• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

1994 K3500 extended cab dually

Nice work! the only thing I would be worried about for the future is the flex joints. when the day comes they start leaking and you need to replace. iirc they make them with v band flanges so that they could easily be replaced, wonder if you have clearance for that though.

Though on my 95 I just about had no choice to cut my down pipe and splice in a 4" steel flex pipe to alleviate the stress and from it banging the frame to the 4" exhaust kit I installed. It's been on there for a while now, all rusted but still holding up LOL. your stainless should last for years to come!
As long as I make my cuts straight, it won’t be bad to replace them in the future if the need ever comes.
 
It took 2 days, but I finally have the post-turbo exhaust done (mostly).

I installed an FTE Diesel muffler/resonator on it again because the sound was great and I had zero drone in the cab. It’s 409 stainless.

IMG_2258.jpegIMG_2259.jpeg

All tubing is 304 stainless. I started TIG welding all the joints. Oof. That took so long and I wasn’t happy with the results - not only did my beads look like crap, but I’m also not set up to backfill the tubes with argon, so I wasn’t getting great corrosion resistance anyway…..so I ended up welding all the joints with carbon steel MIG and was much happier with the results. The downpipe starts 3” and transitions to 4” before the flex joint. I left the end of the exhaust unfinished so I can make the tip align with the bed how I want and not have to rework it after the bed is installed…..I learned that lesson on the red truck.

IMG_2261.jpegIMG_2262.jpegIMG_2263.jpegIMG_2264.jpegIMG_2266.jpeg
 
I sandblasted the manifolds and hit all the welds on the rest of the pipes with a stainless wire wheel. After that I painted the manifolds, crossover pipe, down pipe and resonator/muffler with KBS Xtreme Temperature Coating. And finally I wrapped the crossover and downpipe with DEI header wrap. I installed the manifolds with Stage 8 header bolts so they won’t loosen up. I also wrapped the starter with some heatshield material I had in stock already. It’s ready for the cab to be installed now.

IMG_2307.jpegIMG_2308.jpegIMG_2309.jpegIMG_2310.jpegIMG_2311.jpegIMG_2312.jpegIMG_2313.jpeg
 
Nice!!

question, how low does that crossover hang (from the ground) I assume you are planning for suspension lift or tall tires for offroad shenanigans.
 
I’d really like to have the hot side coated in this stuff, but it isn’t cheap so I’d need to make sure my design all works how I want before I make that investment. If I am happy with it, I could blast the stuff and send it to them or make a new setup and send it to them for coating. This way I have heat containment without wrap that will trap moisture between it and the tubing. I was turned on to this stuff when I was working on building up the 460 in the Class C motor home we had - it’s supposed to do a great job of taming heat when applied to headers in that application.

 
Got the cab on today. Took longer than I anticipated, but the task is done.

IMG_2315.jpegIMG_2316.jpegIMG_2317.jpegIMG_2318.jpegIMG_2319.jpegIMG_2320.jpeg

Unfortunately I found that the downpipe hits the cab - even when it’s detached from the turbo. I thought I was going to have tons of room with where I put it and have the best heater hose situation I’ve ever had, but I guess I screwed up, so downpipe mods upcoming.

IMG_2321.jpegIMG_2322.jpeg
 
Nice work! wonder if you were to custom make a sharp 90 with flanges on both sides, then tweak the down pipe if that would give you some extra clearance.


something I have always wondered... on these gmt400's what it would take to convert to a short bed. I keep picturing in my head of my 93 CC LB getting a short bed.
 
Nice work! wonder if you were to custom make a sharp 90 with flanges on both sides, then tweak the down pipe if that would give you some extra clearance.


something I have always wondered... on these gmt400's what it would take to convert to a short bed. I keep picturing in my head of my 93 CC LB getting a short bed.
I’m going to mockup the core support and inner fender, plus put the AC line in place so I can truly see what my envelope is and then optimize the downpipe to fit. I’m still shocked how tight it is. I think the way I did the #8 tube ate into my space more than I understood.
 
Back
Top