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why are we all wasting money on TTY head bolts?

and putting studs on first will allow you to put the gasket down over it and not potentially misalign the gasket or tear into it with the stud/bolt.
 
Acesneights1 said:
That was what I originally thought. You put the heads on first and then screw in the studs. They have an allen key on them to screw them in. I love them.
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Soooooooo.....

If you need to remove the head, you have to remove all the studs first?

Hmmm, other than getting engagement on all the threads in the block, that seems like a bit of a pain in the....

Well, when I think about it, I guess it's only one more step compared to bolts.

It's not like the truck would be going any where in a hurry if you're pulling a head......
 
It's probably easier installation speed wise to use TTY but the ARP's are considerably stronger, Reusable and can achieve proper torque IN vehichle. Remember , when using TTY bolts the turns are made in 90 deg incremnets which on a few of the back bolts is near impossible. Last Summer was the first time I have ever used a set and will use nothing but from this day forward.
 
Only problem with torqueing them after some heat cycles is having to take up the intake, fuel lines, and valve covers. Quite a PITA. Thats why ARP recommends lubing, to at least best get all the nuts evenly toqued across the head, and as little friction playing into that torque so they seat as low as possible. What you could do is torque them down, leave it be for a few days, undo the nuts and torque them back down before finishing assembly.
 
I re-did head 2 years and 27k miles ago (just the DS side BTW).

I bought 17 new TTY bolts, I think they were FelPro, but could have been ARP, I remember it was a good name.........anyhow I never re-tourqued them after warmup or after 500 miles..

Its probably good practice, but as mentioned such a Pain in the ass.... Not like in the good ol' days when its just a matter of popping the hood and hopping in the engine bay :)
 
felpro gaskets are called perma torque because there is no need to re-torque, they are permanently torqued the first time you do it.

although I just did my head gaskets and used TTY bolts and cometic gaskets that were supposed not to have been re-torqued the driver side blew after only 30 miles and the torque was way low.

When I took them back off they were so loose it was scary.
 
subclatter said:
felpro gaskets are called perma torque because there is no need to re-torque, they are permanently torqued the first time you do it.

although I just did my head gaskets and used TTY bolts and cometic gaskets that were supposed not to have been re-torqued the driver side blew after only 30 miles and the torque was way low.

When I took them back off they were so loose it was scary.
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IIRC Missy had problems with cometics also.
 
great white said:
You guys do know that if you're not using an angle gauge on a TTY bolt, you're not doing it right.

Right?

For example:

http://www.cdxetextbook.com/toolsEquip/hpt/measuring/usetorqgauge.html
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Exactly why Bill Heath swears by ARP's and I do as well after using them. Of course in reality we have all used TTYs in truck not torquing them exactly the way they are designed to be and it worked anyway. Then again I have reused TTYs and it worked, that doesn't mean it's right or worth the chance of having to do it all again. Nope ARPS for me from now on.
 
We are using the Cometics presently, with the ARP headstuds. Not sure if the Cometics and TTY bolts are a good combination. All of the reports that we have seen thus far of the Cometic failure has been with TTY. In the spring,(no ****ing shop), we plan to remove valve covers to check the O-ring mod and to re-torque all studs +10 ft lbs.:thumbsup:
 
I have reused TTY bolts on a couple 6.2's and on the 6.5 in my 98...NO problem!
One can easely tell if they are still good.a good one gives a dead torque,a bad one feels spongy and keeps on stretching without reaching the torque setting.
I found bad bolts in a brandnew set(came with the felpro gasket set),i chucked the whole set, i just grabbed the old ones.
In 15 yrs of driving with these critters i have to have the first head gasket leak yet. I got 25 thou on the 98,she doing fine.

I have always re used the old headbolts on every diesel i've rebuild and there where plenty.

The problem with retorquing the 6.5 bolts is outside of the hassle to remove the valve covers, would be that for good result one has to turn the bolt back a turn before torquing again.This will break the tread seal and might result in leaks.
Trying to re torque without loosening the bolt first is no use cause it takes more LBS to overcome the settled friction.If you can,then you got a bad bolt there.

my 2 c
 
TTY is designed for one thing only and that is to eliminate the re-torque step completely.

You can reuse a TTY bolt if it has not gone into the 'yeld' of the bolt metal. Some engines are less prone to do this...

Studs are tightened in 3 steps.
Yes, you can set the heads on the dowels and then put the studs in.
You should put the gasket down before putting the studs in as the gasket does not go over studs easy. But I have done it twice missing that step with no problems.

You would have to skip the locktight step putting the head on in frame as there is no way to torque the studs down very well with the head on unless you are fast and can drop them all in and torque all the nuts quickly...

You mileage may vary but it seams when I pull a head the rest of the 6.2/6.5 needs to come out and go to the scrap yard.
 
WarWagon said:
TTY is designed for one thing only and that is to eliminate the re-torque step completely.

You can reuse a TTY bolt if it has not gone into the 'yeld' of the bolt metal. Some engines are less prone to do this...

Studs are tightened in 3 steps.
Yes, you can set the heads on the dowels and then put the studs in.
You should put the gasket down before putting the studs in as the gasket does not go over studs easy. But I have done it twice missing that step with no problems.

You would have to skip the locktight step putting the head on in frame as there is no way to torque the studs down very well with the head on unless you are fast and can drop them all in and torque all the nuts quickly...

You mileage may vary but it seams when I pull a head the rest of the 6.2/6.5 needs to come out and go to the scrap yard.
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I agree totally with that last line! I would never dream of re-using head bolts. But then, I've never re-used an engine. At 232k miles the original started to use coolant. I surely wasn't going to invest another dime in repair parts or labor for old castings (heads/block). I had more in a new engine from Kennedy than the truck was worth when it drove out of the shop. But, that was over a 100k miles ago. Dollar for dollar and playing the statistical game, one would be better off putting new rod/main bearings and a new lube pump in every 100k miles. That can be done in-frame quite easily. Don't get in a hurry and don't wear your favorite tee shirt though!!
 
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