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The Dryer/accumulator is the silver cylinder on the firewall at the passengers side. Should be a line into it, out of it through the firewall, and the low pressure switch is installed there. Yes. An air compressor, Blow gun, and a bottle of flush or just isopropyl alcohol. I...

Don't forget to ohm out the lead from the passengers side battery to the terminal block on the passengers side firewall, there is a fuse-able link in it.

I assume the spring width changed on all the newer trucks? Did the hub to hub change?

China Tool and Freight This will work if your not going to be doing it every day. Did you check to see if there was anything in the system prior to topping it off? So long as there is always net positive pressure in the system, you should be fine to just top it off. I always had trouble...

If I recall correctly, the low pressure cutout is at the compressor, the switch at the dryer/accumulator is the high pressure cutoff. Whats the high side reading?

You have to pull a vacuum on the system before charging it if its been sitting any length of time. Air is a non condensable, your compressor cant make it change phase into a liquid, so the AC will never get as cold as if you got all the air out. The smaller the system, the more sensitive it...

Heres a snap of current run, everything plugged in. Snapshot created 6/7/2010 7:40:11 PM __________________________________________________________________ ENGINE SENSORS ¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ Engine run time: 00:37:28 Boost pressure...

Its about 10 gallons of year old #2 diesel with a can of seafoam in it. I Have a clear vinyl tube on the IP return line, and I dont see any bubbles. Fuel looks a little yellow. Not dark or opaque. Removing the filter on the optical harness did nothing. It runs with either the Optical OR CPS...

As of january this year, only 1998 and newer diesels have to do the smog test in kalifornia.

When running timeset, desired goes to 0, measured drops to 2.8 On a side note, now it wont run more than 2 or 3 seconds at a time with the crank sensor plugged in. Measured timing changes as I increase RPM with crank position sender unplugged. With optical unplugged it runs great, but...

With the crank sensor unplugged I am showing desired timing 0, measured timing 6.1 Let me go plug in and fire it up see what she says. I sure wish my internet worked clear out in the driveway where its parked... ):h

So after idling for 20 mins and no stalling with cps unplugged, I am guessing its a safe bet its bad. Will see if I can chase one down. NAPA here told me its listed as obsolete part and they cant get me one, guess I need to check with the stealer.

with the optic sensor unplugged I am getting codes 17 18 and 35. Showing desired timing of 14 and measured of 4.5 with CPS unplugged was only showing code 19. when I shut down I do get a 1/8" or so air bubble in the injection pump return line, dont see any with it running. Update- got it to...

Eprom reads : 4244 BMSD 0152 GMTDScan shows PCM Cal ID : 145 With the crank sensor unplugged I am showing desired timing 0, measured timing 6.1 With crank sensor plugged in I am showing desired 4.5, measured bounces between 4.1 and...

Ok, I was having trouble finding what code 18 was, as '18' is to short and is excluded from searches. I believe I was reading "actual injection pump timing". Will follow and report. GMTDScan reports TDCO as -1.41 Showing 4.5 PSI at idle, my gauge is between the IP and the Filter, not...

Problem: Explain your problem in concise language (ie: Cranks but won’t fire). Cranks, fires, runs, and then dies at random. Throws a code 18 when it dies. Demographics: The IP is a 5068, with a matching PCM. Its an 'F' engine with the 'GM Goodwrench Crate Motor" stickers on the valve covers...

I gave 1800 for my 94 Blazer, the batterys were dead, and the PMD didnt have a resistor in it, and the 4x4 actuator was bad.... but it only has 9k miles on the IP and 40k miles on the transmision.

I called the guy, the reserve is like 6500. I mean it looks nice and all.... but seriously?

After removing the entire harness and tracing it out, it looks like the bulbs on the floor lever are controlled by the switch in the front axle above the actuator. Assuming mine was wired right to begin with.... the duct tape and cheapo crimps don't look 'factory' to me.

Anyone tapped the FFM with a 1/4" pipe tap as opposed to an 1/8"? Just wondering if theres enough material there.