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4l80e

This is general question to who ever wants to answer. Sticker says 200 HP @ 3400 rpms. Isn't that pretty close to red lining it? Never knew what rpm you could safely run at really..
 
Yup 3,400 is redline for most 6.5.
4,000 is ok if you balance the engine when built. Depending how well it gets built a person go higher.

But if you wanna push for a really long life, 3,000 is a good place to top out.

I should add, many run 3200 often, and still get 250,000-300,000 miles provided good balancer, injectors, etc. but slack on the maintenance and you’re in trouble.
 
I agree with Will about the balancer and injectors. But if you wander away from stock settings and start adding fuel and boost (especially if you don't lower the compression), working it hard from 2k on down will destroy one even faster. As you add more boost, your "working" rpm needs to climb as well.

That said, getting a lot of fuel out of these pumps beyond 3k takes work and money.
 
Yep I have lifted heads on mine running to much boost got better gaskets and arp bolts now and turned it down a little but I like it better with out the electronics it just feels better wish I had done that 20 years ago would have saved me lot of heartache and money
 
You have a 93, not a 94 according to your pics. That makes a HUGE difference as 93 is a db2 mechanical pump from the factory, 94 was an all electronic ds4 injection pump. Mechanical pump engines were 200hp, ds4 S engines were 180, and F engines were 190hp.
 
Fuel leak now at least I made it home from races looking with mirror and light looks like filter housing always something but I love the old truck I have a 2016 dodge but I like the gmc
 
It still bothers me how my transmission works no one can explain it took it to transmission shop they checked pressure and drove the truck and said they can’t explain it either
 
Maybe with just RPM and VSS sensors working , that's enough info for the ECM to operate .
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Without hooking up a TPS to it there is no way it is shifting correctly. It's probably shifting hard because it's in limp mode and running max line pressure and doing limp based shifts. If it's in limp mode I would not drive it. Early 4l80e's are bad about breaking hard parts from high line pressure.
Click to expand...
@THEFERMANATOR is 100% CORRECT about this. Not only because he IS the 4L80E transmission guru on here, but from my own personal experience with my 94 C&C C2500 running in ECM limp mode and max line pressure (unknown to me b/c P.O. had removed the SES light bulb to "hide" dead ECM code) for who knows how many miles before I got the truck and about 4K miles after I got it.

The most vulnerable hard parts in the 94's to max line pressure are the phenolitic plastic apply pistons. In my case, just backing out of a parking stall in reverse on a slight hill and "blipping" the throttle was enough to blow the face out of the Reverse Apply Piston (I am DAMN lucky that I did NOT snap the Reverse Band anchor stud off the inside of the transmission case at the same time, or I would have needed a new transmission case) which left me with no Reverse OR 3rd&OD because of internal pressure leakage. A new ECM and complete HD transmission rebuild and I was on my way again. I wasn't towing at the time, either. Just my C&C C2500 with a Rawson Laning steel Utility box full of tools equipment and a gross vehicle weight of about 8200 lbs with me inside when the transmission blew.

I know that you think "nothing is wrong" with your tranny because it "feels" ok when driving, but heed 'FERM's advice and get a stand-alone TCM with a TPS if you're running a DB2 on that 94. WAY cheaper in the long run than a good rebuild (HD with upgrades) on that 94 4L80E. Remember, denial is not a river in Egypt!
 
I have run these transmissions for years on the track and on the street with manual valve body and had all intentions of putting one in this one but it worked so I didn’t bother but I did take it to Snyder transmission to check it out they said it was ok but I am concerned so I might go a head and put put my valve body in I just hate to turn lock up converter on and off with switch by the way a manual valve body runs what ever pressure the pump will put up
 
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