 2wd requirement. Might as well buy a gasser 2wd as there are tons of those.
 
Big T said:
I'll never understand the 2wd requirement. Might as well buy a gasser 2wd as there are tons of those.
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In my case it was ride quality & mpg the 2wd has spring suspension in a C1500 vs torsion bar in 4x4, and 2wd mpg on the 3:42 burbs is better than the 3:73/4:10s most common in the 4x4 version. Plus height of the 2wd suits my wife better in/out than the 4x4 being slightly taller; and she who must be obeyed :) says the burb is hers so I did a body swap 4x4 body onto the 2wd frame, vs. a engine trans/swap into the 4x4 frame/body.
 
turbovanman said:
Find your Burb with a blown engine, pick up a GEP engine from Teds on Ebay, replace all the lines, hoses etc, maybe a new/rebuilt pump and really limit your issues.
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New ATT turbo as blown engine can take a turbo with it, cheaper military 6.2 longblock with turbo precups added... Describes my 1995 I got with a blown engine.

GM Guy said:
you guys towing in arizona seem to weed out stuff that isnt 95 percent or better. talk about extreme conditions!

also, the hub bearing part, packable and adjustable with the good ol GMT400 2wd! :) does your 2wd duramax have packable like a GMT400, or is it a sealed unit bearing like a 4wd?
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The 2WD Duramax have the same sealed hub bearings and I think they need to be done with a clicking noise. I am doing a partial front end on it at 130K - usual ideler arm, tie rods, damper. The plus side is longer brake pad life by a factor that defies description.
 
Big T said:
Surprisingly, there are quite a few 6.5 Burbs to choose from out there. Problem is narrowing down the search to '94 2wd and then it gets real skinny. I don't get his objection to OBD II or 4wd? OBD II provides more information, you just can't get the multi-tune. I'll never understand the 2wd requirement. Might as well buy a gasser 2wd as there are tons of those.
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the ride, the wheel track, the lower center of gravity, less parts to wear out and break, and most of all, the oil changes and the fuel economy. I love 2wd oil changes! :)

IMO, if you dont NEED 4wd, 2wd is a much more economical choice. if you need 4wd, then you need 4wd and thats that.
 
WarWagon said:
New ATT turbo as blown engine can take a turbo with it, cheaper military 6.2 longblock with turbo precups added... Describes my 1995 I got with a blown engine.
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What do I look for, need to source another engine, my 6.2 has cracked webs, :(

GM Guy said:
the ride, the wheel track, the lower center of gravity, less parts to wear out and break, and most of all, the oil changes and the fuel economy. I love 2wd oil changes! :)

IMO, if you dont NEED 4wd, 2wd is a much more economical choice. if you need 4wd, then you need 4wd and thats that.
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Exactly, and around where I live, really, 4x4 is a waste unless you do a lot of skiiing.
 
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