• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

2000 GMC 3500 6.5l runs good no power

Td is for teed into the vacuum hoses.
The boost gauge fittings on my truck are drilled into the back side of the upper manifold, the tube portion that the hose from the turbo connects to it.
The fitting can be installed anyplace in the upper intake manifold. Where ever is handiest.
If drilling without removing the upper manifold, be sure to fill the drilling bit with grease to keep shavings from falling into the manifold.
 
Manually shift it. You should have 3rd gear available at 50 MPH. I am not sure why you think it needs to kick down, maybe it does, but the redline is around 3600 RPM on this engine. As noted these engines weren't noted for power, but, "Can't get out of it's own way!"

Smoke from exhaust is critical to know if it's clear or blowing black. (or any other color.) It should be clear on a stock tune climbing the grade.

Again, any codes?

Is the cooling fan screaming by chance? It sucks a LOT of power.

You are "our" eyes and ears. Otherwise we don't know what is going on with it.
 
WarWagon said:
Manually shift it. You should have 3rd gear available at 50 MPH. I am not sure why you think it needs to kick down, maybe it does, but the redline is around 3600 RPM on this engine. As noted these engines weren't noted for power, but, "Can't get out of it's own way!"

Smoke from exhaust is critical to know if it's clear or blowing black. (or any other color.) It should be clear on a stock tune climbing the grade.

Again, any codes?

Is the cooling fan screaming by chance? It sucks a LOT of power.

You are "our" eyes and ears. Otherwise we don't know what is going on with it.
Click to expand...
No smoke, clear, it just seems that it should be able to climb a hill at better than 45mph empty. It won't shift down manually, cable is messed up, I tried. I pulled cable off trans and trans moves through all gears freely. I Have to get to that too. It just seems to me that it should kick down, but this is my first diesel truck. Thanks Mike
 
The shift cable is a good place to start. Not downshifting can be your only problem.

Anything else "out of order" on the truck you know about?
 
There is a reset procedure on that down shift cable.
There is a release tab, pull that tab outwards, then pull the cable sheath away from the mounting bracket. Once that is accomplished, climb in the cab and mash the throttle pedal all the way to the floor.
i think the tab is spring loaded and will retract back in on its own. You might have to press it back in, I jist dont remember, someone here does though.
There now, it is adjusted.
If that cable core is broke, the transmission will not shift down.
If that cable is out of adjustment, it can rapidly burn up the transmission.
 
Whoa pilgrims.
Did you say the turbo shaft has play? Lets revisit that a moment. Multiple pics helps, video helps more.
under performing turbo means not enough air to burn the fuel.

Low power on the hiway ALWAYS has me look at lift pump pressure first causing under fuel out the ip.

I don’t generally look for two issues causing one problem- but if that turbo is not up to snuff and there is no black smoke..?

I would love to see boost pressure and ip inlet fuel pressure along with clear tube on the ip return to see no bubbles and clean fuel flow.
 
I installed. A new lift pump, was thinking not enough fuel to IP, had 5psi with old lift pump, now has about 9psi. Didn't help. Did the clear hose no air, try that too. I'll have to get. A boost gauge and see what that shows, guess it could be a bad turbo? No black smoke. Dosen't seem to smoke at all. Thanks. Mike
 
Will L. said:
Whoa pilgrims.
Did you say the turbo shaft has play? Lets revisit that a moment. Multiple pics helps, video helps more.
under performing turbo means not enough air to burn the fuel.

Low power on the hiway ALWAYS has me look at lift pump pressure first causing under fuel out the ip.

I don’t generally look for two issues causing one problem- but if that turbo is not up to snuff and there is no black smoke..?

I would love to see boost pressure and ip inlet fuel pressure along with clear tube on the ip return to see no bubbles and clean fuel flow.
Click to expand...
There is some shaft play, ill try tomorrow to get some pics
 
MrMarty51 said:
There is a reset procedure on that down shift cable.
There is a release tab, pull that tab outwards, then pull the cable sheath away from the mounting bracket. Once that is accomplished, climb in the cab and mash the throttle pedal all the way to the floor.
i think the tab is spring loaded and will retract back in on its own. You might have to press it back in, I jist dont remember, someone here does though.
There now, it is adjusted.
If that cable core is broke, the transmission will not shift down.
If that cable is out of adjustment, it can rapidly burn up the transmission.
Click to expand...
I only see 1 cable going to transmission, the gear selector cable. PRND321
 
electrodude said:
At the T bleed line on the front of the engine
Click to expand...
Ok. The reason I ask is that bleed line is for draining the water out of the filter housing hopefully before it goes through the filter and into the ip (injection pump). So it is Pre-filter.
Good to see the new LP (Lift Pump) is capable of 9psi, it hits the 8psi minimum. But we don’t know what hat the ip is actually getting after the filter and if the fuel line is deteriorating inside and creating restriction. More than one person here has replaced good ip thinking it was bad when bad fuel hose was the issue. Many more people suffered lost power, mpg, rough running from it. Other than the clear ip return line which will last only a few years and need replacement so you can instantly see issues at a glance-it costs a couple dollars and takes 5 minutes to swap- the rest of the rubber line needs to be sae30r9 to withstand the modern fuel.
my recommendation is to use steel fitting to add a “T” right at the ip inlet. Put a pressure sensor there and permanent mount a pressure gauge in the dash to see while you drive. Not cheap but lost pressure isn’t just instant diagnosis but will keep from wearing out an ip in a hurry. Now that stanandyne is no longer making head and rotor for the ip nor complete ip- you don’t want that getting wiped out early. Keep in mind that 8psi minimum should be at ALL TIMES- like when you are wide open throttle towing up a hill, not just at idle in the garage.

Going with idea you have that 9psi when you were on the freeway running out of power (really think you should test it at ip under load) my next questions after hearing full boost and no smoke w.o.t. At 45 mph-
What is your compression
How are injectors
Timing
 
Will L. said:
Ok. The reason I ask is that bleed line is for draining the water out of the filter housing hopefully before it goes through the filter and into the ip (injection pump). So it is Pre-filter.
Good to see the new LP (Lift Pump) is capable of 9psi, it hits the 8psi minimum. But we don’t know what hat the ip is actually getting after the filter and if the fuel line is deteriorating inside and creating restriction. More than one person here has replaced good ip thinking it was bad when bad fuel hose was the issue. Many more people suffered lost power, mpg, rough running from it. Other than the clear ip return line which will last only a few years and need replacement so you can instantly see issues at a glance-it costs a couple dollars and takes 5 minutes to swap- the rest of the rubber line needs to be sae30r9 to withstand the modern fuel.
my recommendation is to use steel fitting to add a “T” right at the ip inlet. Put a pressure sensor there and permanent mount a pressure gauge in the dash to see while you drive. Not cheap but lost pressure isn’t just instant diagnosis but will keep from wearing out an ip in a hurry. Now that stanandyne is no longer making head and rotor for the ip nor complete ip- you don’t want that getting wiped out early. Keep in mind that 8psi minimum should be at ALL TIMES- like when you are wide open throttle towing up a hill, not just at idle in the garage.

Going with idea you have that 9psi when you were on the freeway running out of power (really think you should test it at ip under load) my next questions after hearing full boost and no smoke w.o.t. At 45 mph-
What is your compression
How are injectors
Timing
Click to expand...
I replaced the hoses under the intake, had a clear hose , thought about air. I have to get a better piece of clear hose , it seemed to get soft when engine got hot. New injectors, timings -0.75 , compresion not sure of, kept getting different results, not great gauges
 
electrodude said:
I replaced the hoses under the intake, had a clear hose , thought about air. I have to get a better piece of clear hose , it seemed to get soft when engine got hot. New injectors, timings -0.75 , compresion not sure of, kept getting different results, not great gauges. With 60k mile hard to believe compression is low.
It did not run when I bought it, Bad lifter collapsed. Which I replaced twice, lol
Click to expand...
 
MrMarty51 said:
There is a reset procedure on that down shift cable.
There is a release tab, pull that tab outwards, then pull the cable sheath away from the mounting bracket. Once that is accomplished, climb in the cab and mash the throttle pedal all the way to the floor.
i think the tab is spring loaded and will retract back in on its own. You might have to press it back in, I jist dont remember, someone here does though.
There now, it is adjusted.
If that cable core is broke, the transmission will not shift down.
If that cable is out of adjustment, it can rapidly burn up the transmission.
Click to expand...
I would have to read up on it again Marty, the shift lever is put through it's motions and the tab is manually pushed back in. At what gear position I can't remember. This just sets things so when the gear selector is in a position the trans is in the same position. I believe all else is PCM controlled.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top