Search results

I have heard from a few guys that are using the "non water" coolant in their 6.5's to help eliminate the steam pockets in the heads. The non water coolant will not flash to steam and stays liquid. Never used it, but the idea sounds like a solid one.

At one time I thought about an electric fan clutch, but never got it past the thinking stage very far. If the thermal clutch will come on at a low enough temp, then the system will work fine. I want that fan to roar if the temp of the engine reaches 200 F I am told that the Hayden Severe Duty...

The 180 F is all I run. The 180 starts to open at 180 and is fully open by about 190. The entire idea is to get the coolant flowing through the radiator as soon as possible. These engines run hot anyway and other than the emissions, the engine is better off to be run a tad cooler. If the fan...

Yup, my thoughts exactly. Gonna look way cool. Thinking about redoing the headache rack so we can fetch a set of 5 inch stacks up the corners. :thumbsup:

You do a good solder job, it will last until you don't need the rig any more. The lead, brass, copper will do fine with the bio.

I have never seen one like it, and I have seen a butt ton of farm trucks with flat beds. Son in law spotted it on craigs list, and as they say, that was that. It's a coastal piece, so has some rust, but not bad. Also the water all runs to the center :WTF:

Gotta love that rust eh :( I do like living in the Pac NW with 30 year old rigs still mainly rust free.

Wash the tank out with loads of water and add some dawn dish soap. After you wash it good open all the ports and insert an air hose in it and blow out any remaining fumes. Refill with water up close but not touching the area to be fixed. Scare up a piece of 1/16" copper or brass sheet and cut...

yup :thumbsup:

Ahhhh yesss, but not everyone is wanting to rebuild the front end.

Hard learned I might add too. I had to let some blood and shed hide before I learned this stuff The first starter was an OMFG, then I got to snooping and figured it out. From then on it was an obvious way of doing business.

Going on my Dahoooooley (the one in my avitar) The outer edge of the bed is higher than the center by about 4 inches like a V For hauling hay, so the rows tend to tilt inward If you look at the view from the rear you can see the V shape to the bed, with the center being higher.

As I read the various threads about anything that requires access to the sides of the engine in the GMT400 trucks, I constantly read horror stories of "I CAN'T GET TO THIS OR THAT" The inner fender access port behind the front wheels that has the little rubber flap on it is/was put there for...

The only bolt is the one on the side of the block, and its easy as pie, with no need to loose hide. Remove the LH front wheel tire (Support truck) remove rubber flap on inner fender and the bolt in question is in plain view. Use a long extension and a wiggle socket on you 3/8 drive ratchet and...

My Son in Law has been talking about us replacing the fat butt pickup bed with a flat bed for better usability around the ranch. The other day he called me with an ad he spotted on craigs list. Well it was not too far away (2 hours) so we saddled up and headed out yesterday to get a good look...

There also a little odd shaped plate on the side of the IP that has two screws in it. The little plate looks like a little mountain laying on it's side. With the IP off the engine you can easily access the adjustment screw without tearing the top off. Just remove the cover, then turn the IP...

Pretty much spot on. To give you some good history. When Banks came out with their Turbo kits for the old Square body trucks, the recommended adjustment on the fuel screw was 1/4 turn, and this was perfect to get the turbo delivering the extra power desired. Giving a 1/2 turn should be...

Can't get any better than that. Down in the valley the temps can reach 200 F ++

That's about it Three nuts and one bolt to get the pump off, pretty easy. Room is a good thing :smile5:

An optimizer 6500 would be sweet. Basically that's what I ended up with. AMG block with AMG heads from a P400 Scat crank with Original set of GM pistons on recon'd rods. P400 would be sweet. Ya hafta do some massaging to get the pan to clear the Front Diffy though.