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1500 vs 2500 suburban?

hereismylife

formerly j k auto
Messages
252
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1
Location
pa
searching here where is the info at that tells me the difference. The 2500 and 1500 look the same. I need to order the brake line and it shows the 1500 is different then the 2500. the weight class shows the same.....

thanks
 
The easiest way to tell between the 1500 and 2500 SUBURBANS is do you have full floating hubs? The 1500 BURB got the 9.5" 14 bolt diff(round cover) and does not have full floating hubs. The 2500 BURB got the 10.5" 14 bolt(octagonal cover) with full floating hubs(the axles are bolted in at the wheels). For a diesel though, the 1500 BURB is the same as a 2500 BURB with a 350 gasser as far as the drivetrain goes. It's confusing as ONLY the 1500 BURB has teh 8 lug wheels and 3/4 ton light duty drivetrain(the 9.5" instead of 10.5" diff). For al lintentfull purposes, the 1500 BURB IS a 2500 chassis and uses all 3/4 ton parts.
 
Is there a light 1/2 ton and a heavy 1/2 ton?.........What would be the differences?
A 6.5 engine. All gas 1500 Subs are light duty. All 6.5 1500 are basically 3/4 tons. 8 lug wheels, big brakes, etc. As stated, 2500s have full floating rear, 1500s don't. Also 1500's have a small air dam, 2500s don't. 2500's have slightly higher GVW. Other than that, about the same. Oh yes, 1500 are all (at least 2WD, not sure on 4X4) 3.42 axle ratios, 2500 are 3.73 or 4.11 as I recall.
 
Is there a light 1/2 ton and a heavy 1/2 ton?.........What would be the differences?


For gas engines no, for diesel engines yes. GM is REALLY confusing as to how they optioned everything out. For BURBS there is the 350 gasser 1500 half ton with 5 or 6 lugs(2 or 4 wheel drive) and the 10 bolt 8 1/2" rear end. Then theres the diesel 1500 which is an 8 lug regardless of 2 or 4 WD, and I believe it is a 8050 GVWR chassis with the 9 1/2" semi floating rear end. For 2500's they're all 8 lugs, but the 350 gasser uses the 9 1/2" semi floater whereas the 454 and 6.5 uses teh 10 1/2" full floater. The 350 2500 is basically the same chassis as the 1500 diesel BURB, but with the 2500 front end parts. Then you get to figure in the snow plow prep package which gives you some MONSTER torsion bars in the front end, and then there is the up optioned heavier rear leaf pack that is one big son of a gun. Trucks is ALOT more confusing and would take up alot of time to break down all of the differrences.
 
Just a note do not go by 1500/2500 badge get underneath and look. There are 2500 Diesel suburbans out there with the 9.5 SF/3.42 rear end I have one for starters and in prior such discussions others have chimed in to the same. As far as I am concerned the 1500/2500 labeling is a lottery when it comes to Burb's.

Cheers
Nobby
 
Then you get to figure in the snow plow prep package which gives you some MONSTER torsion bars in the front end, and then there is the up optioned heavier rear leaf pack that is one big son of a gun. Trucks are more confusing and would take up a lot of time to break down all of the differences.
For instance:
My 96 2500 burb has the heavy leaf spring package rated for 8600#, not sure about the bars I don't see snow prep in the build sheet. But heavier torsion bars might be included in the #8600 package. It doesn't sag in the front like I have seen some 1500 gassers do. :cool:
 
4X4 as well on the 3.42

As far as I can tell Yes a rule of thumb. But from what I have seen nothing is a given so when in doubt Check. It's the only way to know. My Tahoe has 3.73 gears factory

Anybody with 3.42 gears want to swap. Or if anybody spies a Tahoe with 3.42 gears that I can buy cheap enough to swap I would be interested
 
Just a note do not go by 1500/2500 badge get underneath and look. There are 2500 Diesel suburbans out there with the 9.5 SF/3.42 rear end I have one for starters and in prior such discussions others have chimed in to the same. As far as I am concerned the 1500/2500 labeling is a lottery when it comes to Burb's.

Cheers
Nobby

I suggest you double check your GVWR. ALL 2500 BURBS with a 6.5 diesel came with 3.73 or 4.10 gears and the 10.5" 14 bolt full floater. The ONLY 2500 BURB that I am aware of with a 9.5" rear end is a 350 gasser as the 9.5" rear end really doesn't have the weight carrying ability to make it a 2500. It is REALLY confusing as all 6.5 BURBS are built on a 3/4 ton chassis, it just depends on which 2500 chassis it got is wether it is a 1500 or 2500. The 1500 6.5 BURB is for all intentful purposes a 2500 truck, but I believe it only has a 8050 or 8300 GVWR whereas a true 2500 BURB has a 8600 GVWR(unless it is one of teh special ordered secret service models fro mway back taht used a 3500 SRW chassis arrangement to support the extra armor plating and such). The 9.5" and 3.42 gears though with a 6.5 makes it a 1500 BURB, not a 2500.
 
Arn't 1500's, 1/4 ton?

No, 1500 is 1/2 ton

What about those early 90's, 1500 SS short bed with the 454 gasser in them....They had to be 1/4 tons, they were light as you could get, with way to much Motor (SS Fast)

We used to put a "Quick Crane" on them, and they would bend from towing (Chase Trucks)............Some guys would Plate the Chasis where the Bed and the Cab meet.

Those 1500 454 Super Sport were the fastest trucks around!
 
What about those early 90's, 1500 SS short bed with the 454 gasser in them....They had to be 1/4 tons, they were light as you could get, with way to much Motor (SS Fast)

We used to put a "Quick Crane" on them, and they would bend from towing (Chase Trucks)............Some guys would Plate the Chasis where the Bed and the Cab meet.

Those 1500 454 Super Sport were the fastest trucks around!

The only 1/4 ton chevys I'm aware of were the S10's
 
I thought S10/S15's were considered half tons by the factory. At least in the mid/late 90's?

What are the differences between half ton and 3/4 chasis? Our Tahoe sits a hair higher than my K2500 P/U thanks to the tires but when I climb under it is a tight fit between my chest and the frame. Under my K2500 I have plenty of room. I cain't fit under the K1500 Suburban without lifting it some.
 
I suggest you double check your GVWR. ALL 2500 BURBS with a 6.5 diesel came with 3.73 or 4.10 gears and the 10.5" 14 bolt full floater. The ONLY 2500 BURB that I am aware of with a 9.5" rear end is a 350 gasser as the 9.5" rear end really doesn't have the weight carrying ability to make it a 2500. It is REALLY confusing as all 6.5 BURBS are built on a 3/4 ton chassis, it just depends on which 2500 chassis it got is wether it is a 1500 or 2500. The 1500 6.5 BURB is for all intentful purposes a 2500 truck, but I believe it only has a 8050 or 8300 GVWR whereas a true 2500 BURB has a 8600 GVWR(unless it is one of teh special ordered secret service models fro mway back taht used a 3500 SRW chassis arrangement to support the extra armor plating and such). The 9.5" and 3.42 gears though with a 6.5 makes it a 1500 BURB, not a 2500.

Umm did you read my post fully? I have a Trim Badged 2500 Suburban with the SF. This phenomenon of incorrect trim badge on the burbs has been noted in the past in other threads/forums. Unless this part of the discussion is semantics in that you are using the term 2500 figuratively to refer to a true 3/4 vehicle, whereas I am using the term literally as in the actual badge on the trim of the truck. Which is why I made the prior comment based on my own vehicle to ignore what the badge says and get under the truck. But you are correct in suggesting checking the door sticker in that my burb with the 2500 badge indeed GVWR's at 8050 and VINs out as a 1/2 ton. The rear spring pack is a different part number to the 3/4 ton and I checked with the local GM parts guy and indeed as we are discussing for the 1500 burbs is a heavy half ton spring pack.

Of course this then leads to two possibilities either GM had bad/funky days and the wrong badge was stuck on the side of the truck or a PO for whatever reason decided to change the badges. I have heard it was the former either way like I said get under the truck as well check the VIN/RPO codes and of course as you said check the GVWR sticker.

Cheers
Nobby
 
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