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6.5 optimizer swap, blows blue smoke on one side...

Not sure, never checked it that way, but the hoses are rock hard when hot...

I'll check it when I get home and add some water and let it run with cap off, I should get bubbles yes? I'll also grab my block tester and see if it's hydrocarbons...
 
They should be hard when hot... it's very shortly after the first fire up in the day when motor is cold is when you should check ..

A pressure tester isn't a good way to check it, if a gasket is blown it will be pushing pressure out at a much higher psi than the tester ever will..

The most sure way is to remove t-stats, and the belt, start the motor and look inside where the stat is, then you would see bubbles from the side that's blown...
 
If the head,gasket, or block is bad with the engine cold it would get the hoses swelled hard with compression before the water gets hot is the idea. Thats the quickest test. If not conclusive, do what sctrailrider said.

Your compression test/ leakdown test would have told you all this as well when trying to diagnose your smoking problem. Some test tell you many things at once...
 
Ok, the hoses got harder as the temp increased, not from initial firing up. Even after running it to temp after 30 mins, they were very hard, but I could squeeze them a little. Nothing blowing out or bubbling from the coolant bottle...

My compression test and leakdown tests passed, so I thought all was well... What else could explain the "blackness" in the coolant? I went out today and sure enough, what was in my coolant bottle separated... Nice green coolant on top with black at the bottom... A little shake and it completely mixed again...

Oil pressure is 25-30 hot idle, 50-60 cruising, and goes up to 70-80 when cold and driving...

No oil in coolant, no coolant in oil... It starts right up even without glow plugs when its above 70 outside... no hydrolocking or anything... It does not have a trans cooler or oil cooler in my rad either... nv4500 and separate oil cooler in front of radiator...

Tomorrow when i get off work, I will do what sctrailrider said... Ill pull the tstat (just 1) and the belt and see if i get bubbles.
 
Well I pulled the tstat and flushed the system for about 2 hours before it ran clear... Started it up with tstat out and got no bubbles or anything... Buttoned it up, ran it for 45 mins and the hoses just started to get hard at about 160+ degrees... I am running a 16 lb cap... I'm just wondering what and where this black crap is comming from
 
Do us a favor and fill out your signature with info on the truck, would save some questions, like auto, year, etc...

as for the gunk, show me/us a pic....
 
I don't think it's Dexcool issues as I have seen them mixed with the green and you get basically mud . I was wondering about the history of the engine as it almost sounds like a blown cooler in the radiator which would allow the mix he describes .
 
It's a 2011 hmmwv take out 6.5 NA... Went into my 74 jeep j20.
6.5 NA diesel/1995 GM nv4500/ford np205...

radiator is new universal type from summit without oil or tans cooler. Only coolant runs through it. My oil cooler is separate and in front of the radiator. I filled with green the first time and it turned black and now have strait water it...
 
What about removing the block drain plugs ? Do one at a time and see if one side comes out black .
 
Yes , one on each side of the block right by the engine mounts .
 
Will L. said:
Aka freeze plugs or core plugs.
Click to expand...

Yeah, those I am well aware of. I was wondering when the hell GM put pipe plugs in the block waterjackets to drain the block with, like on my old '72 Dodge 360 c.i. Adventure Sport Pickup. Sure as hell would make life simpler for little things like changing heads or a water pump.
 
My 599 block has them, I was going to put in petcocks to allow draining. You can't on the pass. side, starter is in the way, so I didn't bother.
 
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