FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I was wondering what is the total length of that trans and t-case "if you can." Thanks
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
99 Suburban 6.5 to 5.9 Cummins Swap
- Thread starter usanumber1
- Start date
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
I measure approx 46.5” from outside of bellhousing to end of slipyoke shaft.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that!
1999gmc
Active Member
Pics of my truck?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Yes
1999gmc
Active Member
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Very nice!
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
nice indeed definetly a cali truck
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
I am having some trouble with the installation of the engine into the SSOR motor mounts, information is detailed in the thread linked below.
Adventure Vehicles NW vs Autoworld Motor Mounts
I got one side of my SSOR mounts installed last night. Driver side mount is in and connected to Block, used “long” mount for the driver, but it is a solid 1”+ horizontal gap before the holes will line up. Am I doing this wrong?
www.thetruckstop.us
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Only other thing I can think of is that "the mount plates position on the mounting pads need to be relocated lower that would bring them in closer to one another making up for the gap while lowering the Cummins some."
Make sure the Cummins is level right to left too..............
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Any update, or?
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
Nothing really yet. I talked to Paul at SSOR, he said the distance from top hole on the motor mount frame pad to the other was approx 22'. My engine is in, and it's a pain in the ass to get in there alone, and I haven't really had the time to spend some real time on it since the weekend. However, I did measure it from hole to block mounting surface on both sides. I got approx 5.5" driver, and approx 6.5" on passenger, with the width of the block at that waistline at approx 10.5", that's 22.5". I understand that's not a totally accurate measurement, but it's all I've been able to get. I ran a line down the head covers and it appears to be center of the engine bay.
I'm really unsure how it could have spread out a full inch, unless the 6.5 that was inside before was holding it together? I'm thinking a spacer may be a solution. I'm calling Paul later today when I have a chance to talk.
I'm really unsure how it could have spread out a full inch, unless the 6.5 that was inside before was holding it together? I'm thinking a spacer may be a solution. I'm calling Paul later today when I have a chance to talk.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I see you cut the mounting pads on the chassis quite a bit so a spacer would be the best option. I reexamined your image and it looks like there is no space left to drill lower on the pad...............
Last edited:
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
I cut the pads along the line prescribed by all instructions I’ve seen. The mounts are simply pushed as far forward as possible. Here’s a better pic.
Attachments
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
The gusset is impressive and will more than hold everything in place the x-member pipe is smart too.
From the images IMO a spacer would be the best option to place mount where it needs to be
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
trans cooler:
the 6.5 had a transcooler in the rad, and then a secondary in the cooling stack. With my new dodge radiator, I'm trying to decide how to tackle this. I have considered a primary in the cooling stack and then a secondary Derale with fan under the the cab.
How has everyone tackled this?
the 6.5 had a transcooler in the rad, and then a secondary in the cooling stack. With my new dodge radiator, I'm trying to decide how to tackle this. I have considered a primary in the cooling stack and then a secondary Derale with fan under the the cab.
How has everyone tackled this?
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
The general idea of the in radiator trans fluid heat-exchanger is to cool trans fluid leaving the torque converter to the enging coolants temp then the aux does the rest. However; I colder climates the heat-exchanger helps to bring trans fluid temps up to operating levels.
Stock or elevated stall will heat your fluid fast and high and general consensus for any diesel is low stall below peak torque rpm whic results in much lower fluid temps.
Since I had trans failure I lost two (2) BIG B&M HiTec fin/late coolers w/fans "yes I has reversed flushed them three (3) times but I'm not going to risk using them with this big bucks build."
So now what cooler would fit the bill for rejecting the most BTU's this brings me to BIG COOLERS. The HAYDEN 1290 is a good start IMO.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Knowing your fluid coolant flow GPM is important when deciding on any cooler. So, "normal" flow @ idle in gear, flow at cruise without TCC, flow at cruise with TCC are your targets. Restrictions are your enemy and usually hidden in many aftermarket coolers then any trans temp thermostats or additional trans fluid filters externally mounted without a bypass "the filter should be 22/25 micron and a bypass is required mounted before cooler (s)."
As an example my build;
After some research I found that Sonnax™ puts the 47/48RE normal cooler flow at IDLE DRIVE at .09 GPM, at CRUISE TCC OFF cooler flow is 1.9 GPM, CRUISE TCC APPLY cooler flow is 3.2 GPM, and CRUISE TCC CANCEL cooler flow drops back to 1.9 GPM.
NOTE: Anything over 4.0 GPM may cause over-heat condition as rapid flow of fluid through cooler (s) decreases heat dissipation.
As an example my build;
After some research I found that Sonnax™ puts the 47/48RE normal cooler flow at IDLE DRIVE at .09 GPM, at CRUISE TCC OFF cooler flow is 1.9 GPM, CRUISE TCC APPLY cooler flow is 3.2 GPM, and CRUISE TCC CANCEL cooler flow drops back to 1.9 GPM.
NOTE: Anything over 4.0 GPM may cause over-heat condition as rapid flow of fluid through cooler (s) decreases heat dissipation.
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
what intercooler pipes are y'all using? I got the OEM ones from a 94-98 but I'm using the 03-04 manifold so the turbo is down and back. Will this be a custom pipe on the passenger side?
usanumber1
Well-Known Member
Also the ABS module is interfering with the routing of the driverside intercooler pipe, so I'm bypassing the ABS system altogether. Before you get all up in arms, the ABS is already non-functioning, it went the way of the dinosaurs when I put a 60 under the front. Currently the ABS module is unplugged, so I'm just going to remove lots of the brakeline spaghetti and use a proportioning valve. I ordered this kit, I'll report back on it's fitment when it arrives monday.
