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1994 Chevy suburban 6.5TD
- Thread starter seza
- Start date
Right guys - I am slowly getting up to speed on all of these thanks to you:
1. just to recap the vehicle is a 1994 burban K1500 4x4 with 5stud wheels, 10bolt axle and 3.73 gear ratio
VIN1: 1GNFK16K3RJ424774 (this vehicle which was gaser 5.7L)
VIN2: 1GTHK33F5TF009115 (donor motor: 6.5TD, possibly auto tranny box, two doors and may other bits n pieces)
2. here couple of pics showing the damage to the crown wheel and the damaged cover plate along with the two brocken pieces
3. to answer your q's:
Missy, there is a cable/pipe on the right hand side of the tranny, am not sure if it is a cable or a pipe
BO, my mistake with regard to the VIN (of the donor motor).
Where do I go from here? am not sure ... I would like to "upgrade" the axle to a more sturdy 12 or 14bolt one, is that possible?
am I right in thinking that Iwill need new axle for that? it is unlikely that I will find one here in the UK so my other plan is to rebuild
my existing axle - in that case I will need the kit from you Burning Oil - the problem there is going to be shipping from US to the UK,
that is always a killer.
Anway guys, I will welcome any suggestions, ideas, do's don't's ...
many thanks
1. just to recap the vehicle is a 1994 burban K1500 4x4 with 5stud wheels, 10bolt axle and 3.73 gear ratio
VIN1: 1GNFK16K3RJ424774 (this vehicle which was gaser 5.7L)
VIN2: 1GTHK33F5TF009115 (donor motor: 6.5TD, possibly auto tranny box, two doors and may other bits n pieces)
2. here couple of pics showing the damage to the crown wheel and the damaged cover plate along with the two brocken pieces
3. to answer your q's:
Missy, there is a cable/pipe on the right hand side of the tranny, am not sure if it is a cable or a pipe
BO, my mistake with regard to the VIN (of the donor motor).
Where do I go from here? am not sure ... I would like to "upgrade" the axle to a more sturdy 12 or 14bolt one, is that possible?
am I right in thinking that Iwill need new axle for that? it is unlikely that I will find one here in the UK so my other plan is to rebuild
my existing axle - in that case I will need the kit from you Burning Oil - the problem there is going to be shipping from US to the UK,
that is always a killer.
Anway guys, I will welcome any suggestions, ideas, do's don't's ...
many thanks
NVW
Well-Known Member
I had a steering shaft sent from the UK for about $50 US, it was for a Fordson tractor. A ring gear shouldn't be much more.
I'll check on the parts later tonight. You should be able to weld up that hole in the cover.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
A 10 bolt ring and pinion is an easy score and fairly cheap too.
Did we ever figure out just what tranny is in the beast.
Post a Picc'y of of tranny pan taken from the RH side if you can. Show the side of the tranny too if possible.
Swapping out a gear set is not all that hard.
Most good shop manuals can give you a pretty good run down on that job.
Remove the cap bolts (mark the caps) pry the carrier out and then remove the pinion nut.
The bearings must be pulled off the Old pinion and the shims kept in Order.
Look at the engraved number such as + ####or ??? on the end of the pinion and compare these to the new set that you get.
Fromm this point you can adjust the shims to get the pinion depth correct for the new gear set.
Install things without the crush sleeve and seal for testing with dye on the gears to make sure you get the settings right. Once things are good to go, you can install the crush sleeve and seal and tighten the nut to crush the sleeve and get the bearing preload right.
Wash everything up really good and check the bearings. You may be able to reuse them.
If the gears did not chew up the broken gear teeth then a good wash out and cleaning and it should be fine.
This is not a full step by step but, should get you going in the right direction.
Missy
Did we ever figure out just what tranny is in the beast.
Post a Picc'y of of tranny pan taken from the RH side if you can. Show the side of the tranny too if possible.
Swapping out a gear set is not all that hard.
Most good shop manuals can give you a pretty good run down on that job.
Remove the cap bolts (mark the caps) pry the carrier out and then remove the pinion nut.
The bearings must be pulled off the Old pinion and the shims kept in Order.
Look at the engraved number such as + ####or ??? on the end of the pinion and compare these to the new set that you get.
Fromm this point you can adjust the shims to get the pinion depth correct for the new gear set.
Install things without the crush sleeve and seal for testing with dye on the gears to make sure you get the settings right. Once things are good to go, you can install the crush sleeve and seal and tighten the nut to crush the sleeve and get the bearing preload right.
Wash everything up really good and check the bearings. You may be able to reuse them.
If the gears did not chew up the broken gear teeth then a good wash out and cleaning and it should be fine.
This is not a full step by step but, should get you going in the right direction.
Missy
Thanks Missy, so you suggest it's best to rebuild what I have?
for a typical job like this what should I order? is there a set kit that can be ordered?
It is dificult getting hold of workshop manual here in the UK, do you know of a good downloadable version somewhere?
Greetings from a dark cold evening just west of London.
for a typical job like this what should I order? is there a set kit that can be ordered?
It is dificult getting hold of workshop manual here in the UK, do you know of a good downloadable version somewhere?
Greetings from a dark cold evening just west of London.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
EBAY is the ticket. I just looked and there are many listings. Just be sure of the gear ratio that you have.
The label in the glove box should tell what ratio is in the truck. If not just look on the ring gear, or count the teeth on the ring and divide by the teeth on them pinion.
1/2 ton rigs are usually 3.73 or maybe 3.42
If this is a 4x4 then you must have the same ratio. if its a two wheel drive its not a biggy
I would stay with the same ratio.
Do a search and scare up a mid 90's shop manual on Ebay too
Here is an ebay auction for the book you need 160648682601
This is the same book that I have and its the best you can get.
You can get a nice aftermarket gear set online and have it shipped to your door.
The GM factory manuals give all the right stuff on changing a gear set out and getting it right.
The label in the glove box should tell what ratio is in the truck. If not just look on the ring gear, or count the teeth on the ring and divide by the teeth on them pinion.
1/2 ton rigs are usually 3.73 or maybe 3.42
If this is a 4x4 then you must have the same ratio. if its a two wheel drive its not a biggy
I would stay with the same ratio.
Do a search and scare up a mid 90's shop manual on Ebay too
Here is an ebay auction for the book you need 160648682601
This is the same book that I have and its the best you can get.
You can get a nice aftermarket gear set online and have it shipped to your door.
The GM factory manuals give all the right stuff on changing a gear set out and getting it right.
if you decide to swap to 12/14 bolt, you will need to change wheels. the front/rear won't match, need two spares then. rebuild what you have, better in the long run. dial indicator needed. any machine shop should be able to help, they have all the tools.