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1994 K3500 extended cab dually

ak diesel driver said:
That doesn't look like a rust belt truck to me.
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I think it was taken care of pretty well. I had to replace a floor pan and a cab corner, and one of the fenders is a bit rusty, but overall it’s pretty solid. It has a dealership tag on the tailgate from a local dealership, so I’m pretty sure it’s been around here its whole life.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
@n8in8or , I've got a camper here for you to stay in while you help me with my 93 when ya get time ..😁
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I don't have a camper, but I might buy one.
I'd definitely pay whatever I could afford.
I'm not sure what shop rate is around here anymore. But that's my 2nd option.
If I could find roving repair or a shop to do the work
 
I had last week off, so my plan was to sandblast the frame, then paint the frame and hopefully start reassembly. I didn’t expect to have to spend 30 hours just sandblasting, so that’s pretty much all I got done. It was a lot of pieces though, so I guess it makes sense. I spent about 20 hours with the pressure pot and then around another 10 on the parts that would fit in my cabinet.

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I noticed that 3 of the body mounts were rusted pretty thin, so I decided to repair those. I made some large “washers” out of 11 gage steel using hole saws, then cut out the bad part using the plasma, then finally welded them in and ground them smooth.

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This week is going to be a lot of parts hanging and metal prep so I can finally paint next weekend. I’ll be happy when this is done.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Looks like you know your way around metal. Im liking what I see and wish we were closer, have you considered add in some metal stiffening across the "C" frame in stress areas, basically making it "square tube/box beam" , I did that on a rotten frame repair on my 1990 GMC C1500s frame.
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Wow, I haven't seen your name on here in a while, though I probably just missed you since I don't "hang out" in the other areas as much as I used to.

I would like to fully box the frame, but that would require me re-engineering all of the crossmembers as well, and that isn't something I'm interested in tackling with this truck. For how I'm using the truck, I feel confident in the factory design so I will just leave it that way. My main focus with this truck is removing the years of decay from it mechanically and then prep it so it hopefully lasts me the rest of my life with good attention and maintenance.
 
I was looking through past posts in this thread to see if I had replaced the rear wheel bearings already or not (I had not). I noticed this from way back in page 2.

n8in8or said:
Progress has been slow lately. I finally got the rear brakes finished up last night.

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One f the axle tubes was scored where the seal rode on it.

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So I installed a Spedi-sleeve and it was good as new.

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I had an unusual delay on Sunday. As I was looking at the brakes before tearing them apart I noticed a part missing - the parking brake strut rod. It was missing on both sides. I thought you couldn’t buy them aftermarket, but I found that Dorman makes them. I managed to find one locally and get one of the brakes together, but I had to order the second one and finally got that together Monday night.

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After that I finished all of the rear brake lines. I just used some coated steel tubing I had in stock already instead of buying more of the nickel copper tube. Eventually this truck will get fully torn apart and I’ll do all new nickel copper lines at that time.

I got the old exhaust cut off, put the rear wheels on and turned the truck around. Time to tackle the front end of the truck.

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Part of me wants to laugh because I knew 5 years ago that I’d be doing what I’m doing today, but part of me is also proud to be following through with the end goal for the truck.
 
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