n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I found it because you had mentioned it before
Super Steer stopped making the braces so I may fab up my own set.
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1994 K3500 extended cab dually
- Thread starter n8in8or
- Start date
Super Steer stopped making the braces so I may fab up my own set.FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
WOW its been a long time and I am sure most all the customer base for that part have long since moved on to something newer.I found it because you had mentioned it before
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
That's probably due to the radiation and water pollution! Mutant gators of the Everglades. Then there's that whole 20' python thing that swallows deer and gators whole.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
There are goats here and there with what looks like Epsteins face creepy indeed..............
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Another week of slow progress.
I decided that all the other steering parts were new so I might as well put the Moog inner tie rod ends and QA1 sleeves from Krovvy on this truck since I was planning on getting an alignment when I get it on the road anyway. I’ll get a set of Mevotech Terrain Tough ends and another set of QA1 sleeves for Krovvy.
I also decided that since I was this far, I might as well relocate the PMD even further away from the engine heat. This seemed like a good spot!
Yep, might as well go mechanical now. I had a DB2 pump on the shelf that I recently grabbed from the junkyard. It was a 93 C3500HD that had a seized engine, but the IP and injectors looked nearly new so I snagged them. I don’t know who did the reman on the pump, but the injectors were actually Stanadyne brand (NOS???) so I don’t think they skimped on the parts, especially since it was a truck someone was making money with.
I turned the fuel screw all the way up, but that is going to be the extent what gets done to this one.......and that should be just fine for a while - better than the stock DS4. Later this summer it should be getting a hot rodded .310 DB2 from @Rockabillyrat .....we’re excited to see what he’s able to come up with!
Then tonight I decided I might as well pop the valve covers - I’d hate to get it on the road and have a rocker button let loose. I have a good set of cast iron rockers so I’m going to install those. This also gives me the opportunity to retorque the head studs and make sure the PO got them fully torqued. I also wanted to make sure the push rods were installed in the correct orientation....And boy am I glad I did! Check out the first push rod I pulled! One end was seriously worn down! I have some good used push rods so I’ll be installing those.
I’ll also be grabbing one of my low mile sets of injectors I have in stock, setting the pop pressure to 1900 psi and then installing those once the install kit shows up. Lots of other stuff to do this weekend, including some interior work.
I decided that all the other steering parts were new so I might as well put the Moog inner tie rod ends and QA1 sleeves from Krovvy on this truck since I was planning on getting an alignment when I get it on the road anyway. I’ll get a set of Mevotech Terrain Tough ends and another set of QA1 sleeves for Krovvy.
I also decided that since I was this far, I might as well relocate the PMD even further away from the engine heat. This seemed like a good spot!
Yep, might as well go mechanical now. I had a DB2 pump on the shelf that I recently grabbed from the junkyard. It was a 93 C3500HD that had a seized engine, but the IP and injectors looked nearly new so I snagged them. I don’t know who did the reman on the pump, but the injectors were actually Stanadyne brand (NOS???) so I don’t think they skimped on the parts, especially since it was a truck someone was making money with.
I turned the fuel screw all the way up, but that is going to be the extent what gets done to this one.......and that should be just fine for a while - better than the stock DS4. Later this summer it should be getting a hot rodded .310 DB2 from @Rockabillyrat .....we’re excited to see what he’s able to come up with!
Then tonight I decided I might as well pop the valve covers - I’d hate to get it on the road and have a rocker button let loose. I have a good set of cast iron rockers so I’m going to install those. This also gives me the opportunity to retorque the head studs and make sure the PO got them fully torqued. I also wanted to make sure the push rods were installed in the correct orientation....And boy am I glad I did! Check out the first push rod I pulled! One end was seriously worn down! I have some good used push rods so I’ll be installing those.
I’ll also be grabbing one of my low mile sets of injectors I have in stock, setting the pop pressure to 1900 psi and then installing those once the install kit shows up. Lots of other stuff to do this weekend, including some interior work.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Good save on that push rod- that was gonna fail soon!
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
You recall which cylinder the bad push rod was found?
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
It was number 2.
When I removed all of them I found that all of the driver side ones looked good and you could still see the copper color on the ball. However the passenger side was a mish mash of older push rods.
When I removed all of them I found that all of the driver side ones looked good and you could still see the copper color on the ball. However the passenger side was a mish mash of older push rods.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Well as usual, 1 step forward, 5 steps back. After retorquing the head studs I was wiping everything off and inspecting it. This is the point where my day, and the coming days, changed. I found bad valve stem tips on 7 of the 16 valves. Damn.
Ok. I have yanked heads in the frame before and it sucks. And after seeing this now I’m even more curious of what surprises may be lurking inside this engine, so out came everything. I started dropping the transfer case and was struggling with clearance around the torsion bar crossmember so I decided to leave it bolted on and pull everything as a unit. To make things easier I removed the last few bolts holding the hood, fender and core support in place. It was a little more cumbersome with the t-case hanging on the end, but I got it out and didn’t have to do any benchpressing.
So then it was tear down time. Off came the heads and I found good news: no cracks. Cool!
Flip it over and remove the oil pan. Hose it off with brake parts cleaner. No cracks. Cool! But there was rust. Hmmm. Then flip it back over and inspect the cylinders. A few cylinders are bad. I’m not even sure a bore job would fix them. Damn.
So now I’m making a plan forward. Luckily I have a couple short blocks I can bolt in, so I just need to decide which one and what I want (and can afford) to do to it. Krovvy took a lot of my spare cash and the stuff I’ve had to do to this truck so far took about all the rest, so I need to be smart about my next steps. More to come as I figure out next steps.
Ok. I have yanked heads in the frame before and it sucks. And after seeing this now I’m even more curious of what surprises may be lurking inside this engine, so out came everything. I started dropping the transfer case and was struggling with clearance around the torsion bar crossmember so I decided to leave it bolted on and pull everything as a unit. To make things easier I removed the last few bolts holding the hood, fender and core support in place. It was a little more cumbersome with the t-case hanging on the end, but I got it out and didn’t have to do any benchpressing.
So then it was tear down time. Off came the heads and I found good news: no cracks. Cool!
Flip it over and remove the oil pan. Hose it off with brake parts cleaner. No cracks. Cool! But there was rust. Hmmm. Then flip it back over and inspect the cylinders. A few cylinders are bad. I’m not even sure a bore job would fix them. Damn.
So now I’m making a plan forward. Luckily I have a couple short blocks I can bolt in, so I just need to decide which one and what I want (and can afford) to do to it. Krovvy took a lot of my spare cash and the stuff I’ve had to do to this truck so far took about all the rest, so I need to be smart about my next steps. More to come as I figure out next steps.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
DANG!!!!
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Run it till it blows?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Sometimes ya get the shaft instead of the gold. I wonder how bad the compression would be and how much a bottle of restore would help those cylinders.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I was thinking cylinder sleeves.........
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
I was too, but is the expense worth it?
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
His decision for sure and we know he has a good collection of 6.5td parts too...
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I’d hate for it to blow towing a trailer hundreds of miles from home. I’m fortunate to have a supply of parts now and don’t have to put myself in that position
Does that stuff actually work? I’m not going to try it on this, just wondering.
I’m going to save the block since it’s crack-free. I have a couple blocks now that don’t have cracks, but have bad cylinders. I’d like to try a sleeved block sometime, maybe even sleeve a 6.5 down to a 6.2 to see if it makes for an extra strong block.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Slim told me his truck had 3 cylinders sleeved.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
At times I see military surplus 6.2/6.5 cylinder sleeves but I don't think the sleeves are the price issue just the machining....I am sure you will do a nice rebuild and give the truck another 2 or more decades.......
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes the restore actually works. How much it can recover...haven’t seen anything on that.
The cost of sleeve for all 8 sounds painful. If a guy had his own machine equipment it would make all the difference. Labor cost is usually the worst part of it. Yes going to a 6.2 would be better to fight the cylinder cracking issues, but I would base it on what pistons a person already has or what cost new pistons and sleeves can be had for. Around here $75 per hole punched was cost, but buy 7 get 1 free so long as the same engine! Haha
We know enough now that cracking the cylinder walls is avoidable by not letting heat get out of control. Most people that crack cylinders now are folks that don’t understand 210 means take drastic action and at 220 you stop the truck and fight the zombies if you want to keep that engine. Still boat loads of people think the metal can withstand 230,240, and up. SMH. The balance flow waterpump is still argued, and I understand it- so if a person want the 4 bolt pump, that’s fine just invest in a couple more temp gauges and live by which one is higher at the moment.
The cost of sleeve for all 8 sounds painful. If a guy had his own machine equipment it would make all the difference. Labor cost is usually the worst part of it. Yes going to a 6.2 would be better to fight the cylinder cracking issues, but I would base it on what pistons a person already has or what cost new pistons and sleeves can be had for. Around here $75 per hole punched was cost, but buy 7 get 1 free so long as the same engine! Haha
We know enough now that cracking the cylinder walls is avoidable by not letting heat get out of control. Most people that crack cylinders now are folks that don’t understand 210 means take drastic action and at 220 you stop the truck and fight the zombies if you want to keep that engine. Still boat loads of people think the metal can withstand 230,240, and up. SMH. The balance flow waterpump is still argued, and I understand it- so if a person want the 4 bolt pump, that’s fine just invest in a couple more temp gauges and live by which one is higher at the moment.