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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Big T said:
I call this the “Hillary Step” of Lower Control Arm removal. Driver’s side rear bolt is impeded by the CV axle flange on the front differential. Passenger side is not. Have to undo, lower and pry the diff over to the passenger side to clear that rear bolt. It is like a limbo dance.


View attachment 96879View attachment 96880View attachment 96881
Click to expand...
I did a lower driver control arm removal on my 96 K1500 but it had the stamped steel version.I didn’t have any problems with the clearance getting the bolts out past the differential.Maybe I got lucky for some reason.I reinstalled new moog AWD astrovan control arms.I like them.They fit perfectly.

Maybe your flange on the differential where the cv axle bolts upon it could be larger than what I have.
 
dieselolds said:
I did a lower driver control arm removal on my 96 K1500 but it had the stamped steel version.I didn’t have any problems with the clearance getting the bolts out past the differential.Maybe I got lucky for some reason.I reinstalled new moog AWD astrovan control arms.I like them.They fit perfectly.

Maybe your flange on the differential where the cv axle bolts upon it could be larger than what I have.
Click to expand...
Or, difference between K1500 GM400 vs K2500 (IIRK BigT upgraded to GM800 too)
 
I was surprised, tapered bolt popped right loose from knuckle.
I did have a fair size pry bar onnit but usually have to rap on the knuckle where the bolt goes through to get them to pop loose.
The nut wasnt real tight too.
An alignment shop installed those for me.
IMG_5316.jpeg
 
MrMarty51 said:
I was surprised, tapered bolt popped right loose from knuckle.
I did have a fair size pry bar onnit but usually have to rap on the knuckle where the bolt goes through to get them to pop loose.
The nut wasnt real tight too.
An alignment shop installed those for me.
View attachment 96889
Click to expand...
You have the OEM original riveted on upper ball joint.
 
New ball joint hath arrivedeth.
IMG_5334.jpeg
Remembered to route the hose and wire on the proper journey.
IMG_5335.jpeg
And back together.
The Chiltons book says torque for those small #8 10.9 nuts with 1.25 thread is 52 ft. Lbs. no way. Looked at my list of torque charts and it tells me that max tirque for that bolt, with dry threads, is 40 ft. Lbs. and so I settled at 36 ft. Lbs.
I did try one at 52 and stripped the nut. I used the nut that was original to hold down that bracket, torqued it to 36 and it held mighty fine.
All together and greased.
IMG_5336.jpeg
Tires/weeels installed and lug nutz torqued.
Backed it out of the garage and around the block to get everything settled in.
Pulled into my parking place, started backing out, steer weeel cranked sharp right, no more pop noises after several tries.
I do believe that this is fixed.
 
MrMarty51 said:
New ball joint hath arrivedeth.
View attachment 96907
Remembered to route the hose and wire on the proper journey.
View attachment 96908
And back together.
The Chiltons book says torque for those small #8 10.9 nuts with 1.25 thread is 52 ft. Lbs. no way. Looked at my list of torque charts and it tells me that max tirque for that bolt, with dry threads, is 40 ft. Lbs. and so I settled at 36 ft. Lbs.
I did try one at 52 and stripped the nut. I used the nut that was original to hold down that bracket, torqued it to 36 and it held mighty fine.
All together and greased.
View attachment 96909
Tires/weeels installed and lug nutz torqued.
Backed it out of the garage and around the block to get everything settled in.
Pulled into my parking place, started backing out, steer weeel cranked sharp right, no more pop noises after several tries.
I do believe that this is fixed.
Click to expand...
Are those Mevotech ball joints?

I was doing the same job (upper ball joints) yesterday:

IMG_1638.jpeg

Today I ream the knuckles to fit tie rods and ball joint and it goes back together. Already reamed the passenger side knuckle for tie rod. This time set the depth so I could just get the cotter pin through with the castle nut on snug.
 
Last edited:
Big T said:
Are those Mevotech ball joints?

I was doing the same job (upper ball joints) yesterday:

View attachment 96910
Click to expand...
No.
Only parts store that was open on Friday was Oryllies and they had Precision and some other unheard of brand.
I had previously used Precision brand U-Joints and those held up for many years so I had them get in the Precision brand.
I hope these are as good as the U-Joint i installed years ago.
I did look at the box for COO but didnt have on my cheater glasses and by the time I got my coat removed forgot to look at that.
When I get to the garage I’ll check for the COO.
 
I had over reamed the depth on the passenger side knuckle and it ended up “egged out” due to the looseness.

IMG_1641.jpeg

I’ve already done the tie rod ream on the passenger side knuckle. Set the depth with with the castle nut snugged down to where the cotter pin just fits through.
 
Big T said:
Are those Mevotech ball joints?

I was doing the same job (upper ball joints) yesterday:

View attachment 96910

Today I ream the knuckles to fit tie rods and ball joint and it goes back together. Already reamed the passenger side knuckle for tie rod. This time set the depth so I could just get the cotter pin through with the castle nut on snug.
Click to expand...
What brand ball joints did You install ? ? ? ?
Now we should check the ball joints about every six months and see which brand wears the quickest. 🤷😹
 
This is where it becomes counter intuitive. I need to ream the lower ball joint hole a bit deeper to clear the CV axle above. Probably the thickness of a thick washer. Go too deep and I need washers under the castle nut so the cotter pin goes through the nut.

 
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