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1994 Chevy suburban 6.5TD

Make sure it is diesel rated oil, synthetic or not.

Great pictures, it is an interesting combo, PO must have spent a lot of money on it.
94 with a 96 engines and DB2 IP.
 
Passenger side front of the block look for a "6.2 GM" or a "6.5 GM" You will be looking by the alternator and water pump for this casting number. These engine are very close in design but not quite identical twins.

The oil filler cap is from a ~1980's vintage 6.2 engine.

Look at your oil pressure sensor on the back driver's side of the block. Look for leaks from it or the threads. Cam plug or, yes, rear main also can show up here. You need to check the amount of blowby the engine has and the CDR setup and function. This could help stop a leak.

The trans may or may not be a 4L80E with the gas to diesel conversion. Foam may be from a leaking filter seal. This is not normal and maybe a trans shop can help. Do you get a cold reading just after starting the engine that is on the cold line? If it is overfilled it will foam the oil.
 
The trans may or may not be a 4L80E with the gas to diesel conversion.

This is true, with the new info that it was a conversion it could be anything. Try and get a picture of pass side of trans at the cooler lines area.
 
Thanks guys,
WW, yes I found a number on the drivers side between the injectors it is: 10137567 - is this the casting number?
BO, I looked again at that mysterious black box, I am none the wiser as the wires from it went into looms front and back of engine that are hard to trace,
but what I can tell you is the wire sockets are labeled as follow: top left ---> +C, lower left ---> GBRE, brown socked on right ---> P.N,

here few more pics inc both sides of the trans box from below.

trans-side-view1.jpg trans-side-view2.jpg
oil cap.jpg black box.jpg
 
I think the oil cap looks cool for some reason?
The sensor, I can't tell what it is.
How many trans pan bolts are there.
 
Well, the engine now is least of my worries, I've just noticed a major oil leak from the rear diff,
I must admit, the diff box always looked oily but first time I noticed the oil is dripping,
what do I have here? is it a know issue? bear in mind I have a 4x4

thanks

leaky diff.jpg
 
Is the clean area washed clean or did you clean it up? If it is washed clean you have a crack in the cover.
 
NVM, No, I've never touch it,
when I saw that I thought the same, but it seem to be more cracks in the paint because I have the same patern all over the axle,
I can't be sure.
 
I would remove the cover and clean it up and inspect it. A new gasket can be made with RTV or silicon sealer.
 
Thanks,
I have not heard any noises coming from the diff, are you aware of any common issues related to diff?
 
Bad news guys,
the leak was due to a hole cause by a flying piece from the one of the tooth on the main wheel,
in fact two of them broke.
what has caused it? it is easy to remove/replace

I'd appreciate a quick answer

thanks
 
Could have been a shock load on it while towing or 4x4ing???

Its not to hard of a job if you have the right tools. Don't know how available a new ring gear and pinion will be for you. If you have trouble let me know and I'll see what my suppliers offer. What gear ratio do you have? I would recomend you get the whole axle rebuilt with new bearings also.
I have done two ring gears in these trucks and they are not to hard but you will need a dial indicator. A shop manual will be very helpful also.
 
thanks - BO,
how do I find out the gear ratio? I've looked for signs and plates on axle to no avail?
 
You can run the VIN# but I can't remember the web site, something like compine.com??? maybe someone can confirm.
You also should have an option code list in the glove box. Speaking of "glove box" what do ya'll call them in England?
 
Thanks marty.

Seza, I tried to run the vin you gave above 1GTHK33F5VTF009115, but its 18 digits? Needs to be only 17
 
That rear axles sure looks like a 10 bolt (1/2 ton)

My next question is, does the tranny have a cable running to it on the RH side near the front.

If this was a gasser and a 1/2 ton then there is a very real reason to believe that the truck may have had a 700R4 swapped into it.

The truck would have come with a 4L60E (electronic version of the 700R) and whoever did the swap could have easily installed a regular 700R to get around the need for the computer and the hastle of the electronics when doing the conversion to a DB2 injection.

There are several unanswered ????? here.

Missy
 
Wow, this rig looks like it was built out of several donors.. Definately some time invested with all the swapping.
 
Hey missy I looked right at that also and thought 10 bolt in my mind, you are correct it is. Funny how the mind works.
So I have to eat some words, I have not changed the gears on one of those and not sure whats involved. I can still get the parts for it just need the ratio, ring gear size, vin.
 
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