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‘94 vs ‘99 steering radius: What creates the difference

Big T

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Steering radius on the ‘94 is greater than the ‘99. Both use the same steering box, or so said Redhead. So is the difference due to the stamped steel lower control arms in the ‘94 vs the forged lower control arms on the ‘99????
 
steering radius is controlled by the stops built into the steering. if ones a 1/2t and the other is a 3/4t they will limit the amount it turns on the 3/4t, they're assuming the 3/4t will be loaded heavier and want to reduce the stress on the joints in the cv shafts
 
Another thing too, there is a wear factor, and on the stamped and welded arms there is more chance of defeating these stops. Around here it's usually due to rust worms.
 
NP, you might price new lowers ready to bolt on. Getting the torsion bars out is usually a PITA. And then the high probability the bushings and joints are worn out on a used unit.
 
NP, you might price new lowers ready to bolt on. Getting the torsion bars out is usually a PITA. And then the high probability the bushings and joints are worn out on a used unit.

I will have to cut the stamped steel lowers off with a grinder and a cutting wheel. I was unable to get them off the torsion bars the last time and I spent days soaking them and using the heat wrench.

Are you talking about wear on the forged lowers where they slide onto the torsion bars?
 
NP, you might price new lowers ready to bolt on. Getting the torsion bars out is usually a PITA. And then the high probability the bushings and joints are worn out on a used unit.
New lowers don't exist for these trucks or at least they didn't 2 years ago when I did my front end. As to turning radius, my stock 95 box was horrible, when I had the agr box my turning radius was noticeably tighter, and my redhead box is in between what the 2 others were. On a side note, I hope your redhead fairs better than mine. 2 years old with less than 15K miles, it's leaking out the pitman shaft, and already has noticeable play in it. I'm really regretting my purchase from them now.
 
New lowers don't exist for these trucks or at least they didn't 2 years ago when I did my front end. As to turning radius, my stock 95 box was horrible, when I had the agr box my turning radius was noticeably tighter, and my redhead box is in between what the 2 others were. On a side note, I hope your redhead fairs better than mine. 2 years old with less than 15K miles, it's leaking out the pitman shaft, and already has noticeable play in it. I'm really regretting my purchase from them now.

You mean like this redhead steering box I needed to send back after installing.....

 
Other than that faulty one I had to send back, the redhead steering boxes have been good so far. Haven't put a whole lot of miles on them.

The steering radius on my Son's '94 Suburban sucks. Redhead said the steering boxes are the same. His knuckles do hit up against the lower control arms, thus my inquiry here.

Like I said, the last time I did new bushings on his '94, I was never able to get the lower control arms off the torsion bars, nor could I pull the torsion bars out from the back crossover. No amount of heat, BFH, nothing. I ended up dropping the whole torsion bar and lower control arm assembly as a complete unit. Then I popped out the bushings and installed new ones. The forged control arms don't get rusted on.
 
Seriously? I don't drive mine in the salt, but I know most are not like this. I wonder what people do when theirs rot?


Looks to be the case. I guess I never even tried to look new ones up when I did the '93. Only option is used stuff or swap in gmt800 parts. Then you get into the tirod and taper size debacle;

@SmithvilleD was swapping in some gmt800 parts, dunno if it's complete or not;

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...00-brake-conversion-tie-rod-discussion.45012/
 
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I'm all ears on this swap project Smithville is working on.

Still can't believe lowers aren't made, but that's just about how it goes. One little part can make a whole vehicle a "throw-away". Don't get in a wreck!
 
I'm all ears on this swap project Smithville is working on.

Still can't believe lowers aren't made, but that's just about how it goes. One little part can make a whole vehicle a "throw-away". Don't get in a wreck!

Thats where you have to decide ahead of time that you are going to keep it after the normal parts are no longer available. I have a 43 Willy’s that was my Dad’s. I have a spare engine, couple spare trans, Xfercase, springs, etc, etc. Lucky for me they regained some popularity and parts that were nla are being reproduced. But if they weren’t, you have to know how to adapt or build your own components.

A-arms impossible to replace? Heck no. Look at aftermarket offroad builds. Tubular a arms with better results than stock and elimination of annoying bushings and improve acess to other stuff when working around them.

I believe any car or truck guy should first be very picky about what do you want. As in if you won a contest or new government law and they give you 1 rig for the rest of your life. What would you drive. Get that truck or car. Then make improvements to get it EXACTLY how you want it. Now stock the parts that you will need for it. If like my Dad’s Willy’s, a son would cherish owning it, then plan accordingly with parts. Most of the spare parts I have for it, he got for little to no cost.

Remember this a gearhead thing. Most people now don’t care about their ride as much as they do their shoes.
 
There was a thread on the brake swap to gmt800 front discs and associated parts but I can't find it. So if the gmt800 LCAs work, one could theoretically swap in everything but the top arms.
 
Looks to be the case. I guess I never even tried to look new ones up when I did the '93. Only option is used stuff or swap in gmt800 parts. Then you get into the tirod and taper size debacle;

@SmithvilleD was swapping in some gmt800 parts, dunno if it's complete or not;

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...00-brake-conversion-tie-rod-discussion.45012/
Looks to be the case. I guess I never even tried to look new ones up when I did the '93. Only option is used stuff or swap in gmt800 parts. Then you get into the tirod and taper size debacle;

@SmithvilleD was swapping in some gmt800 parts, dunno if it's complete or not;

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...00-brake-conversion-tie-rod-discussion.45012/

SmithvilleD did complete his install of the GMT 800 brakes and he was using the GMT 800 LCAs (see post 14 for picture):

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...00-brake-conversion-tie-rod-discussion.45012/

He also posted in your linked thread that it was his intention to install the GMT 800 LCAs.

He also completed the swap of a GMT 800 Corporate 14 rear axle with disc brakes. Based on his input we have a GMT 800 Corporate 14 all prepped for installation on my son's '94. Just been a bit busy to get to it, but the time to do it is soon.
 
I'm all ears on this swap project Smithville is working on.

Still can't believe lowers aren't made, but that's just about how it goes. One little part can make a whole vehicle a "throw-away". Don't get in a wreck!
I just checked, and not even lmc offers lowers. Your only option is the bone yard if you need them.
 
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