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Looking to get the NV4500 in the 1994 K3500 rebuilt

Mary was very helpful to me as well. :thumbsup:

Now I have several questions:

#1. The pilot bearing was gone. What is the best to get and where?

#2. The throw out bearing didn't look to be to high of quality. What is the best and where?

#4. How much difference is there in the bolt patterns to the bell housing between the 94 and 96?

These bolt holes appeared to measure the same. I'm assuming the bolt patterns would be different enough that a tape measure would suffice. No caliper needed.

#5. How hard is it to swap the shift plate assemblies?

Will it make a difference that my 3rd gear synchro was out on the present trans? What all does this entail? Gasket?

The casting number on the trans we took out is C - 16812

The input shaft is bad on the NV4500 we took out.

I also have a picture of the shifter
 

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The top cover/shift fork assembly is a pretty easy swap (just align the shift forks), I am just using Anearobic sealant on mine (no gasket, had black RTV CAKED on), If you are swapping tops then get new shift pads (can't remember which gear has them), The bolt patterns are the same until they changed to higher ratio gears (went from 4-6 bolt i think)
 
#5. How hard is it to swap the shift plate assemblies?

Will it make a difference that my 3rd gear synchro was out on the present trans? What all does this entail? Gasket?

I called Blumenthal's and they swapping the shift covers will be absolutely no problem and that the 3rd gear synchro being out in the bad transmission will have no effect on the swap
 
jrsavoie said:
Mary was very helpful to me as well. :thumbsup:

Now I have several questions:

#1. The pilot bearing was gone. What is the best to get and where?
use a bronze pilot bushing. i ordered one through jegs both times. bushings cannot fail and destroy the nose of the shaft like a bearing will once it drys out. My uncle, who has rebuilt transmissions his entire life suggested placing a small piece of thick cloth soaked in trans fluid back there to aid in lubrication.

#2. The throw out bearing didn't look to be to high of quality. What is the best and where?
Mine came with my clutch kit. My clutch is a Hays Supertruck and I love it. I suggest replacing your clutch while your in there.

#4. How much difference is there in the bolt patterns to the bell housing between the 94 and 96?

These bolt holes appeared to measure the same. I'm assuming the bolt patterns would be different enough that a tape measure would suffice. No caliper needed.
Whcih side? Motor side would be the same, but there is a change between 94 and 96. 95's IIRC are a one off year for the bellhousing, because they were the 2nd gen trans with the e

#5. How hard is it to swap the shift plate assemblies?

Will it make a difference that my 3rd gear synchro was out on the present trans? What all does this entail? Gasket?
the synchros shouldn't affect the shift rails. There is no gasket, just RTV. Also, replacing synchros is actually quite easy, I did them in my NV4500 in 30 mins (once the trans was out of the truck). There is a special puller and socket for the end shaft nut, but otherwise everything is regular hand tools.
The casting number on the trans we took out is C - 16812

The input shaft is bad on the NV4500 we took out.

I also have a picture of the shifter
Click to expand...

See the red above.
 
Will it make a difference that my 3rd gear synchro was out on the present trans? What all does this entail? Gasket?
the synchros shouldn't affect the shift rails. There is no gasket, just RTV. Also, replacing synchros is actually quite easy, I did them in my NV4500 in 30 mins (once the trans was out of the truck). There is a special puller and socket for the end shaft nut, but otherwise everything is regular hand tools.
The casting number on the trans we took out is C - 16812

WOW, 30 MIN?? Mine took 3 weeks between parts being welded together, shift sliders being ground off, and waiting for random parts in the mail. I didnt use any special tool at all, I got the nut off with hammer and punch and used regual gear pullers for everything else, If i couldnt pull it I had to take it to the machine shop and have my buddy do it for $5...
 
What did you have welded together?! Mine only took 30 mins to rebuild because I only replaced the synchros and input shaft, everything else was fine.

I have a NV4500 service kit from Kent Moore, i can tell you it's considerably easier having the special tools.
 
Do you have a part number for the kit?
How much was it?


88gmctruck said:
What did you have welded together?! Mine only took 30 mins to rebuild because I only replaced the synchros and input shaft, everything else was fine.

I have a NV4500 service kit from Kent Moore, i can tell you it's considerably easier having the special tools.
Click to expand...
 
My bearings got so hot they had siezed to the shafts and took some serious heat to pull off and a better press and puller set up than I had. The Input bearing was siezed, the rear bearing on the main shaft was the same way (i'm pretty sure that was the one), there were a couple other issues that held me up and would have made synchro replacement nearly impossible in 30 min (they held everything together). I had to have 3 bearings pulled by a machine shop due to the inner race being stuck to the shaft.
 
jrsavoie said:
Do you have a part number for the kit?
How much was it?
Click to expand...
J39143 - NVG4500 Transmission Service Repair Kit. I received it as a gift so I do not know what it costs.

tanman_2006 said:
My bearings got so hot they had siezed to the shafts and took some serious heat to pull off and a better press and puller set up than I had. The Input bearing was siezed, the rear bearing on the main shaft was the same way (i'm pretty sure that was the one), there were a couple other issues that held me up and would have made synchro replacement nearly impossible in 30 min (they held everything together). I had to have 3 bearings pulled by a machine shop due to the inner race being stuck to the shaft.
Click to expand...
Geeze, did you run out of oil or something?
 
Kent moore kits are $$$$ I found a full 6.5 service kit for $20 at an auction but on ebay they can be over $100.

It was 'Freshened up' by the local mechanic but never shifted "RIGHT" and kept getting worse. It was filled with 80/90 and had mix and match parts in the synchros. IE: Large springs in the holes where small springs should have been due to deeply grooved shift sliders and large springs used to make up for the wear. Tranny was severely abused on top of all that. Take your pick on what caused the problems...
 
Jeeze. I'm 99% sure the synchros that were in it failed because when I pulled the trans it had what smelled like 80/90. It was a farm truck so i bet it never saw much speed and the oil didn't effect it there. They lasted 2 years after I put in the Amsoil MTG when swapping to my truck. After putting new ones in, I this time went with GM fluid.
 
I need one of the 4 bushings that goes on the bolts that hold the removable shifters on. When I removed the shifter there was one bolt that was missing the bushing.

Any advice or part numbers would be appreciated
 
88gmctruck said:
Jeeze. I'm 99% sure the synchros that were in it failed because when I pulled the trans it had what smelled like 80/90. It was a farm truck so i bet it never saw much speed and the oil didn't effect it there. They lasted 2 years after I put in the Amsoil MTG when swapping to my truck. After putting new ones in, I this time went with GM fluid.
Click to expand...

Did you rebuild it first time around and it only lasted 2yrs behind a 350 in a 1500 (big 1500 but still)? Did you use brass synchros or the steel ones? Mine was pulled out of Ol' Blue which is an abused farm truck that spent alot of time in a field hauling hay and getting the snot beat out of it.

I was planning to go with amsoil but if you ate new synchros in 2yrs then I'm alittle iffy on that..
 
I did not do anything to the trans when I first installed it. I suspected it was filled improperly in the past. I can tell you after using both amsoil and the Gm castrol syntorque I like the Gm fluid better.

My new syncros are OEM carbon fiber lined. The tech I know well (uncle) said the brass syncros don't work well in nv4500 transmissions due to the way the trans is designed. Any good trans shop knows this and doesn't even carry them.
 
Blumenthals, one of the largest world wide distributors ONLY uses brass synchros. This is what I used, had a mess up in my assembly (too many shims because i'm an idiot and assembled in the wrong order) so i havent got to use it yet.
 
Nobody local that I spoke with carries brass syncros for the NV4500. From what I was told by them the brass ones do not properly work with the style syncros in the trans and they end up eating the syncro gear teeth up. Quad4x4.com says similar. I haven't used them so I wouldn't know, but the OEM carbon fiber syncros work well with the proper fluid.
 
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