ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
mine just used an oring I'd think it would be easy to find
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Won't start in the morning
- Thread starter robzombie4551
- Start date
robzombie4551
robzombie4551
Was it round or square?
Mine kinda looks like it was square when new.
Also I don't know what the original thickness was due to it being so swollen.
Any help there would be great.
Mine kinda looks like it was square when new.
Also I don't know what the original thickness was due to it being so swollen.
Any help there would be great.
Acesneights1
New Member
How's the compression ?
Also where is the throttle when you are trying to start it ? My 95 would not start unless I gave it about 1/4 throttle. I have heard others with 95's and the same problem.
Also where is the throttle when you are trying to start it ? My 95 would not start unless I gave it about 1/4 throttle. I have heard others with 95's and the same problem.
robzombie4551
robzombie4551
I just put a new/used optimiser in and that's when the problem started.
It started hard with the original motor unless I plugged the heater in.
Remember when we had this conversation, I told you that I would feather the pedal and it would chug to life and then clear up and be fine.
I changed all the glows and have extended glow times in one of my programs and it started no problem until I changed the engine.
Well now with the new engine it spins over like no fuel or fuel sol. is bad on no PMD. just a raw fuel vapor coming out of the leaking cross over gasket.
Put 3 drops of ether in the IAT hole and it starts before the engine can go 1 revolution.
All other starts during the day are fine, just the first one it won't start without the juice.
I think I'll pull the OS out and clean it or try my spare one.
Is there anything I should know before taking the OS out? Like is there a way to screw it up if not done right.
It started hard with the original motor unless I plugged the heater in.
Remember when we had this conversation, I told you that I would feather the pedal and it would chug to life and then clear up and be fine.
I changed all the glows and have extended glow times in one of my programs and it started no problem until I changed the engine.
Well now with the new engine it spins over like no fuel or fuel sol. is bad on no PMD. just a raw fuel vapor coming out of the leaking cross over gasket.
Put 3 drops of ether in the IAT hole and it starts before the engine can go 1 revolution.
All other starts during the day are fine, just the first one it won't start without the juice.
I think I'll pull the OS out and clean it or try my spare one.
Is there anything I should know before taking the OS out? Like is there a way to screw it up if not done right.
bison
Well-Known Member
Mebby an compression test is in order.
New used optimizer is just another used engine with pistons,rings and valves.
Just saying.
New used optimizer is just another used engine with pistons,rings and valves.
Just saying.
Sounds like timing or all the gp's not working.
Acesneights1
New Member
Yeah, scribe where it was. Very sensitive. If you don't put it back exactly right your gonna have problems.
buddy
Active Member
View attachment Mnx&Mods info.pdfThe OS should about line up from side to side when you mount it. Taking it out and cleaning it might help. To tell if you mounted it correctly just look at idle fuel rates. It should be about 8mm3, if its much lower need to move the OS towards drivers side, if its much higher need to move it towards passenger side. Thats moving the actual OS, not the IP.
It should operate fine anywhere from 5-11mm3 at warm idle. The higher it is the less throttle response off the line perhaps, and the lower it is the more sensitive the pedal will get and could cause loping or poor low rpm cruising/coasting and shifting. A lot of curves are based on fuel rate, so tricking it impacts other stuff.
Its covered in my mnx list.
Here are some good links
http://www.mamut.net/royh/newsdet9.htm
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14231&highlight=Optic+bump&page=2
It should operate fine anywhere from 5-11mm3 at warm idle. The higher it is the less throttle response off the line perhaps, and the lower it is the more sensitive the pedal will get and could cause loping or poor low rpm cruising/coasting and shifting. A lot of curves are based on fuel rate, so tricking it impacts other stuff.
Its covered in my mnx list.
Here are some good links
http://www.mamut.net/royh/newsdet9.htm
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14231&highlight=Optic+bump&page=2
I see in your signature you have boost, tranny, and egt gauges. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If not, I'd hook a temp one on and see what you have when you are cold cranking. What was the result of running your lift pump prior to trying to start? If your LP is giving decent pressure, I'd like to see you run it for a minute before that first cold start, see if it makes a difference.
robzombie4551
robzombie4551
7lbs.
The same as before.
Although this morning I cranked it for about ten seconds with my APP on the floor and it started without me having to give it 3 drops of the go juice.
I just reset my TDCO and will see if that helps.
robzombie4551
robzombie4551
I will check it this week and let you know.
I'm short on time and outta my mind. LOL
I'm short on time and outta my mind. LOL
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
Air???????
Did you do the clear tubing to check for air bubbles? If you did it and I missed it in the thread, Sorry.
robzombie4551
robzombie4551
I didn't do it because I'm getting fuel vapor out the exhaust manifold.
Maybe I 'm not getting enough fuel, I will try that also,thanks.
Maybe I 'm not getting enough fuel, I will try that also,thanks.
buddy
Active Member
I found this on AMG's website describing the Optimizer
-Starts like gas engine after first start of the day
Presumably, this means the first start is going to be a bit different experience :hihi:
It sounds like an electronics issue. Timing like, related to the OS, whether air bubbles are giving it grief, or the eye has degraded and needs to be cleaned or replaced, the fuel is not tranparent enough when cold, ect....
Combine that with a potentially weak PMD. You could measure the voltage output of the PMD to see if its a little weak which could be troublesome. That is covered at the end of the maintenance list I posted, how you can backprobe the PMD to measure it.
-Starts like gas engine after first start of the day
Presumably, this means the first start is going to be a bit different experience :hihi:
It sounds like an electronics issue. Timing like, related to the OS, whether air bubbles are giving it grief, or the eye has degraded and needs to be cleaned or replaced, the fuel is not tranparent enough when cold, ect....
Combine that with a potentially weak PMD. You could measure the voltage output of the PMD to see if its a little weak which could be troublesome. That is covered at the end of the maintenance list I posted, how you can backprobe the PMD to measure it.