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glow plug replacement question

dangerousdave said:
Do the Bosch Duratherms tips swell up?
Click to expand...

9G were the swell prone glows, most of those should be off store shelves, 11G don't swell but don't also like extended glow time those also should be hard to find now unless somebody's new old stock/stored ones, or "used but tested good" AC-60G are the std GM replacement, Autolite has a 1110 series which is like the 11G, Delphi has a replacement I forgot the #, Bosh Duratherms reported to be the best all round for longevity & extended glow.
 
Turbine Doc said:
9G were the swell prone glows, most of those should be off store shelves, 11G don't swell but don't also like extended glow time those also should be hard to find now unless somebody's new old stock/stored ones, or "used but tested good" AC-60G are the std GM replacement, Autolite has a 1110 series which is like the 11G, Delphi has a replacement I forgot the #, Bosh Duratherms reported to be the best all round for longevity & extended glow.
Click to expand...

Great info! Thanks, Tim.
 
well i did my glow plugs today. i put in the bosch 80034's. well i took the wheel well out on the right side. all the ones that said the last one was the hardest one. you were wrong. i had to take my downpipe loose and move it away from the engine to even see the 3rd one back. my downpipe is rather large. my truck must be the odd one, of the bunch. the wheel well took about an hour to get off,it took me about 1.5 hours to do the right side. about a half hour to do the left. all trucks are different and us working on them have to just work with the difference. thank you guys for all your help
 
The most difficult part for me in taking down my wheel well is the air box. It would be a 5 minute job, except for the molded nut in the air box, itself. That has been known to add an additional 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours for that ONE bolt. Glad you were successful, either way.
 
Do you have any pictures of the inner fender removal? I am getting ready to do the GP's after a winter of adventure last year! Dumb questions...did you have to remove the ps battery and tray as well as the air box etc.? I have not looked at it closely just yet.
 
The pictures shown of the glow plugs and such on the referred post were all taken with only the rubber flap removed and nothing else.

Be safe and block the frame once the tire/wheel is off

The #48 post referred to gives great pix of how to mod the inner fender to access the rear plug.

This access point also makes easy work of starter R&R (Wires and tail hook)
 
With the little rat hole in the inner fender, you don't need to remove or do anything to the down pipe etc.

Removing the nuts that hold the glow plug tubes on cyls 4 and 6 then get your wires loose from the clamps etc.

Slide the tubes down the wires and this allows easy finger access to the wire connectors at the plugs.

There is a special tool that allows easy removal and replacement of the wires, but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ much

It is a long gizmo that slides down, captures the connector and allows it to be pulled off/pushed back on.

Glow plug R&R need not be a tough job.

Missy
 
The driver side is easily done with the rubber piece removed. On the passenger side I found it easiest just to take out the fender liner. Battery and tray can remain. There is a bolt going through the airbox (if your '96 is the same as a '99, I'm not sure though) and a nut holding the fender liner to it so you have to take out the filter to undo that one. Just hope that some of those clip on nuts (not sure the real name) that some of the bolts go to aren't rusted enough to break and spin.
 
I should also add that I was replacing the glow plug harness too and removing the fender liner made that easier. Otherwise, it's the rear glow plug that taking out the liner helps most with. The others can be done through the rubber flap if you do things in the right order.
 
I wrote a detailed post on how to add a little access hole in the inner fender that allows an easy access to the #8 plug, plus easy access to the heater hose clamps be the firewall.

For the folks that have to deal with SALT :eek: trying to unbolt the inner fender could result in broken bolts.

The inner flap area allows very easy access to the first 3 plugs on the right side, and the added rat hole does the rest.
 
I've also been recomending the access hole in the inner fender since I first did in it 1993. I used a hole saw so that a plastic grommet style plug could be snapped back in to fill the hole. Makes that job alot faster.
 
Missy Good Wench said:
I wrote a detailed post on how to add a little access hole in the inner fender that allows an easy access to the #8 plug, plus easy access to the heater hose clamps be the firewall.

For the folks that have to deal with SALT :eek: trying to unbolt the inner fender could result in broken bolts.

The inner flap area allows very easy access to the first 3 plugs on the right side, and the added rat hole does the rest.
Click to expand...

How big is the rat hole? I replaced my glows last week,I did #8 on my back.The rat hole would make it easier for next time.
 
The post has detailed instructions on how to cut the hole.
The reference points and the sizes are all there.

If you wish, you can use a hole saw and gain access.

I preferred to make a slightly larger port that allow my hand to access the area, as well as gain access to the heater hose clamps that are right here too.

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN CUTTING ANY HOLES, AS THE MAIN WIRING HARNESS TO THE ECM GOES RIGHT THROUGH THE FIREWALL VERY CLOSE IN THE AREA TO WHERE YOU WILL BE WORKING.

Missy
 
The post has detailed instructions on how to cut the hole.
The reference points and the sizes are all there.

If you wish, you can use a hole saw and gain access.

I preferred to make a slightly larger port that allow my hand to access the area, as well as gain access to the heater hose clamps that are right here too.

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN CUTTING ANY HOLES, AS THE MAIN WIRING HARNESS TO THE ECM GOES RIGHT THROUGH THE FIREWALL VERY CLOSE IN THE AREA TO WHERE YOU WILL BE WORKING.

Missy
 
turbopower6 said:
Do you have any pictures of the inner fender removal? I am getting ready to do the GP's after a winter of adventure last year! Dumb questions...did you have to remove the ps battery and tray as well as the air box etc.? I have not looked at it closely just yet.
Click to expand...

Inner fender removal is as easy as just start taking out bolts. If you have running boards or something else, it would require you to remove some of that to access the lower bolt(s), possibly. Battery tray needs unbolted, but I can't recall if it needs removed - probably does. By Missy's photos, it appears that the skirt removal might be all that is necessary. Dad did all 8 of mine about 10 years or so ago without removing a single thing, while I was working on another part of the truck.

I'm not a fan of the cutout idea, though, in any way. He's in PA, so it's just another place to introduce rust in a big way.
 
Factory running boards should be no problem. The battery tray stays attached (unless I had some missing bolts). There is a stud running from that to a nut outside the fender liner and you just remove the nut. Just get in there and start unbolting. PA rust isn't so bad compared to up here. I brought my truck from PA to NH/VT and you should see the rust after just a couple of winters!
 
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