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1969 IH 1300D 4X4 - Pump Truck

Got the brake leak figured out, just forgot to tighten the line up:
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Working on tuning the Mustang and ordering some parts so progress has been slow!
 
Trying to find the correct carb rebuild kit that isn't an arm and a leg. Looking to go ethanol tolerant as well for piece of mind.
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Smart move fighting the corn juice for the carb rebuild kit- part of tolerant of modern gas vs what that rig had is the also loss of leaded fuel. Do some reading and you’re gonna find info on head work. The exhaust valves need inserts and new valves. Without using an additive they will burn up.
 
Yeah, if you don't run a Lead Substitute additive EVERY time you fuel, or have hardened exhaust valve seats installed in the heads and unleaded-tolerant (usually stainless) exhaust valves installed at the same time, the exhaust valves will pound the crap out of the seats causing the seats to erode away, the valve lip to bend and you will wind up with the exhaust valves sunk into the head, not sealing, and the valve stem tips at all different heights. The end result is an engine that runs like shit IF it can make enough vacuum to start and idle - all within a few thousand miles of being put into service.

I know this from experience of having a reputable machine shop that did the head work on my 1971 truck 350-based large journal 327 build, after telling them that it would be running on unleaded, NOT install hardened valve seats when they rebuilt my heads and sent them back to my builder - who didn't catch the omission, either. Within 15,000 miles I had a non-running boat anchor for a motor in my conversion van.
 
As old and tired as that Holley 2-bbl is, you can buy a brand new 2300 Series 350CFM or 500CFM 2-bbl manual choke carburetor that is fully ethanol compatible for about $375 to $425 from Speedway Motors. Personally, I have always hated the leaky, hard to tune, crappy accelerator pump Holley carbs since high school back in the '70's. Give me a dependable Rochester 2-bbl or Quadrajet every time!
 
I bet when this thing was on the foundry they ran unleaded in it. It definitely has some smoke on start, I'm sure its in dire need of at least a valve job. Not a fogger by any means, might get worse as I drive it more. Will look into additives. I bet this thing barely breaks double digits in the MPG category.
 
Just make sure to add a bottle (or two depending on the size of the fuel tank) of lead substitute when you fuel it up to give those exhaust valves and seats a fighting chance of survival.
 
Got a stockpile of parts here now for the next slew of activities to occur on the truck. Carb rebuild, spark plugs, and wires. If we cant get this thing running better will replace the coil, points and condenser but they all look fairly new.

Struggling finding a "non" rounded 6 point hex spindle socket that is thin walled and 1/2'' drive. Ones I have found are $50 and up! NAPA only had rounded style sockets that are not correct for my application. Ordered one off Amazon Prime today along with a 1/2'' to 3/4'' drive adapter so I can properly torque the rear axle nuts. My impact socket will not fit within the snout of the hub.
 
The old International engines was built hell for stout. I would about bet that the engine already has hard seats in the heads. It may also have sodium filled stellite valves too.
If it smokes some on starting, get some of those positive sealing valve guide seals, neoprene ones that fits tight over the outside of the valve guides and install them. It will dry up that early morning smoking habit. LOL
 
MrMarty51 said:
The old International engines was built hell for stout. I would about bet that the engine already has hard seats in the heads. It may also have sodium filled stellite valves too.
If it smokes some on starting, get some of those positive sealing valve guide seals, neoprene ones that fits tight over the outside of the valve guides and install them. It will dry up that early morning smoking habit. LOL
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I did quite a bit of searching on this after the discussions earlier in this thread and it is mentioned in multiple places on the IH webs. The re-tagged A engines (rebuilds) are stated to not, and mine isn't. Of course this is all here-say from others so not ultimately sure.
 
Finally got the axle socket in. Stupid thing was a nightmare to get! All the sockets at local stores were rounded.
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Set it in the pile of tune up parts, I need to get my butt back in gear on this.
 
Finally made some progress. Got the passenger rear torqued as specified. Torque to 50 lbs, back off 1/4 turn, install lock washer and torque outer nut to 150 ft lbs. Got the axle shift back in as well.
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Drivers side not so much luck. Turns out the lock washer was shot. Mainly the tab locking the washer to the snout. Also in my prep for the temporary ford alloys I need acorn style lugnuts. Will also need to confirm that I have enough stud protruding from the thicker rims.
 
Got some paperwork together and am starting the painstaking process of registering a vehicle in NYS that has never been registered in its life. The DMV is appts only and currently booked till the 2nd week of February. I could do this by mail in but with the no reg and no tile due to older than 73 it complicates things.... also afraid to lose original docs in the mail.
 
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