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Balancer and Crank pulley are good to go. If you felt it, you would say "Hey you have a bad motor mount." Someone stated earlier that guys have had brand new mounts be bad. Maybe I have a bad one. Maybe it is a trans issue. Hmmm. . .

Buddy, it doesnt happen on down shifts or up shifts. Only happens when you go from zero load to med/high load quickly or if you're cruising and jump off the throttle. Feels EXACTLY like a bad motor mount. No carrier bearing on this drive shaft but I do need to check the U joints. Ive just...

Its an extended cab short bed so its a 1 piece drive shaft. I suppose it could be a U joint. Ill have to crawl under there an have a look.

Just like above states I have what feels like a bad motor mount, but they are both spankin new. If you are cruising at any speed and chop the throttle I get a nasty thud that definitely feels like a motor mount. Also happens when adjusting cruise control. I have not replaced the trans mount...

Yup another name for computer. Thanks I'm excited to see how it runs.

It lives! Fresh PMD on the heat sink and in the bumper. Surprisingly not leaking from the rear main either. Took it for a quick spin and it runs great. Should have my confuser back from Heath tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for all of your help. Probably still be pulling my hair out without...

Really?! The PMD could overheat that quick!? I do have a spare so I can try that too. Ill get the Rs up to 2K when it fires again.

After I cranked it again a few times and it didnt fire, I unplugged the CPS. No change. I did not unplug the OS. With the exception of only hitting on 6 or 7 it sounded great. It was smoking grey/white. Not sure about L/P pressure. PMD is temporarily sitting atop the wiring harness as I...

Any insight? I surrendered after it wouldn't fire.

Well after numerous sessions of cracking injectors loose/pulling glow plugs, it popped off. Sounded like it was hitting on 7 out of 8. Ran for about a minute and a half before suddenly stalling. Also noticed that I had a leak. Oil leak. Out of the inspection cover. Rear seal popped...

Its been about 6-8 months since it was put together. Tried that. No dice. Ive got to throw in the towel for the day. Got family stuff to do. One thing I have not eliminated is valve timing. I cannot find the timing mark on the cover to compare to the mark on the balancer.

OK dowel on IP is in the slotted hole in the cam gear. IP was actually rotated a bit too far toward the drivers side when compared to old engine and pictures in the thread. Moved it back toward pass side and still no fire. Should I try going further toward the drivers side ? I don't...

Got the link above. Nevermind

IP was already installed as was everything else. I can pull the oil fill to check on the dowel. In the process of trying to get to the last nut on the IP to tweak timing. Can you post a link to the picture/thread? Thanks

Ive got a single stat. Ill have to see if I have an old 15 MM to torch. @3500, thats what I'm kind of nervous about. I don't know who built the engine. I bought the parts truck and its fresh engine (never installed) from a business that had changed hands and the new owner didn't have any...

Any tricks to cracking those nuts loose with all the doo dads bolted to the engine? Or should I start yanking parts off to get to them?

IP not timed right meaning base timing? As in adjusting pump position on cover? Or TDCO?

By the way the pump is from a 98 1 ton. I did not compare pump part numbers but everything plugged in fine and dandy.

- Year: _96_____ - Truck model and class (ie: c2500) ___K1500______ - Automatic or Standard _____A/T_____ - Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 240K miles - Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) __Engine, I/P, glows, F-intake FTB 4" exhaust injectors _________ - Model: ‘S’...

Got it. I guess in my head I was thinking the waste gate was more than cracked while producing boost.