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4l80e and the differences between years

No, @Tombrewster421, what I said was all the 6.2 and 6.5NA powered vehicles in Army inventory that I had experience with when I got out in '98 had the bullet-proof TH400 in them - be they CUCVs or M993/HMMMV variations - not the POS 4L80E. I have absolutely no idea why they would put the failure-prone 4L80E into the HMMMV family of vehicles, with the EMP/electrical system failure-vunerable TCM, unless it was either due to some under the table kickback to somebody in procurement (possible), some need to get more top end speed (possible) out of them, or better fuel mileage numbers to make logistical support easier in SW Asia (also possible), but from a reliability and maintenance support standpoint it was a poor decision - as @Will L.'s post above bears out.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If it was mine, I would not run a 91-93 trans. I know others do it, but there is quite a few mods that should be done to make a 91-93 trans work properly being controlled by an LS PCM or an aftermarket tcm. The 91-93 trans uses a different epc solenoid as well as a slightly different pressure control circuit. It needs to be upgraded to a 94+ style epc circuit to be controlled by an LS controller or aftermarket controllers.
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Hey THEFERMANATOR, I have a similar setup as the one Lonncarr has. 1991 Suburban 2500 4x4 with OEM 4l80E. I swapped the motor to an LS a couple years ago and I've always had hard shifts sense the swap. I swapped out that solenoid for the 04 but it didn't change anything. It actually shifts nice after the first couple miles of the day. Should have I just swapped the entire valve body? I was unsure at the time if it would even bolt up. I just recently started getting a check engine light but the only code that come up is P1810 TFP switch . That would explain the Harsh shifts except it's shifted harsh for over a year before the code started setting AND it shifted perfect with the 91 ECM.
 
Yamaford said:
Hey THEFERMANATOR, I have a similar setup as the one Lonncarr has. 1991 Suburban 2500 4x4 with OEM 4l80E. I swapped the motor to an LS a couple years ago and I've always had hard shifts sense the swap. I swapped out that solenoid for the 04 but it didn't change anything. It actually shifts nice after the first couple miles of the day. Should have I just swapped the entire valve body? I was unsure at the time if it would even bolt up. I just recently started getting a check engine light but the only code that come up is P1810 TFP switch . That would explain the Harsh shifts except it's shifted harsh for over a year before the code started setting AND it shifted perfect with the 91 ECM.
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It shifts hard because the 91-93 EPC used no internal spring, it used pressure on both sides of the controlled valve to control line pressure. The 94+ EPC uses an internal spring to return the valve to wide open when no current is present. There is an exhaust port you must open to install a 94+ EPC into a 91-93 valve body. Then you have the problem of the 91-93 EPC requiring a cleaning stroke every 10 seconds, if not it can get plugged, and stick. Lastly 91-93's have a line pressure accumulator built into them to slow line pressure changes so you don't get pressure spikes during the cleaning stroke. This accumulator must be blocked.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If it was mine, I would not run a 91-93 trans. I know others do it, but there is quite a few mods that should be done to make a 91-93 trans work properly being controlled by an LS PCM or an aftermarket tcm. The 91-93 trans uses a different epc solenoid as well as a slightly different pressure control circuit. It needs to be upgraded to a 94+ style epc circuit to be controlled by an LS controller or aftermarket controllers.
Click to expand...

Hi, you are obviously the go to guy for knowledge on these 4l80e trans and I was hoping you could help me please?!

I have just bought a 2000 k3500 Sierra 6.5 diesel with a 4l80e 4x4 currently installed with the older cooler line setup so I’m assuming it’s been swapped at some point for an older trans. 94-96 I assume but can’t tell.

Anyway the trans in the truck is not working and I have been given a 93 4l80e 4x4 that I have no history of it but hoping to swap in as a replacement to save money until I can afford a proper replacement just to get it moving again(recommendations appreciated). So at this point I think I’ll need to change the wiring harness to make the 93 trans work on my 2000, 6.5L and the torque converter I’m hoping will swap also but that’s it…any insight from you on what would be required is greatly appreciated, I know you mentioned the circuits are different on the LS but will these old diesel 6.5 work?
 
Got a 2001 Chevy 1500 tht was 6.0 swapped from a 03 2500hd. Just put in a new 4l80e from a 95 k2500. Got everything hooked up and put together. Except my dipstick. Think I need one of those Lokar ones. And the transfer case that came with the trans. The plugs don’t match at all and my old transfer case did fit the transmission shaft. I guess my question is, is there anything I am missing? The truck runs great and like it should. Put a new internal wiring harness and NSS. Also wired in new pigtails for them. I’m assuming my shifting problem is my lack of fluid since my dipstick doesn’t fit. Can anyone confirm? Also, my ignition switch is shot so I have a push button jumping the starter.
 
You are better off having it rebuilt imo. R&R plus rebuild is around $1000-1200. If you do the labor that cuts it near in half but them doing it but them doing the labor means they are responsible for everything if there is any issues later, and no arguments of did you replace or properly clean out cooler& lines.
Once you have to go inside an auto trans to swap some things around- experiment diy jobs almost always come out a second time to figure what wasn’t done right.
 
Will L. said:
You are better off having it rebuilt imo. R&R plus rebuild is around $1000-1200. If you do the labor that cuts it near in half but them doing it but them doing the labor means they are responsible for everything if there is any issues later, and no arguments of did you replace or properly clean out cooler& lines.
Once you have to go inside an auto trans to swap some things around- experiment diy jobs almost always come out a second time to figure what wasn’t done right.
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I concur. I took the 96 in at 300,000 miles plus.
They pulled the trans and rebuilt it twice for about $3,000
With a 3 year unlimited mile warranty.
 
Yeah, back in 2002 I had the 4L80E in my '94, with about 200K miles on it, go completely out (no Reverse, 3 or OD). A local, highly reputable transmission shop (that's still in business today) that was known for its commercial fleet work did a total rebuild with literally everything inside of it replaced/upgraded - heaviest duty clutches/plates available, band, apply pistons, bushing upgrades to bearings, valvebody upgrades, HD torque converter, etc, etc. It was under $2,000 for all parts and labor, including R&R - and it carried an Unlimited Mileage/Time warranty from them as long as I owned the vehicle and changed the transmission fluid every 30K miles. They had rebuilt 4L80Es in commercial trucks with over 300K on their rebuilds still going strong.

Definitely REBUILD, do NOT try to swap across generation build years!
 
Husker6.5 said:
Yeah, back in 2002 I had the 4L80E in my '94, with about 200K miles on it, go completely out (no Reverse, 3 or OD). A local, highly reputable transmission shop (that's still in business today) that was known for its commercial fleet work did a total rebuild with literally everything inside of it replaced/upgraded - heaviest duty clutches/plates available, band, apply pistons, bushing upgrades to bearings, valvebody upgrades, HD torque converter, etc, etc. It was under $2,000 for all parts and labor, including R&R - and it carried an Unlimited Mileage/Time warranty from them as long as I owned the vehicle and changed the transmission fluid every 30K miles. They had rebuilt 4L80Es in commercial trucks with over 300K on their rebuilds still going strong.

Definitely REBUILD, do NOT try to swap across generation build years!
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Thanks for the advice much appreciated
 
@armymechanic63b I see you were a Light Wheel Vehicle Mechanic by your MOS. It's been changed to 91B - Wheeled Vehicle Mechanic since. Which I find interesting because back when I was Enlisted (1979-82, before I Commissioned) I was a 91B - Combat Medic, and the entire 91 Series was all enlisted Medical Skills designations, like a 91C was an LPN, etc.

As an Armor Officer in the Cav, I had 63H - Track Vehicle Repairer, serving under me in the Maintenance Section at Squadron.
 
I'm getting a ticking noise that sounds like engine tap, but it's def the transmission. It comes and goes intermittently. Will fade in and fade out and stop all together then come back. Torque Converter maybe? I don't have 4th gear/overdrive and I'm getting a P0894 transmission component slipping DTC. 2007 Silverado 2500HD Classic 4WD 6.0L. 227,000 miles. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
 
Husker6.5 said:
Short answer, not very easily nor very cheaply. There are differences in input shafts and torque converters, internal harnesses, external plugs and how the ECM and transmission communicate with each other.
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What about one from an '03 Silverado 2500hd 4x4? I found one for $500 with transfer case. I need it to go in my '07 Silverado 2500hd classic 4X4
 
Hello, I have a Fletwood bownder '92 with gm 7.4L and 4l80e wich works bad, In spain is impossible to repair it. I have found a 4l80e from a 2008 chevy express savana, looks like the same, but I don´t know if are interchangeables.

Can someone help me? Thanks!
 
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