• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Who is robzombie4551 on youtube?

It is too bad GM didn't execute the concept of piston squirts well. Solid idea that I'd bet could have eliminated quite a few failures in the back two cylinders.

Did all the Optimizer's have provisions for squirters?

Did the Optimizer's or the P400's ever add check ball pressure regulators so they don't bleed off oil pressure under low rpm/low oil pressure conditions (no need for piston cooling then anyhow)?
 
As far as I know, ALL 6.5's from 97 on with a 506 block have squirters in them. The blocks that had the rear cylinder failures WERE the ones with squirters. Not sure if they ever added spring loaded check balls to any 6.5's or not. To the best of my knowledge, they all just use the high volume oil pump, hence why all the new engines hold such low idle oil pressure. GM DID put the spring loaded check balls in the DURAMAX though.
 
Don't suppose the DMax squirters happen to share enough dimensions to possibly retrofit?

I haven't been into a 6.5 with squirters. Many of the other turbo diesel's squirters have the spring/ball in the squirter body & that portion inserts into the oil port. Would be slick if GM/(Izuzu) happened to design DMax squirters similar enough, but imagine that's unlikely.
 
The Duramax piston is better suited to spray cooling too. Or its a combination of spray channeling, direction, and volume of squirt'ers etc.

I think I agree the 210F coolant temp in and of itself doesn't mean much unless you know the rest of the heat dissipation balance.

I can't see where the bottom end or piston(s) really know when the coolant is at such a fine line at 210/220F failure zone. That is not really close to any yield point of metal etc. But combine other heat indicators oil, EGT, and IAT and the heat in the combustion event starts to reveal a more pronounced heat gradient through the piston and maybe some harsher peak cylinder pressure and harmonic issues??? Considering its IDI and the pre combustion temperature gradient and heat stored in the pre cups.

Does the oil get a little hotter and increase load on the stack and you loose a few degrees of cooling on the lower radiator hose (hotter and less cooling)? As we know the 6.5 can be close margin engine. And it all snowballs to scoring the hottest cylinders when you push the limits (as in combination of the limits)?
 
My optimizer (and other ones I've seen)has all 8 cylinders with squirters, no check balls. Yep on the low oil pressure. I flipping hate it. I want to put in a higher pressure relief spring in the oil pump. I know it's volume that's needed not pressure, but I'd rather that option.
 
My specific thought on upper coolant temp limit relates mostly to lowering the potential for forming steam pockets (& the associated metal hotspots that happen absent liquid water carrying heat away from those areas) around the IDI chamber & valves - would guess GM's later water pump design changes were to address hot spots & cracking in the heads.
018.jpg
On the oil squirters, I was just thinking of an additional path for heat rejection. Along with adding a DMax IC (ought to remove some heat load from the air mass in the combustion chambers under higher boost conditions), I did a 3" body lift & used a 3500HD's core support - looks like this may allow a little better airflow thru the stack. I've about got the fan shrouding sorted out - which is flawed in many body lifts.

The body lift allowed me to move a 48 plate oil cooler from in front of the condenser,...to mounted on a well ventilated skid plate with 10" fan to help, if necessary. Before - when this cooler was mounted in the stack, oil temp never climbed above coolant temp, but it's heat load still just added into the stack airflow. Still need to sort out some revised ducting behind the bumper nostrils, so the air's path of least resistance is thru the stack - not around it.

I'm looking forward to pulling the truck with loaded GN trailer, in next summer's 100 degree days, to see how these changes play out.

Was theorizing that with this oil cooler setup, and an Optimizer or P400 (with squirters, hi volume pump, & the bigger oil cooler ports/plumbing) could well have a little more cooling margin.

Even if the 6.5's with squirters & higher volume pumps get along fine with the lower hot idle oil pressure, it'd bug the heck out of me also.
 
My optimizer (and other ones I've seen)has all 8 cylinders with squirters, no check balls. Yep on the low oil pressure. I flipping hate it. I want to put in a higher pressure relief spring in the oil pump. I know it's volume that's needed not pressure, but I'd rather that option.
A higher pressure spring won't help as the engine still reaches good oil pressure at higher RPM's. They just simply waste to much oil at low RPM's.
 
That's why I want a higher tension spring, more pressure at low rpm. Be able to set pressure at 15psi minimum. Maybe a spring or regulator after the cam before it dumps back to the pan?
 
That's why I want a higher tension spring, more pressure at low rpm. Be able to set pressure at 15psi minimum. Maybe a spring or regulator after the cam before it dumps back to the pan?
The spring keeps the bypass closed until the pressure reaches roughly 45 psi, a tighter spring will do nothing to raise idle oil pressure. The only things that will raise it, is to increase the volume the pump is putting out, tighten the bearing tolerances, restrict the squirters, or run a thicker oil. I've had setups with adjusteable regulators, and I can assure you a tighter spring will do nothing to increase pressure at a hot idle. There is no minumum oil pressure adjustment except for how much oil the pump puts out vs how much is bleed out past the bearings and squirters.
 
What is your guys oil pressure at hot idle? Mine even while towing the trailer on a 100 degree day it never drops below 20 at idle. I have 174K miles on mine.
 
maybe 75,000 on mine now, but new cam bearings, new rod and main bearings less than 10,000 miles ago. In 110 heat it will idle about 10-15. Before bearings went in it was 10. 80 degree day or colder it comes up about 5 psi. Delo 400 15/40.
I want synthetic but afraid of thinner oil causing less pressure.
 
I find synthetic has better hot oil pressure. So does the 15w-50 Mystic semi synthetic. I am looking at running straight 30 or 40 weight in mine.

The 210 redline also somewhat applies for IDI Fords as they also loose ring tension when things get too hot. (Instant increase in blowby.) 2nd is the cracking issues. 3rd is scuffing a piston. My 1st 6.5 scuffed a coated piston due to high ECT that cracked and burned through. With a better cooling system and extreme EGT I haven't hurt uncoated 6.2 pistons even with the GMx still on.
 
My non squirter 6.5L idled around 35, and ran about 45 down the road. The DURAMAX runs about 40-45 goign down the road, and drops to about 30 at idle(it uses squirters with spring loaded check balls). Most all of the 506+ 6.5's I have seen seem to idle around 10-20 PSI, a bit low for my taste.
 
I looked up GM's spec yesterday and it says min. 6PSI idle. I would crap if my oil pressure was 6 at idle.
10 isn't uncommon on 506 squirter blocks. I like to have at least 20 myself, but the important thing is to have a good oil, and that it is present at the bearing surface to cool and lubricate it.
 
probably not the place to turn into an oil discussion, but Will, consider doing one oil change with Mobil Delvac 1300 super. IMO it carries a bit higher oil pressure than other oils.

A trucker buddy with a S 60 detroit said the same. on his digital oil PSI guage it was allways 2-5 lbs higher.
 
My specific thought on upper coolant temp limit relates mostly to lowering the potential for forming steam pockets (& the associated metal hotspots that happen absent liquid water carrying heat away from those areas) around the IDI chamber & valves - would guess GM's later water pump design changes were to address hot spots & cracking in the heads.
View attachment 46486
On the oil squirters, I was just thinking of an additional path for heat rejection. Along with adding a DMax IC (ought to remove some heat load from the air mass in the combustion chambers under higher boost conditions), I did a 3" body lift & used a 3500HD's core support - looks like this may allow a little better airflow thru the stack. I've about got the fan shrouding sorted out - which is flawed in many body lifts.

The body lift allowed me to move a 48 plate oil cooler from in front of the condenser,...to mounted on a well ventilated skid plate with 10" fan to help, if necessary. Before - when this cooler was mounted in the stack, oil temp never climbed above coolant temp, but it's heat load still just added into the stack airflow. Still need to sort out some revised ducting behind the bumper nostrils, so the air's path of least resistance is thru the stack - not around it.

I'm looking forward to pulling the truck with loaded GN trailer, in next summer's 100 degree days, to see how these changes play out.

Was theorizing that with this oil cooler setup, and an Optimizer or P400 (with squirters, hi volume pump, & the bigger oil cooler ports/plumbing) could well have a little more cooling margin.

Even if the 6.5's with squirters & higher volume pumps get along fine with the lower hot idle oil pressure, it'd bug the heck out of me also.

It would be nice to see more on your Dmax CAC install.
 
Is there anything specific you'd like to see? I've taken lots of pictures thru the process. I learned a lot from the DMax IC installs that THEFERMANATOR, THOR, & GJF did.

I plan to start a thread on this specific project. Always hesitant to start a thread before project is done.

I'm doing a number of Fall home maintenance projects, so progress on the truck is in fits & starts.
 
Back
Top