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06 Jetta TDI belt tensioner bounce

it has the auto 5 speed DSG. the input splines on the tranny are shot, otherwise would work. what happened was the dual mass flywheel gave way stripping out all the center splines. I could possibly replace the flywheel and it might hold and work for a little while, but I wouldn't trust it for any length of time. I would have to get the new flywheel in and slide it one the tranny to see just how worn down the input shaft really is.

only problem with that is the cost of the flywheel is $500 if I get one from Flea Bay and upwards around $800 from the local auto parts. Not really wanting to spend that much just to go off of hopes and dreams to see if it'll work LOL
 
the price seems to have gone down a little on RA. here is the flywheel it needs funny how RA only lists it under the application for a manual trans but it's an automatic.

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Here is a close up of what it should look like and what the old one looks like. the input shaft still has "some" meat left!!

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Here is a thread for the TDI Club where a fella has the same issue. I'm feeling optimistic that it might just work.

06 jetta DSG Quit moving

Was driving a customers 06 jetta DSG and the trans quit moving entirely. I had a feeling it was the flywheel, and when I pulled the trans out I found.... Splines where the input shaft ride were completely stripped. Here's the trans input shaft splines.. a little "roughed up" but...
forums.tdiclub.com forums.tdiclub.com

if this link is not allowed, please let me know.
 
LUK makes really good heavy duty flywheels and clutches. A lot of power output increased Duramax and Cummins engines in front of manual transmissions were running LUK clutches and flywheels as part of the power upgrade in their writeups in DieselPower magazine.

My two cents is that if the input shaft splines are in decent condition - the groove shoulders still parallel to each other and the lands are squared - then toss a new flywheel in it and keep on Jetta'n!
 
I've been a member over there for a little while but never posted anything. just like here, there is a great deal of good knowledge over there.

I think LUK is the only manufacture of these DMF flywheels other than VW. which is good that the market isn't flooded with crappy parts for them. seeing the price somewhat lower than before when I has searched for one is making me optimistic and hopeful that we can get this gem up and rolling under it's own power again. I think I am gonna make an attempt at it here real soon. gonna at least wait through Feburary incase we get another snowmegeddon before old man winter goes back to sleep!!
 
The other thing you will find with high quality aftermarket clutches/flywheels/torque converters is that they're generally built/machined to higher standards and tighter tolerances. You may very well find that the splines of the LUK fit tighter than those of the VW flywheel did when it was new - which is good for that slightly worn input shaft.
 
Well I finally broke down and ordered the new flywheel for the Jetta. LUK DMF092. should arrive sometime tomorrow. I will get to test fit it on the splines and see just how bad the input shaft is. hoping it will survive. I will try to post some pics when it arrives.
 
You will most likely find that the splines on the LUK clutch are machined to tighter tolerances than the factory's clutch was. Often times with aftermarket clutch/TC installs, people will complain that the new unit is "too small", "too tight" or "hard to slip on" because of this. The explanation is simple: The factory has the tolerances just slightly loose so that it can be quickly and easily assembled as it rolls down the line to not delay/hold up the line b/c it can't be installed.

Hope you find that the LUK clutch fits just fine despite the minor damage/wear to the input shaft. Lotsa luck with the install, @dbrannon79.
 
Just got the flywheel in. did a test fit on the trans to see what it would look like. it doesn't look too promising to say the least, talk about questionable choices!! Idk, the fitment is firm, I don't feel any slop at all but taking a close up of the splines meshing up with the input shaft looks very questionable. I'm almost wondering if I should put it back together with the new flywheel and sell it cheap.

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the pic of the input shaft came out kinda blurry. I attempted to take a couple more pics plus they are kinda tapered at the end making it look like it has more of a gap with them meshed together. but still a questionable choice for dropping a $450 flywheel in and pretending like I didn't see this..... 🙄

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Looks like about 50% of the load bearing surface of the input shaft splines is gone (the top part of the triangle of the spline teeth). TIGing then grinding to fit the input shaft splines would be very labor (and $ if you have to shop it out) intense - you might as well just buy a new or good used shaft and disassemble the transaxle and swap the better one in. If you do it yourself, then you'll have about $600 total into this between the clutch and the shaft. Then drive the shit out of it for the next 150K miles until this clutch goes out and then who cares.

Or, slap this clutch in, put it all back together and sell it as is with "new clutch installed" and wipe your hands of it and use the money from the sale towards a different vehicle.
 
Along @jrsavoie's line of thought: Here's a thought. Clean the shit out of the input shaft splines and the clutch splines. Mix up a batch of JB Weld, slide the clutch onto the shaft, then pack the gaps with the JB Weld and let cure. You won't be able to get the clutch off, but you WILL have 100% contact between the two sets of splines!
 
dbrannon79 said:
the shaft is part of the internal clutch housing containing all the clutch disks. I found the replacement online but it's only sold with the clutches.

I don't know how legit this site is but here is one.

View attachment 79530
Click to expand...
DSG is a reputable manufacturer. I would assume that a company selling its products is also a reputable retailer for them.

Wow on the price! You'd have over a grand just in parts, PLUS your labor time, into this repair! Is it worth it, or should you just put together what you have and wipe your hands of it and let it become somebody else's problem a couple of years down the road?
 
Husker6.5 said:
Along @jrsavoie's line of thought: Here's a thought. Clean the shit out of the input shaft splines and the clutch splines. Mix up a batch of JB Weld, slide the clutch onto the shaft, then pack the gaps with the JB Weld and let cure. You won't be able to get the clutch off, but you WILL have 100% contact between the two sets of splines!
Click to expand...
I had thought about that. only problem is you can't get in there to pack the splines once the trans is in place. there are no openings at all. I could goop some on both splines once the flywheel is mounted on the crank and before I stab the trans in and just wait 24-48 hours before I try to crank it over.
 
That's what I meant. Slide the flywheel on, then cram the JB Weld in through the front tapers of the input shaft splines until each worn spline cavity is full of JB Weld and then smooth it off.

The problem with schmearing it onto the shaft/clutch splines then sliding the clutch on it the very real possibility that any excess JB Weld or epoxy could be pushed back onto the face of the input shaft that the clutch rests against causing the clutch to either seat unevenly against the face - inducing a later wobble, or have void pockets in the JB Weld layer between the shaft face and the clutch face that could later cause the JB Weld to break and cause stability issues between the clutch and shaft. Not to mention that any JB Weld between the two could possibly cause clutch engagement/disengagement clearance issues.

Definitely yes on the 24-48 hours curing time before firing it up!
 
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