At 3:30 pm PDT Sunday, the old girl rattled back to life.
Finally got the second battery for her today.
Installed battery
Ran the lift pump and purged out about a gallon of diesel to be sure the fuel was clean and free of water . :agreed:
Removed the glow plugs and had Pat crank the beast for...
I would run steel where I could.
If you can get the truck up enough to work under it easily, you can remove the old factory lines and use them as patterns for your new lines.
Even the diesel rated hose is far more vulnerable under the rig.
Good luck
Missy
Follow back to the pump.
The vacuum at the pump should be about 26 inches HG and a steady gauge.
If the gauge is low or wiggling all over, then the vacuum pump is shot
As mentioned, no vacuum at the waste gate actuator can be a bad plastic line or a solenoid issue as well.
Also as mentioned...
The post has detailed instructions on how to cut the hole.
The reference points and the sizes are all there.
If you wish, you can use a hole saw and gain access.
I preferred to make a slightly larger port that allow my hand to access the area, as well as gain access to the heater hose clamps...
The post has detailed instructions on how to cut the hole.
The reference points and the sizes are all there.
If you wish, you can use a hole saw and gain access.
I preferred to make a slightly larger port that allow my hand to access the area, as well as gain access to the heater hose clamps...
I wrote a detailed post on how to add a little access hole in the inner fender that allows an easy access to the #8 plug, plus easy access to the heater hose clamps be the firewall.
For the folks that have to deal with SALT :eek: trying to unbolt the inner fender could result in broken bolts...
With the little rat hole in the inner fender, you don't need to remove or do anything to the down pipe etc.
Removing the nuts that hold the glow plug tubes on cyls 4 and 6 then get your wires loose from the clamps etc.
Slide the tubes down the wires and this allows easy finger access to the...
The pictures shown of the glow plugs and such on the referred post were all taken with only the rubber flap removed and nothing else.
Be safe and block the frame once the tire/wheel is off
The #48 post referred to gives great pix of how to mod the inner fender to access the rear plug.
This...
you dont need to remove the inner fender, just the rubber flap at the lower inner edge
This will give you all the room you need.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?43014-I-m-back-Dahoooley-may-ride-again
click this link
go to page 4
pix and all you need
The 6.5 just hoses, no matter.
Fixed orifice
This is an area that folks have had issues.
The non squirt blocks use a slightly smaller (lower volume) pump than the squirt blocks
using a non squirt pump on a squirt block will result in almost zero oil pressure at hot idle
Having a missing...
The squirt blocks also came with some early style and late style squirt nozzles.
The early nozzles had a much larger body, and thus a larger hole was drilled into main saddle.
The size was reduced in the later blocks.
The early 506 squirt blocks had the large diameter main bolts in both inner...
Some turbo systems do not use a waste gate, as in the Banks system that was sold as an add on for the 6.2 back in the 80's
The turbo was limited to about 10 psi simply by the size of the unit.
The turbine is the exhaust driven or HOT side wheel, and the compressor or cold side is what delivers...
For whatever its worth.
I have used Clearwater Cyl Head in Florida
Used their heads and had good luck.
The ones I got were nice looking and worked fine.
All ready to go now.
Just gotta wait till the 1st of the month to get batteries.
I don't want a cheap set, so better to wait til the $$$$ are in.
Got the grille back in the other day, with I might add, the gracious help of my 7 year old grandson. :thumbsup:
Little hands are great to reach...
That would be a sweet ticket for the 6.5.
Anything that will help break up the tendency towards having steam pockets and other heat related issues.
Better heat transfer to the radiator as well would allow the fan clutch to work better too.
I'M A GONNA TRY IT
Has anyone here had any experience with Water Wetter.
The theory is to reduce the size of bubbles in the coolant and to keep more coolant in contact with the metal parts.
Any thoughts ????