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As of this morning everything is back together including the new fan clutch.Just waiting on the lower control arms to arrive and then everything will be new up front in regard to steering and suspension.

This morning I removed the steering box assembly from the same 96 Chevy truck to allow installation of a new pitman arm.The old pitman arm was sloppy I have to say so a Napa fleet brand replacement was put into place.Just a matter now of getting the box back up into position. The snap-on pitman...

Last evening I purchased a couple wiper linkages for one of my K1500 trucks.Both trucks have moderate wear and tear on these parts so I figured a couple linkages would be handy to have and I’ll change them out when the weather improves.Total cost wasn’t much.Something like $50.

I have new red prothane brand bushings in the upper control arms with Delphi ball joints at the moment.I do have the red urethane bushings to fit the lowers as well.I would prefer those over the factory bushings for sure. I guess when I installed the lower ball joints some rust must have...

Added to the order was a couple bump stops made by energy suspension.

Sorry guys I got that mixed up…lol.I must have had a buffering moment.It happens🤷 When the truck was heading upward the overrunning clutch teeth would fall back hitting the flexplate.

I figured I may as well buy the lower passenger side control arm for the same truck.This one is coming from Amazon as well.Total cost was $250.

I’ve seen the same thing happen as well.Happened upon a 95 Chevy 2wd with 4.3 vortec engine.Whenever the truck was heading downward the overrunning clutch teeth in the starter would hit the flexplate and if the truck was heading upward there would be no noise.

This evening I installed a new idler arm and idler arm bracket on my 96 Chevy K1500.The last part that needs replacing is the pitman arm.Hoping in the next day or two to have that installed. Although I did see a couple small holes in the lower control arm on the driver side.I didnt want to weld...

Mine is starting to drop as well in a couple areas on my 96 gmc truck.I’ll have to get it fixed sometime this summer.

Thanks Big T.I have the Napa fleet brand pitman arm and idler arm.Looks to be way better built than their proformer line. I used a product similar to fluid film in around the back of the upper control arms where the bushings are.I figured it would be easier to apply the product on the chassis...

A few nights ago I finished up the driver side ball joint's on my 96 Chevy K1500 with the 6.5 along with tie rods,cv axles on both sides among other things like control arm bushings,eccentric bolt kit,wheel bearing and new rotors from Amazon.Acdelco brake pads were used as well.Thedirt/dust seal...

It’s probably your only shot of making it work.I would give it a go anyway.

EBay has the replacement foam for the bucket seats for those trucks.I changed the foam in my seats on my 96 gmc truck.It worked out beautifully.Very firm and stable after everything was replaced.The lower foam membrane was $150 each.

The last time I had an alignment done on my 96 gmc truck I found that the upper control arm nuts were loose.I could spin them off with my fingers.The shop didn’t tighten up the nuts.Absolutely ridiculous. After that I aligned it myself and put a torpedo level on the rotor while allowing the...

Don’t forget to install the oil pressure switch.Wouldnt want you to fire it up and pump oil over everything and ruin it.

That’ll work.Just go slow and steady👍

The retainer in my opinion is only needed when you remove the oil pump drive so the oil pump shaft wont lift and fall into the oil pan or get lodged someplace where it should not be. You could try using some heavy grease on the end of the shaft before you insert it into the oil pump drive...

Looks like the hex is indeed worn.New sealed power shafts are available from Rockauto.You’ll also need the nylon retainer that clips upon the oil pump.It prevents the shaft from being pulled upwards when removing the oil pump drive or vacuum pump units on older 6.2 engines.

Do you have a small gap under the oil pump drive?I was thinking you could use one of those cv axle puller tools that’s shaped like a C that guys use to pull stubborn cv axles.Thread on the slide hammer and it might do the job your looking for. EDIT:Looks like you already have it out…lol.I was...