• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

1978 Nomad Trailer Restoration/Project: 88GMCtruck is at it again.

Great work. Wished I was as motivated as you. I have a 1987 Playmore that needs some work done to it and I just can't get motivated in this hot weather. Plus with mowing and keeping up two places its killing my pleasure time.
 
Yeah, right now the motivation is high since this is my first trailer and I have 2 weeks off work and school starting in august, so I want to take advantage of that. Plus I'm having fun with it.
 
Good looking work!! You've got more ambition than me. I've been in some form of woodworking or residential construction all my life and can't get very enthused about doing what you are.

Those mirrors are identical to what was on my 94 that I got this winter. They extend better/further out than any other mirror I have ever used. The only drawback is I can't see my rear tires when backing up, which has got me in trouble a couple times. My solution was to go down to Brattain International and buy a couple 5" big rig spot mirrors and install. Problem fixed!

Don
 
Well, I got the truck all wired up. I wired in a relay to power the trailer's running lights instead of using the trucks circuit. I've honestly burned up two headlamp switches towing my dad's flat trailer prior to it being converted to LED, so this will eliminate future problems. I also wired in a switch and relay for the backup lights and ran wiring to the 7-way plug, and left a pigtail for adding backup lights on the rear of the truck. I had some at one point but took them off when I rebuilt the hitch. Anyway, I got this all done and gave the trailer a tug around the neighborhood. First thing is first, towing mirrors are great. I need to grab some convex mirrors for them still but SO much better, I can actually see down the side of the trailer.

And the bad news. Found out the trailer brake controller is no more. It knows the trailer is connected to the truck, but it doesn't actually engage the brakes. I've tested the controller, and it's not sending power to the plug when you press the pedal. All circuits are wired correctly as the controller knows the trailer is there. So I guess time to find another one.

Tomorrow I'm putting part of the trailer back together, and fixing the stud by the door. The goal is to take it out this weekend!!!
 
It is an inertial controller, David. It won't send power to the trailer brakes while you're sitting still, unless you press the pad on the controller with your hand.

It will work when you're moving... here is a webpage that has your controller listed about half-way down...

http://www.campertrailers.org/brake_controllers.htm

AccuPower AccuTrac
accupower_accuarac.JPG


The AccuTrac is an inertia activated brake controller. The AccuTrac is especially suited for constantly changing load conditions as. The dual action slide controls allow customized stopping power both in town and on the highway. It features dual brake action setting controls, solid state electronics, easy to set up and adjust, positive LED indicator confirms brake connection.



 
Thanks for looking up some info Jim. I know it's an interita based controller, but it doesn't work at all. I tried the manual control and it does nothing, moving or not. I tried stopping softly, tried stopping quickly, both with the pedal and manual control and still nothing. I have the manual and the controller is set correctly, it just must be toast. I know that it was in my truck years ago when grandpa still had it, and otherwise has been sitting in a box. I never used it prior to this. I also know that it doesn't have circuit protection if something shorts out (including if the emergency brake pin gets pulled on the trailer), so maybe that was the culprit at one point.

I tested the circuits. I can ground out the "brake" wire with a test light and the controller lights green, this indicates the trailer is connected. It also lights when the trailer is connected. However, when you press the brake or the manual control, the light is supposed to turn red and in theory, the test light should turn on. It doesn't do anything, just stays green.

I do plan to tow it this weekend, and I did find a used Tekonsha Primus IQ on craigslist for $50, so I'll probably pick that one up. It's a proportional controller, doesn't need to be mounted level and also has a LED display. Should work out.
 
Did you test it moving with the trailer connected? It won't send any voltage down the blue wire without being hooked up.

If the sensitivity controls are set right (you set it to level and calibrate the unit), the touch pad will activate the brakes when sitting still. But my old tekonsha won't do that unless it's set right.

Usually with those, if the lights go on, it works. They're solid state, so they don't usually die a little...

Anyway, sounds like you're on top of it. Was just hoping to save you a few bucks.
 
are you sure the brakes on the trailer are working right? If the light comes on to say your connected there shouldn't be anything wrong with it.

I think I have an extra controller in my garage you could have for free. I'll go check.
 
0722101153-00.jpg

Take your pick....they aren't the greatest, but can get you by for awhile if you wanted.

One is a Journey HD, the other is a Redline TA1200. Both were working when removed from their vehicles about a year ago. I can tell you which wire goes where if you needed.
 
Did you test it moving with the trailer connected? It won't send any voltage down the blue wire without being hooked up.

If the sensitivity controls are set right (you set it to level and calibrate the unit), the touch pad will activate the brakes when sitting still. But my old tekonsha won't do that unless it's set right.

Usually with those, if the lights go on, it works. They're solid state, so they don't usually die a little...

Anyway, sounds like you're on top of it. Was just hoping to save you a few bucks.

Yeah, even with the trailer hooked up I haven't seen any voltage on the blue wire, no matter what speed I'm at, how fast I try and stop, or if I use the manual control vs. the pedal. I had a peak under the trailer, and the wires are all hooked up at the brakes, the magnets looked fine when I had the drums off. Since the controller turns green when the trailer's plugged in, the circuit is complete to the brakes, at least in theory. I just cant get the controller to send power to them, no matter how I try.

are you sure the brakes on the trailer are working right? If the light comes on to say your connected there shouldn't be anything wrong with it.

I think I have an extra controller in my garage you could have for free. I'll go check.

View attachment 15368

Take your pick....they aren't the greatest, but can get you by for awhile if you wanted.

One is a Journey HD, the other is a Redline TA1200. Both were working when removed from their vehicles about a year ago. I can tell you which wire goes where if you needed.

Mike, thanks for the offer. If this Tekonsha in Moscow doesn't work out I'll let you know, as I do need one for this weekend. I don't mind paying for that Tekonsha Primus IQ I found in Moscow as it's a pretty good controller and i'll need one of my own anyway. Plus it has a quick bracket and plug so I can swap it between vehicles if I wanted to in the future, assuming I ever get a hitch for the 02.
 
Realized that I didn't have any pictures with the truck attached. Snapped a few this morning. I think the truck and trailer aren't very proportional....

0ebabe8b.jpg

76034f08.jpg

a9b6f38f.jpg


Oh, and if I didn't have a stepside, I'd hit the front overhang of the trailer while at full lock cornering. It's amazing how short the tongue is on this thing.
 
Yes, I know, canopy. It's on from last weekend's trip, haven't had a chance to take it off but I will before this weekend.
 
Btfarm Thanks for the welcome.

88GMCtruck thanks for your response and offer to help with the questions I may have on my 76 Nomad.

I will be starting on my project as soon as I get the title taken care of (filing for lost title) I have all of the junk out of it and have it pressure washed now but do not want to go much further except to dismantle the interior to get ready to replace the flooring and wall studs that are rotten. Should be a fun project!
 
Oh no, another who hates shells? I swear my wife gets giddy when I take ours off. She says it's not a real truck when the shell is on.

It's the funky stepside canopy that throws me off. I think Brandon's looks le'tits with the canopy on, like some giant pissed off Suburban.
 
If you take the cap off you can get a wheeler carrier like Chevylover has.. That would be purty sweet setup.....
 
Oh no, another who hates shells? I swear my wife gets giddy when I take ours off. She says it's not a real truck when the shell is on.

It's the funky stepside canopy that throws me off. I think Brandon's looks le'tits with the canopy on, like some giant pissed off Suburban.

If you take the cap off you can get a wheeler carrier like Chevylover has.. That would be purty sweet setup.....

I'm not AGAINST canopys, but honestly I hate having mine on. I mean, it's a very nice Leer and everything, but first off as Devin said, it's funky. The second thing, it's a royal pain to see backing up, even more-so now with the trailer. The angled portions where the canopy flares out to meet the bed are obnoxious and create a gigantic blind spot. The only reason it was on was from tent camping last weekend and it will be coming back off today. As far as having a carrier in the back, probably not going to happen because you need toys in-order to use one of those. Now if I wanted to I could take the toolbox out and put the GSXR in the back. But that just sounds like hassle to me.

Btfarm Thanks for the welcome.

88GMCtruck thanks for your response and offer to help with the questions I may have on my 76 Nomad.

I will be starting on my project as soon as I get the title taken care of (filing for lost title) I have all of the junk out of it and have it pressure washed now but do not want to go much further except to dismantle the interior to get ready to replace the flooring and wall studs that are rotten. Should be a fun project!

Let me know when you get yours started, I'd love to see more pictures. Curious, how bad is your sub-floors? Can you walk on them or are they well beyond that like mine?

-------------------------------

Anyway, I picked up that Tekonsha Primus IQ last night for $60. Wired it in and viola, trailer brakes work. And the work very well. We have a nice 8-9% grade right by my house, after adjusting it went down that hill and the trailer alone can slow the truck down. So I'm beyond happy with that.

Also got the water system hooked back up. After disassembling and cleaning the gaskets, the pump no longer leaks and the one hot water line is good now that I re-flared the end of it. The only water system problem as of now is the hot water side of the faucet needs a new o-ring.

After getting the tank filled I gave her a tug to town. Drove through a variety of conditions, very windy 60MPH highway, tight alleys, downtown, etc and it tows nice. With the tank full I get no sway, even if I try to induce sway the trailer straightens right out. So good news is I don't need to buy another hitch that has provision for sway control. And the proportional brake controller does a great job, I hardly know the trailer is there when stopping.

No class today, just about headed out there to replace the 2x4 stud by the door, and start putting some furniture back in!
 
Back
Top