DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Hey. No skipping ahead in this book. That's Chapter 2! haha
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1969 IH 1300D 4X4 - Pump Truck
- Thread starter DieselSlug
- Start date
Hey. No skipping ahead in this book. That's Chapter 2! haha
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Looks like it's a good thing you decided to swap out all of that stuff. Lots of gunk and crust. Your work sure looks pretty when it's done. I'm enjoying the thread.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Front spindle seals finally came in.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Disassembly of the booster to clean. The function seems smooth and I can feel the diaphragm actuating, so I think reusing will be viable.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Well I was going to get some better pics on the process of packing wheel bearings (manually), but when your covered in grease and don't want to touch your $700 phone you write it off as a loss and show milestone pictures.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Got one hub on the spindle. Was a bit tougher than I anticipated, mostly due to the locking washer, the thing is stupid thick and EXTREMELY hard to bend the tangs back over.
Took a break on the drivers side to come up with a better game plan to bend the tangs,. Just cant get any flat bar to fit in there, and my smaller punches are just too flimsy to bend them:
Took a break on the drivers side to come up with a better game plan to bend the tangs,. Just cant get any flat bar to fit in there, and my smaller punches are just too flimsy to bend them:
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
On the 59 Dodge, I switched from the bend over the nut locks to the perforated washer and nut with the peg types of locks, then, the outer nut is just a jam device to keep it all from falling apart. LOL
I figure that old Dodge is going to be in the family for a very very long time and I did not want the future generations to have to deal with them bend over tabs.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Luckily you can get these (locking tab washer) fairly readily still. However I'm just blown away how much metal was wasted on this thing making it so difficult. All you need is a thin tab washer or the peg locking mechanism. Hell even castle nuts!
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Spent about 30 minutes cleaning up the booster. Some of the corners that I couldn't get the wire cup in still have corrosion but I will hit them with the small drill unit prior to some primer and satin paint. Not bad for a gross removal effort:
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Got the booster primed:
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yeah, talk about hub nuts in the hummer/hmmwv world as if it's no biggie and get ready to run for your life! super easy method of flipping one is reusing the old tab washer of get one of the poor ones and g'bye goes the wheel and hub. happens at low speed and it is a few grand in body damage. happens at high speed and lucky if everyone lives from it.
She is coming along nicely. Keep it up!
She is coming along nicely. Keep it up!
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Got the first coat of Satin on the booster:
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Slapped another final coat of satin black on the booster and bracketry. Also got the drive flanges installed with the help of BinderPlanets crews (my manual didn't list torque specs for this, must have been a different reproduction).
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Good habit with notes
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Been basically zero progress on the old Binder. I have been literally home a week trying to catch up at the day job and travelling the next week for the day job for about a month now. In the meantime I have received my new (not reman) NAPA master cylinder and I purchased some of the copper coated fancy brake line. My dad also purchased the Rigid double flare tool so I will be the first to test it. Of course I left all those parts at my house today so I began to get the rear of the truck lifted off the ground for brake/seal work. This thing is friggen heavy! Its really difficult to jack up in the back as the fire body hangs so far over the rear of the truck.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Those are some serious-ass leaf springs on the back! A "ride" set and a "load" set!
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Another gentlemen has a similar truck and his overload springs are 1-1.5" off the stop. Guessing mine are either worn or the apparatus, tank, pump etc are really heavy.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Slapped another final coat of satin black on the booster and bracketry. Also got the drive flanges installed with the help of BinderPlanets crews (my manual didn't list torque specs for this, must have been a different reproduction).
I use them wire tags, I have wrote on the fill transmission/differentials and tie them to the steering wheel. That way, if I cant remember if I did or did not fill them, I have a real clear reminder to check them. LOL
I got a set of those overloads for real cheap when the old Ford garage was shutting down. Got 3 sets actually. Sold two.
I see it appears that the spacer between the axle and the spring can have sections removed to adjust the height of the spring. The problem with getting too much clearance between the bracket and the spring is, when driving with a load, or partial load, the over loads can bounce against the bracket and make for a mighty rough ride. with the spacer block that came with My spring sets, I think it is about two inches between the bracket and the spring. After that, the tires gets against the flatbed and makes for one heck of a heavy duty over load. LOL. It can be drove in the yard like that but I would never try to leave the yard with the tire rubbing against the bed. LOL
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Picture of the new MC:
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Pulled the rear axle-shafts today, was hoping to not find gear oil in there but I should have known better. Drivers side had a small pool but the passenger side was a good drool. Looks like someone lost the flange hardware as the rears have standard nuts (missing the integrated washers like the fronts) and the use of a lock washer between the nut and conical wedge.
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Also noted today that there is air in between the overload spring and its bumps on the passenger side. Thinking that the new pump (done in 2016 time frame for the tune of $13K) is extremely heavy. I will most likely not use this truck for pumping anything and might think about removing it eventually. Would like to keep it as intact as possible however this was already a modification technically.
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Pulled the rear axle-shafts today, was hoping to not find gear oil in there but I should have known better. Drivers side had a small pool but the passenger side was a good drool. Looks like someone lost the flange hardware as the rears have standard nuts (missing the integrated washers like the fronts) and the use of a lock washer between the nut and conical wedge.
-----------------------------------------------
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Also noted today that there is air in between the overload spring and its bumps on the passenger side. Thinking that the new pump (done in 2016 time frame for the tune of $13K) is extremely heavy. I will most likely not use this truck for pumping anything and might think about removing it eventually. Would like to keep it as intact as possible however this was already a modification technically.
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MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I dont believe that there would be any damage to the springs with it resting on the overload on the left side. Be nice if the load could be centered so it would be even and I imagine that it would be when a full tank of water is obtained. LOL
On the state trucks and axle flanges. One truck of the same year as the next might have flanged self locking course thread nuts and the next one might have self locking regular nuts with just hard washers, next one might be just locking warshers and the variants would go on. Sometimes they would have just regular nuts and hardened washers with lock washers too. Just never could tell. LOL
That was on the 7000 and larger series of trucks. I never got to mess with the lighter stuff too much so dont remember too much about them.
On the state trucks and axle flanges. One truck of the same year as the next might have flanged self locking course thread nuts and the next one might have self locking regular nuts with just hard washers, next one might be just locking warshers and the variants would go on. Sometimes they would have just regular nuts and hardened washers with lock washers too. Just never could tell. LOL
That was on the 7000 and larger series of trucks. I never got to mess with the lighter stuff too much so dont remember too much about them.