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1994 K3500 extended cab dually

Wax paper from the kitchen. It helps to carry in a greasy part so when she spots you grabbing the wax paper, you go “UH, Oh- guess I can take the paper and this outside instead of on the counter top”.
Taking her supplies isn’t good but when you make it the lessor of two evils...
 
When I did mine, I started in the middle and did not spray the whole thing at one time. I laid the cloth out, then folded half of it back - and then worked my way out.

That headliner adhesive from O’Reilley is pretty good stuff. I also used it to glue some aftermarket seat covers down to my worn out seats. So far it has kept them tight and looking like a full re-upholstery job for over a year and a half.
 
1994ch said:
When I did mine, I started in the middle and did not spray the whole thing at one time. I laid the cloth out, then folded half of it back - and then worked my way out.

That headliner adhesive from O’Reilley is pretty good stuff. I also used it to glue some aftermarket seat covers down to my worn out seats. So far it has kept them tight and looking like a full re-upholstery job for over a year and a half.
Click to expand...
Yeah in hind-sight I also should have bitten off smaller chunks. In his video he laid the fabric down, folded it back halfway and then sprayed that whole half. I would definitely do smaller chunks in the future.
 
The headliner looks better this evening, but still not perfect by any means. Oh well. I wired in the harness for the overhead console and got it and the headliner installed. It doesn’t look too bad once installed. In fact, the darker gray console stands out more than the wrinkles.....oh well. I couldn’t get great overhead pics because the camera on my phone won’t stop shaking at anything over horizontal.

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Am just catching back up on this thread.

About that first batch of headliner spray. I learned a long time ago that for some things there is no substitute for 3M. Experience came from hood insulation adhesive where the shop used some stuff that their supplier swore was just as good as 3M, but less expensive. On the 3'rd go-back (in just a few months) for the insulation starting to peel-off, the shop used 3M. ~20 years and a good 125K miles later, the stuff is still holding :)

But, the one 3M product I would not touch is the clear 'shield' stuff that goes on the front of bus type vehicles (theory is to prevent chips from debris). Have seen too many examples over the past 10 years where the stuff starts to get foggy in about 3 - 4 years (right after the warranty ends) and after 5 years the stuff looks like a permanent dirt magnet which is not cleanable. 3M only stood behind the product up to the warranty's end and let customers eat the expense of removal / replacement after the stuff looked nasty.
 
I have dont the same thing , and went with the ez-tcu . So far its been good, but im still having trouble loosing power to the pcm. I think. Anyway changed the ignition switch and it ran great for a week and cut out for a second today. Lost the speedo. I have a moose jr pump on mine, and love the way it runs now. One more gremlin and may have it down. i am inpired by your work to gut the interior to upgrade the sound deading in the cab. And redo the hvac blend doors. Great work. Sorry for hi jak.
 
It’s all good. It’s fun to hear what others are up to. The power issue sounds frustrating, intermittent problems are the worst. That’s why I wanted to gut all unnecessary wires from this truck - less to wade through in the future during repairs. I don’t think the computer would be causing an issue with your speedo since that just runs through the VSSB.
 
n8in8or said:
The trans is going to be controlled by an Opti Shift.
Click to expand...

FWIW, the tranny should get controlled by a clutch pedal just like any other *real* truck ;)

And as a bonus, with a clutch pedal, the truck gets tow-haul mode and infinitely variable load based shift points for *free* :D

Oh, and better power to the wheels and increased fuel mileage (when not laying-into the throttle) is just gravy :cool:
 
JayTheCPA said:
FWIW, the tranny should get controlled by a clutch pedal just like any other *real* truck ;)

And as a bonus, with a clutch pedal, the truck gets tow-haul mode and infinitely variable load based shift points for *free* :D

Oh, and better power to the wheels and increased fuel mileage (when not laying-into the throttle) is just gravy :cool:
Click to expand...
I do love a "man pedal", don't get me wrong, but in most instances in a truck I usually prefer an auto. Backing up a trailer, especially when trying to make fine adjustments like when putting blocks under the camper tires, is so much easier with an auto. Or taking off with a loaded trailer at a light on a hill, also easier. I got to experience both of those when I had to use the F350 with the ZF5 to pull our camper last year.....of course that was with the underpowered non-turbo 7.3 IDI, so that made it a less than pleasurable experience overall, anyway. On top of that, I like an auto for my 6.5s because I like to be able to build boost at a stop and keep it going at shifts for hooligan things. But really, right now, what I like is for my left knee not to hurt. When we took the IDI camping, my left knee was hurting all weekend. I have arthritis in that knee, so anything I can do to ease the load on it I'm all for right now. Not knocking a manual, just not the best fit for most of my trucks, but I will end up with at least one in the fleet that has a manual I have no doubt.
 
Completely understand the knee part. Life gets us all.

For backing, throw the X-fer in low. That will fix any tall gears. And consider making a front-hub bypass to keep the front hubs from locking if the truck is on hard surfaces.

Toward the Ferd experience, am betting that the ZF5 has the 42 variant with a narrow gear range. Yes, 1'st and reverse are very tall. Rebuild the ZF5 with 460 gasser gears and life will get much better! :) (Hint: ZF5-42 Diesel - 1st: 4.14 / 2nd: 2.37 / 3rd: 1.42 / 4th: Direct / 5th: 0.77 / R: 3.79. | ZF5-42 460 Gas - 1st: 5.72 / 2nd 2.94 / 3rd: 1.61 / 4th: Direct / 5th: 0.76 / R: 5.24) Am suspecting that a ZF5 tranny tear-down thread is about to land in a forum near you :D

Toward boost, I had zero issues with making the Burb scoot. And that was with the ATT, 3.42's, and a NV4500 ;) Only thing I could not sort-out was to get the X-fer in low range which made backing the trailer a pain.


And to the rest of y'all. Sure, choice of transmission is a personal decision. A buddy of mine refused to go slushbox and was forced to buy a Dodge as it was the last truck standing with a hand shaker. He did this until he died a few years ago (at 92 (age, not speed ;) )).
 
Yeah I did the low range thing for backing, and it worked fine as a workaround. And yes, it had the narrow gearset, I do also have a 46- ZF5 that would have the lower gears, but I sold the truck so it's no longer a concern for me. :)

When I was talking about building boost, I'm referring to boosted launches, which I'll be using for drag racing and sled pulling. The slushbox will also assist with the rapid shifts needed for drag racing. And yes, totally a personal decision, there are absolutely merits to both. For most of my trucks, and most of my needs, the auto suits me better.
 
I had removed the rear quarter windows so I could have them professionally tinted. I had to order some 4mm flush rivets from McMaster. Then they could get reinstalled.

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After much scrubbing I got some of the back panels installed. It’s satisfying seeing 25 year old plastic come clean both inside and out and then get put back in place.

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This weekend I’ll be cleaning the carpet and then once that’s installed I can get more of the panels put in place.
 
I have tried quite a few different cleaning products and a grand total of about a half a minutes worth of time scrubbing on plastics and after they dried, they always looked like that dust was just as deeply engrained as it ever was. LOL
Once there was a real old timer GM parts man that was working at the Oriellys store here. I was looking for a product to make the dash board shine and hide that stinking ingrained dust.
I didnt want to use armorall as of all the bad publicity it had gained about breaking down the plastics. He told Me, sort of quietly, to just use some pledge furniture polish, That seems to work pretty good and I have not owned a vehicle for over an extended period of time to see if it damages the plastics. LOL
Maybe this K3500 now in My possession will be the one. LOL
 
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