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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Really debating on just keeping my SD plates while back in NYS, i DO NOT want to deal with vehicle inspections or registration fees.

Anyone here do the out of state registration? Its common practice in NYC as our insurance rates are abysmal. Theres tons of Jersey and CT plates in the city for a reason.

But what do you guys say, for reference, I use GEICO and my current policy (full coverage) is $78 a month

I agree with inspections for the general ignorant public who will operate things till they don’t move anymore. Aka break and send operators off the road. Working brake lights are nice on the vehicle ahead of you. Seriously!

Now. Having experienced a governor failure that came close to scattering a 6.2 at 4300RPM+ during a SNAP emissions test. It did severe damage and only bent valves kept it from obtaining more RPM… Didn’t run well after that.

Just saying, out of concern for those around at an emissions test station while asking a 20+ year old engine and governor to uh work, the Montana LLC route is more of a PIA than the inconvenience you would avoid. LLC requires yearly paperwork to be filed with the state. It’s a company vehicle should one be bothered about out of state plates and gets tax written off as a business expense.

What has you in such a … Um area? Lotsa other places one could be.
 
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Is it fighting you to go forward in a sharp turn or is the steering wheel fighting no wanting to turn?
Fighting foward on a shap turn
Called me boy, burban bro
Put him on speaker as i did the following:

Turn all the way to right and the left, go around in a circle 3 times

Apparently it's just the tires are slipping, its literally that, he said if the gear box was going out or skipping a tooth that I would have heard it when I did that test, and the steering wheel wouldnt have re centered itself.

Maybe its all the salt and stuff on the roads, tons of snow as of late
 
I agree with inspections for the general ignorant public who will operate things till they don’t move anymore. Aka break and send operators off the road. Working brake lights are nice on the vehicle ahead of you. Seriously!

Now. Having experienced a governor failure that came close to scattering a 6.2 at 4300RPM+ during a SNAP emissions test. It did severe damage and only bent valves kept it from obtaining more RPM… Didn’t run well after that.

Just saying, out of concern for those around at an emissions test station while asking a 20+ year old engine and governor to uh work, the Montana LLC route is more of a PIA than the inconvenience you would avoid. LLC requires yearly paperwork to be filed with the state. It’s a company vehicle should one be bothered about out of state plates and gets tax written off as a business expense.

What has you in such a … Um area? Lotsa other places one could be.
Well sir im born and raised in NYC, though currently in Long Island. I also just got out the service, only place I have to call home is nyc
 
Boys, imagine this on our 6.2 motors? (and vehicle in general)

 
Boys, imagine this on our 6.2 motors? (and vehicle in general)

But I want to see into combustion chambers.
Is there a GP/video camera option ? ? ? ? 😹😹😹
 
Boys,
If i somehow have a pinhole sized leak in my aluminum radiator....oh boy.

AluKuhler Radiator for 1982-1993... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4DQ5FB2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Why im saying this, ive checked the hoses, clamps, its not leaming from there, yet every now and then I catch a few drops coming from underneath the radiator. If it actually is a pinhole sized leak....then what? I bought this radiator in 2024, its literally new.
 
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how often are you having to top off the coolant per miles and how much? if there is a pin hole on the outside where it's visible it can be repaired by someone that can weld aluminum or a good radiator shop.

have you verified that it's not coming from the cap or overflow tube? aluminum radiators are great at keeping thing cool as they shed heat a lot faster than any other type of radiator, but that also comes with a drawback. aluminum is one material that expands and contracts the most during heat cycles, they tend to form cracks at the weakest places and where seams are welded. places like where the core tubes are attached to the tanks and where bung fittings and hose nipples are attached.

with you being in an area that gets mighty colder coupled with the rigs normal operating temps, your radiator is subject to wider temp swings from cold to hot. you might want to get you a cheap pressure tester and perform two tests. pressurizing your cooling system both when cold and when hot (operating temp) looking for leaks while also watching the pressure gauge on the tester. it's best to do this with the fan shroud removed so that you can see just about everywhere on the radiator.
 
if it doesn't leak much, like mine where I have to top off maybe 1/2 a gallon in about a month's time, you can add some stop leak or just leave it alone and keep a jug or two in the back for when you need it while checking levels every so often. Just remember when winter is coming, do a drain and refill with antifreeze if you are topping off with water throughout the year!

Just be careful with stop leaks. some can clog up the passages in the radiator if not kept full at all times. some also don't work well with coolant and most don't say this on the labels, they only muddy up things and make the coolant look like rusty water from the creek!
 
I remember when I was in Chicago during the deep freeze of January how it just trickled. Its weird, when it runs hot I see drops, when its cold (just started it cold) sometimes nothing or maybe a drop or two.

On that note, its also inconsistent. Ive noticed days or weeks where ive been on the interstate for an hour, I park up and no leak whatsoever. It drove me and my 454 suburban bro nuts.

I often top it off every few weeks, its not super low when I do so, it takes half a jug at most. When it is topped off, thats when I notice its more prone to leaks (granted, I fill it to the brim)

As for the overflow tank, I notice the cap does have some coolant on it, but every time I checked the cap its tightly on it

(Engine bay for reference)
20250810_185815.jpg

Either way, thoughts on the brand/radiator itself?
 
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