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A little bit of fuel system R & R.

Hey Jamie where u get the check valve from n how much? Does it come with hose barbs on it or do u add those? I need one for my F350, it loses its prime overnite.
 
Well the trip went excellent. The truck handled the ride just fine, and broke 118,000 miles on Tuesday. In fact, it handled like a dream. It didn't seem to care about the altitude at all. Had great power the whole time. Can't say the same for some of the other rigs I passed and got passed by on the way. :D A 90's 7.3L Powerstroke passed by me pulling a 6% grade at 4000' and he had a light haze rolling from the tailpipe the whole way up. I got the check valve is earlier this week and it should work well. I think I might be lazy on this one and wait till open shop in a few weeks at the school to put the truck up on the lift to install my relay for the Walbro, get the check valve installed, and double check my work after its had the time to get some miles on it. The guard plate that protects the filters from debris slung up by the tires proved its worth on Saturday as we ducked away from Sedona and hit 12 miles of rough, bumpy gravel trails to go trail riding in the mountains on horseback. The filters don't have a scratch on them. But the plate actually had a few dings in it where it looks like a couple rocks hit it at high speed. If those rocks could leave a crater in a piece of 1/4" steel than imagine the damage it could have caused to an unprotected filter :EEK:

orrum, I got the check valve off ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Way-Fue...&otn=2&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=8993205887931750440
It seems like a decent quality piece, but only time will really tell I suppose. He does have other sizes for different I.D. fuel lines if you need as well.


Once again, overall, I'm EXTREMELY pleased with how the system came together and how it performs, even under some of the toughest conditions. I'd say mission accomplished :thumbsup: Who knows, maybe even when I get back to PA this winter i could make a kit for these or something.
 
Small update.

Wound up replacing the fuel / water separator filter around 100 miles ago. The original one that came with the filter head when I bought it started leaking around the O-ring. Not only was the o-ring not lubricated when I was still collecting parts, but whomever twisted the filter on did so with Goliath strength. A new filter and problem solved. I went out today and took a picture of the "water" bowl to show some of the contaminates its picking up. And mind you, all the crap that's in there is within the past 100 miles, as I cleaned out the bowl when I replaced the Filter! Using a flashlight to illuminate the inside of the bowl a bit better and...:

IMG_20120805_150636.jpg


I went to open shop at the school this past weekend to get some things done, but the biggest was finally getting my relay wired up so that the oil pressure switch only has to energize the relay coil as compared to running the fuel pump circuit. While doing that, I added a signal line coming off pin 87 on the relay that goes to the obnoxiously bright blue idiot light on my dash. A very simple and effective diagnostic tool I think. When the fuel pump is receiving +12V, the idiot light turns on. Once I finally get a fuel pressure gauge installed it should give me a great "view" of what my fuel system is doing.

IMG_20120805_150350.jpg
 
a piece of black electrical tape over that blue light will cure it. just put a hole in it to let the amount of light out you want. I have a light like that on my driving lights, and as I'm getting older the bright dash light are bothering me. So that was my fix just a pinhole is lots at night
 
The electrical tape would drive me nuts. I think I'll wind up just soldering a small resistor inline with it to split the voltage in half. I drove home from class tonight and that light damn near almost blinded me. Gave the cab a bright blue glow and several times I could have swore I was seeing blue lights (:eek:) coming up behind me. I'm thinking I'm going to wind up leaving the light there (resistors are cheap anyway), just because that combine with the fuel pressure gauge will tell me spot on whether it electrical or fuel related. No need to pick up a meter or anything. That and I already drilled the hole for the light. I'll be mounting a momentary push button right underneath it once I have time to pre-charge the fuel system that way. Another way I was thinking of doing was coming off the signal wire of the glow plug relay and running it to the (fuel pump) relay coil with a diode so that the glow plugs will cycle the fuel pump, but the fuel pump can't power the glow plugs when its on.
 
what i have done is used wix parts numbers
filter head 24770
2 micron fuel filter.. 33674
water/fuel 33675
i drilled and tapped the 2 micron head with a radiator peecock for a quick bleed using the fuel pump.
 
malibu795 said:
what i have done is used wix parts numbers
filter head 24770
2 micron fuel filter.. 33674
water/fuel 33675
i drilled and tapped the 2 micron head with a radiator peecock for a quick bleed using the fuel pump.
Click to expand...

i revised this.
wix 24770 (30.00 through summit) no peecock
baldwin BF7587 or wix 33674 primary fuel filter (18.00 summitracing)
baldwin BF1259 or wix 33406 w/f secondary (20.00 summitracing)
1/2" npt by 3/8" barb and 1/2"npt by 1/2" barb couplers


with a service interval on a C15 about 25,000 miles... im looking at changing them every 75k or so
 
Thanks for updating those P/N's. This thread is turning out great with all this input from everyone.

Any update on the system I setup on the little green truck - 2600 miles cross country in 6 days and didn't have the slightest problem with fuel. Actually, it seems like my fuel water separator bowl catches the 2 stroke oil I mix in for lubrication and bleeds it into the fuel system over time. I add 2 stroke first at a 120:1 ratio, then start fueling for best mixing quality. That bowl turns blue almost instantly after adding the oil, and is clear again after about 2/3 the tank is empty. An awesome little unexpected side effect but I'm certainly fine with it. I can wait to change the filters and cut them open come summer time next year to see how they fared.
 
the cat w/f filter you post is rather expensive and not stocked often.. from what i have found..
any major truckstop carries these filters. makes them cheap and easy to get...
 
I did notice that. Empire CAT (who I bought from in Arizona) readily stocked them and the filter is about $20 a pop. Now that I'm back on the East Coast, I may be having to either source a different W/F separator, or buy a bulk pack of them and stock up for now.
 
heres couple more fuel filter numbers and info
BF (lenght)/wix (rating)
BF7587 (10.5") /33674(2 micron)
BF614 (10.5) /33374 (6 micron)
BF7633 (7.125") /33528 (2 micron)
BF1259 (9.8") /33406 (14 micron)
 
I think you could run any spin on fuel filter with a 1-14 thread, this is most of the racor and wix to name a couple.
 
Burning oil said:
I think you could run any spin on fuel filter with a 1-14 thread, this is most of the racor and wix to name a couple.
Click to expand...

true leroy... just putting numbers out there... makes it easiey for someone to get part numbers and duplicate it
gasket OD cant be more then 2.9" iirc for the filter base that i posted. which there are soem fuel filters on 1-14 thread that are bigger
 
Thanks for the part numbers i was getting my 2 and 6 microns mixed up.
All my filters are 1-14 thread. One before the lp, and one in the engine bay. Have another filter head on order that will go in the engine bay too.

thinking 20-10-2, or 20-6-2, but ideally 20-10-6-2.(all micron ratings)

Can you tell i've been working on my fuel system lately??:mad2:
And a heads up on a cheap pre lp filter, search ebay for bf891.
 
You can also peruse your local semi truck dealer. I can pick up a Baldwin oil filter $5 cheaper than parts store and about $7 cheaper than truckstops. Well, at least at the Madison WI kenworth dealer.
 
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