• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Removing Valve Cover Bolts New Longblock

MrMarty51

Well-Known Member
Messages
18,431
Reaction score
42,822
Location
Miles City, Montana
I have the Leroy Diesel stud and girdle kit to replace the factory valve/rocker arm cover bolts.
I’m wondering if I could remove the bolts from the new covers and install the studs, place the girdles over the studs and install the nuts to hold it all down.
Basically turn the new engine into a storage department instead of having those components stored on a shelf or in a box.
Safe to remove the original bolts without causing a leak ?
Or, dont chance it ?
IMG_0700.jpeg
 
I have the Leroy Diesel stud and girdle kit to replace the factory valve/rocker arm cover bolts.
I’m wondering if I could remove the bolts from the new covers and install the studs, place the girdles over the studs and install the nuts to hold it all down.
Basically turn the new engine into a storage department instead of having those components stored on a shelf or in a box.
Safe to remove the original bolts without causing a leak ?
Or, dont chance it ?
View attachment 90100
I did not replace them. Figured I’d give the originals their chance and save the stud kit for repairs down the road.
 
If you are going into the engine for my always recommended cleaning up flashing, gapless rings, coated bearings, yada yada, then OHHHH so careful do the steel puddy knife trick to remove the covers and yeah use them.
If you are not pulling the valve covers to make internal improvements then DONT TOUCH THE COVERS.
Factory ones don’t leak. They have the perfect amount of right stuff on them and all the bolts installed simultaneously so they seal perfect. Yes- the right stuff is what GM switched to after the failure of their own designed GMS (proper name General Motors Silicon but known in dealerships as Gooey Messy Shiit)
 
Alone they will be left.
I kind of figured so.
When removing the valve covers, I also use a butane torch to heat the flange surfaces, not hot enough to blister paint.
Then the wood handle scraper drove into the areas at the top front corners where the covers dont turn downwards.
I think NAPA sells those wood handle scrapers, or, they used to have them.
Just be sure to grind back the wood at the butt end of the handles to keep them from splitting when the steel shank becomes distorted.
 
Back
Top