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Because we've accumulated enough miles to re write the requirements and redact the incorrect information over time. The DS4 pump responds well to the 9-12 PSI range and the longevity of the IP depends greatly on maintaining the fuel supply volume. The FASS pump was built for the dodge VP44 IP...

My honest experience is that I wasted way too much money on stock style lift pumps over the years. Should have switched to the FASS sooner. I run a DRP02 with a 9psi spring. Have three ep158s on the shelf that all went to shit after a few thousand miles. Sent from Tapatalk

Yes un-necessary timing advance and de-fuel can happen due to the 3 Bar. Depends on the tune though for the lower RPM de-fuel. In stock tunes, the de-fuel part should only be seen on L56 (EGR) trucks since they utilized that table. I'm using MAP referenced fueling on my 12cm housing...let...

Are you tuned for the 3BAR? I forget but still see it in your signature. There's a few tables that could screw you up if not and i'm not sure who has/has not figured out how to correctly scale them because the software they are using isn't setup for it. OBDI is dumber so people get away with...

That's all in the tune. Without seeing it you can't guarantee that's 100% true. In stock form, fuel isn't boost referenced well. Thus why you see smoke when a turbo control solenoid goes out, for example (until a DTC kicks in and de-fuels)

Drive back to PA so we can street tune that new huffer!

If you do decide to dump it, make sure you do so while it's still running somewhat. If it pops an oil cooler line or blows a hole in a piston, then you are back down to scrap value. I'd come help you out if you weren't half way across the country from me.

It'd be interesting to know a few things about the DS4 fuel solenoid that I could translate into the PCM limitations and if those limitations can be removed. For example, how do the test stand control signals correlate to the maximum values allowed by the PCM? I have the ability to recompile...

OBDII in general is easier to tune out the smoke because there's 2 different tables to reference fuel and timing to MAP pressure. Nick could control the smoke more with his right foot when he want's to ; )

It'd be interesting to see if you only needed to replace/clean the Rad and cooling stack. Shouldn't have many issues cruising unloaded with a '96 cooling system. Sneak a bottle or 2 of Redline watter wetter in with your new mix. It's one of the only automotive additives I ever suggest.

That's fine in theory but the firmware doesn't know what to do with a different MAP sensor so it's a waste of money. The fuel curve 'is what it is' and the firmware is setup to use subtract from that based on low kPA readings....nowhere does it ADD fuel for more boost. There's a re-written...

It's an all new 3/8 supply with the stock return line setup all the way back still. Would have to shim the pump spring for small increments and would probably annoy me so i'm leaving it as is. Trying to spend more time on PCM hacking right now that I have it running well.

I slapped Leroy's P400 timing set in my '94 last year. Bought it as a takeoff when he did the gear drive.

Are you asking about the FASS pump? Only time you know it's running is when you turn the motor off cold and some residual oil pressure leaves it running for a few seconds. I use the OPS to activate my relay.

I'm running the max positive modification to pulse width up to 4000 RPM (DS4) as of today with a FASS DRP-02 regulated at ~9 PSI and it only drops .5 PSI once I hit 3500 RPM. It likes where it's at right now and has never run better. This is all with 3/8 lines. I have 9.5 PSI at idle and 9 PSI...

My WH1C isn't very quiet..the k47 box toned it down some after this open filter setup

Thank you for the good feedback. I'll look into replacing the 2 brass hose ends I have after the primary filter. Would be a real cheap switch to stainless for two -6 barbs

Not all tuners know the data that needs adjusted...it wasn't an area identified in most of the 'canned' tuning packages that are currently available to dealers who are doing the tuning.

FWIW, the fuel heater is to aid in water separation and usually only exists in filter housings that double as water separators. They don't have amperage to noticeably heat the fuel. I monitor fuel temps with data logging and the temps don't rise noticeably until the motor and IP are warmed up.

Yea you could install however you want. It's just pushlok hose with JIC fittings. Not really a concern with how much I drive it though.