Ya know, the oil filter on the LS gassers is really short but is one of the best aua filters around. I’ve no idea if it would fit/work, but maybe something like it would work.
The real drawback is these engines have such amazingly dirty oil that the filter is already barely enough to get to...
Yeah the 4wd sideways is just to clear the front driveshaft.
Doing a remote makes oil changes easier depending where you put it, but two more oil lines that can fail and longer for the new oil to get to bearings.
The delay can be eliminated if you install a pre oiler accumulator. High tech...
The bolt that mounts the adapter gets replaced by a threaded pipe.
If you can fit an oil filter there, fine. But the other option is to get a remote mount kit where you pick the new location for the filter.
Whoever picks on you for saving $ on an unknown engine can chip in $ for new oil & filter! Haha. No different than starting an engine that is in a truck you just bought- ya never really know how old the oil & filter in it is.
Done the same thing before- test on stand with cherry picker as...
The 4 amps is from the 1 circuit that has the problem.
All the wires were grounds completing the circuit so it doesn’t matter if it is one ground wire or 10,000.
Watch the video I posted and do that.
You are doing it wrong. It is picking up the ground wherever you ground it.
7 years later you still won’t find it. Clean and reconnected all the grounds.
Then do a parasitic draw test at the battery.
There is one little town along that road (I forget the name) with a sign that mentions speeding and a test zone- That area isn’t a joke. 1mph over will get you a ticket, never an exception.
The rest of the area is still people there who remember driving when the only speed limit description was...
It’s like the fitting for the ds4 to supply the location for the pressure sensor:
ModMafia sells it but most people won’t buy from him because they can save $15.
Unless there was something specific to it, people will just look at it then go shop amazon
I’m with WW on this.
Putting a fitting into the oil pan below the oil line is idea for the provent. Then do an actual hydraulic hose like heavy equipment would use so there is zero chance of failure.
@dbrannon79
I am sorry sir, but you are simply going to have to mount another gauge next to that boost gauge. That looks too fancy up there! Fuel pressure comes to mind…
If you are going into the engine for my always recommended cleaning up flashing, gapless rings, coated bearings, yada yada, then OHHHH so careful do the steel puddy knife trick to remove the covers and yeah use them.
If you are not pulling the valve covers to make internal improvements then...
There is a drain, I circles it in white. GEP adds a tube in the back of the block visible behind the flywheel/flexplate that directs the liquids out the driver’s side of the engine. Otherwise any leaking oil gets mis diagnosed as a leaking rear main seal.
The two raised bosses are to mount...
Under and over travel is just saying out of parameters. On the 6.2/6.5 it has alw been just set it to 5.0v at full throttle then check idle is within range.
To be fair, checking it all along the range is the best to know it isn’t having a hiccup along the way but I just slowly move throttle...
Send them in.
Ignore the number on the bodies as the internal is the part that counts. And once you open them up, they need tested to ensure they are sealed.
Either Rockabillyrat or Marty’s place.
You are already hitting all the suggestions I would have here. I am sick right now so deep thought on stuff isn’t gonna work good. I will be coming up with round pegs for square holes right now. Video on that clear ip return line is about the only thing I didn’t see you suggest.