99 Suburban 6.5 to 5.9 Cummins Swap

[FellowTraveler]

Also the ABS module is interfering with the routing of the driverside intercooler pipe, so I'm bypassing the ABS system altogether. Before you get all up in arms, the ABS is already non-functioning, it went the way of the dinosaurs when I put a 60 under the front. Currently the ABS module is unplugged, so I'm just going to remove lots of the brakeline spaghetti and use a proportioning valve. I ordered this kit, I'll report back on it's fitment when it arrives monday.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-14248

A round to oval and back to round pipe is used in that spot.............
You can get ABS rings for the 60.

 

[usanumber1]

A round to oval and back to round pipe is used in that spot.............

Explain please. I ordered the prop valve kit, not the master cyl.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Yesterday I got ahold of Paul at SSOR, and he'll be making

Explain please. I ordered the prop valve kit, not the master cyl.

ABS control unit is cleared using a round to oval and back to round pipe Spintech in Cali makes them.

 

[usanumber1]

Ah, gotcha. thanks.

 

[usanumber1]

I talked to Paul at SSOR yesterday, he'll be making me a spacer for the engine. He has been more than helpful in resolving whatever knocked my passenger side motor mount pad out of whack.

 

[Will L.]

Something that many folks don’t do is relocating the abs or other brake lines when making modifications. Extending the lines and moving them out other way helps with fitting components and working on the rig afterwards.

flex lines out of the master to proportioning valve against the firewall and lines tucked down from there is so nice to be out of the way. Having the brake lines coil and float in mid air and loosing tons of space around it is only helpful for the production line. If you are going to modify the lines, I suggest looking into correcting all of them under the hood.

 

[usanumber1]

Something that many folks don’t do is relocating the abs or other brake lines when making modifications. Extending the lines and moving them out other way helps with fitting components and working on the rig afterwards.

flex lines out of the master to proportioning valve against the firewall and lines tucked down from there is so nice to be out of the way. Having the brake lines coil and float in mid air and loosing tons of space around it is only helpful for the production line. If you are going to modify the lines, I suggest looking into correcting all of them under the hood.

Definitely. I need to redo the fronts either way since i rebuilt the main front crossmember. It'll be much cleaner and nicer.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Something that many folks don’t do is relocating the abs or other brake lines when making modifications. Extending the lines and moving them out other way helps with fitting components and working on the rig afterwards.

flex lines out of the master to proportioning valve against the firewall and lines tucked down from there is so nice to be out of the way. Having the brake lines coil and float in mid air and loosing tons of space around it is only helpful for the production line. If you are going to modify the lines, I suggest looking into correcting all of them under the hood.

Yep, AN braided lines way cool.......

 

[usanumber1]

Bought a fresh rebuilt HE351CW to replace the H1C. Wasn’t planning on getting a new turbo now, but figured I might as well do it now or be forced to reconfigure my down pipe, intercooler pipe, intake, etc. later on. “Buy right or buy twice.”

I finally pulled the trigger on some big ticket items this weekend. In transit right now is the adapter and flex plate, HGM Compushift Sport, throttle cable, throttle return springs, etc. I know many have gone with the US Shift units, but the Bluetooth, GUI, attention to detail, and small size of the Compushift made the extra cash def worth it. Should have much of the truck done and ready for final assembly very soon.

-

 

[FellowTraveler]

HGM was a choice I made w/47RH...

 

[usanumber1]

I'm currently thinning the wiring harness. Does anyone have an pinout for the 6.5L GMT400 ECU? Thanks.

Nevermind. Finally found it on AllDataDIY.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Did you get that spacer for the mount installed, or?

 

[usanumber1]

not yet. It was supposed to be laser cut yesterday. I'm stressing because this truck was planned to be running by Feb 5, and it's getting close. It's holding me back from getting the trans, driveshafts, final wiring, t case linkage, hoses, etc from being completed.

 

[FellowTraveler]

not yet. It was supposed to be laser cut yesterday. I'm stressing because this truck was planned to be running by Feb 5, and it's getting close. It's holding me back from getting the trans, driveshafts, final wiring, t case linkage, hoses, etc from being completed.

Well good luck with getting going by the 5th!

 

[usanumber1]

You’re telling me!

 

[n8in8or]

What happens on Feb 5th? Does it turn back to a pumpkin?

 

[usanumber1]

So I was about to get started on splicing in wires last night for the HGM Compushift Sport controller. Then I got stumped. I am a complete 12 volt amateur.

Speedometer:
the speedo wire from the new controller harness should go where? into the PCM? if this is the case, which pin? splice into circuit 389 DK GRN of the VSSB?

Tach:
Because the 6.5 tach signal was obtained through the alternator, where should I tap the new harness wire for a tach signal? just splice into the existing brown wire from the alt?

241C hi/lo switch:
My current 241 switch has a three wire connector, BRN-fused ign, GRY?BLK-ground for lo, and LTBLU for the t case relay. The wire provided in the harness is a single yellow, the directions state to connect the yellow harness. I have a single yellow wire, hardly a harness. How should I route this single wire?

Attached are visual aids.

 

[usanumber1]

What happens on Feb 5th? Does it turn back to a pumpkin?

KOTH2020

Race Prep Racing – From Unknown to Top 10 - King of the Hammers

May 10, 2011 - Simi Valley, CA: At the Best in the Desert Silver State 300 this year a weekend jeeper qualified for the 2012 King of the Hammers (KOH). With no prior desert racing experience, Ultra4 driver Richie Carter took his Race Prep Racing #4474 car 303 miles in just under 8 hours, scooping up

ultra4racing.com

 

[MrMarty51]

KOTH2020

Race Prep Racing – From Unknown to Top 10 - King of the Hammers

May 10, 2011 - Simi Valley, CA: At the Best in the Desert Silver State 300 this year a weekend jeeper qualified for the 2012 King of the Hammers (KOH). With no prior desert racing experience, Ultra4 driver Richie Carter took his Race Prep Racing #4474 car 303 miles in just under 8 hours, scooping up

ultra4racing.com

I was going to share that on My fakebook page but I didn't see a share button. LOL

 

[usanumber1]

Ok, I got the trans controller wired and routed, the Bluetooth GUI is awesome and I’m glad I paid the few extra bucks.

Now, I’m trying to wire this engine and it’s making my head hurt, especially because it’s 4 wires, and I’m making it way more complicated than it has to be. I bought the super nice starter solenoid harness from Larry B’s.
Red to battery pos. Got it.
Black to engine grounds. Got it.
White “can go to small stud on starter”
Blue to vehicle ignition.

The OEM ignition wire is the purple, is this to be replaced by the new blue in the new harness? The white and blue are to open solenoid, and then to keep it open. If the white doesn’t get routed to starter, where should I go? I called Larry B, but I don’t think I was describing the problem correctly, because I didn’t learn anything new.