Whining sound

[Big T]

Hear that whine? It also changes when steering wheel is moved back and forth and when steering wheel hits a hard stop. Not impacting steering itself.

Is this my power steering pump going out?

 

[ak diesel driver]

could be, most I've been around are more distinctive ie louder

 

[WarWagon]

Is this my power steering pump going out?

Anything on the belt drive is affected by changes to load on the belt drive. PS pump changing the load make may another item make noise or not. Remove belt and feel every bearing by hand.

Sample the PS oil. Assume it's at the proper level?

 

[Big T]

Pulled the serp belt and the only item making noise is the clutch on the ac compressor:

Ironically this was the conclusion both my son and I had while it was running. The ac compressor itself is working. It is a Sanden unit. Can the clutch itself be replaced, or is this just replace the whole thing?

 

[WarWagon]

Can the clutch itself be replaced, or is this just replace the whole thing?

Get a genuine Sanden replacement. I find the clutches cost as much as a new compressor so buy a new compressor and: replace it or swap just the clutch off the new compressor. Evac and recharge will cost more.

IMO replace the compressor as the 1st vid noise is loud enough to justify it even if working. So add a new accumulator, OT, service valves (always replace these) flush and oil to the cost.

 

[Big T]

Get a genuine Sanden replacement. I find the clutches cost as much as a new compressor so buy a new compressor and: replace it or swap just the clutch off the new compressor. Evac and recharge will cost more.

IMO replace the compressor as the 1st vid noise is loud enough to justify it even if working. So add a new accumulator, OT, service valves (always replace these) flush and oil to the cost.

What’s an OT?

 

[WarWagon]

Orifice Tube.

 

[Big T]

Pulled the serp belt and the only item making noise is the clutch on the ac compressor:

Ironically this was the conclusion both my son and I had while it was running. The ac compressor itself is working. It is a Sanden unit. Can the clutch itself be replaced, or is this just replace the whole thing?

After I spun that, I took ac repair for $500.

 

[dbrannon79]

I was going to say that if the ac is not leaking and cooling good, it might be worth renting a clutch puller and just replace the bearing in the pulley.
there is a good chance the bearing alone is readily available. auto parts won't list it under application but you would need to pull it and get the SKF or timkin number off the bearing.

 

[Big T]

I was going to say that if the ac is not leaking and cooling good, it might be worth renting a clutch puller and just replace the bearing in the pulley.
there is a good chance the bearing alone is readily available. auto parts won't list it under application but you would need to pull it and get the SKF or timkin number off the bearing.

I bought a new Sanden Compressor. I will have the ac repair shop replace the parts WarWagon listed. I don’t have the experience or capability to flush and recharge the ac system.

 

[Big T]

Get a genuine Sanden replacement. I find the clutches cost as much as a new compressor so buy a new compressor and: replace it or swap just the clutch off the new compressor. Evac and recharge will cost more.

IMO replace the compressor as the 1st vid noise is loud enough to justify it even if working. So add a new accumulator, OT, service valves (always replace these) flush and oil to the cost.

I went the distance with new everything, including condensor. It’s expensive, but I don’t do ac work.

 

[Will L.]

If you can afford it- replacing everything at once is the best option.
Done right you have no problems for 100,000 miles. If you do it before things go wrong, replace the compressor, dryer, orifice tube.

These compressors just suck. Hummer uses same set up as trucks, just a couple years behind. My 95 uses truck 93 set up. The air flow and everything for it is worst designed system since the 60’s. They went from mediocre design in the trucks to horrible in the hummers.
I’m seriously wanting to find a compressor from a ford, Toyota, etc to replace the factory set up with. I was and still am considering an rv roof mount unit and using a second alternator to supply the 120v ac for it can take the place of the a/c compressor.

 

[Big T]

If you can afford it- replacing everything at once is the best option.
Done right you have no problems for 100,000 miles. If you do it before things go wrong, replace the compressor, dryer, orifice tube.

These compressors just suck. Hummer uses same set up as trucks, just a couple years behind. My 95 uses truck 93 set up. The air flow and everything for it is worst designed system since the 60’s. They went from mediocre design in the trucks to horrible in the hummers.
I’m seriously wanting to find a compressor from a ford, Toyota, etc to replace the factory set up with. I was and still am considering an rv roof mount unit and using a second alternator to supply the 120v ac for it can take the place of the a/c compressor.

I’m going the distance

 

[dbrannon79]

@Will L. They do make a 12v and 24v roof top ac unit. we have installed them on some of the yard mules in the plant (old retired road trucks) when they don't want to spend the time or money repairing the factory ac every week during the summer. I had thought the compressors in them were like an RV or window unit just lower DC voltage ,but I got to see the guts of one recently and they are just a automotive compressor with an electric motor built onto where the clutch goes. a quite interesting setup.

 

[Will L.]

@dbrannon79 any info you can post is greatly appreciated.

I’m also considering the types used on semitruck sleepers for the no idling laws. I have a friend that works semi fleet that is going to check out more reliable versions of those for me.

If the a/c worked as good as it does in the suburbans with rear air, I would just stick with it. Be interesting to see how cold @Big T gets with everything done in his.

 

[dbrannon79]

@Will L. here is the company's website where they got them from. they do use quite a lot of amperage to operate but work well.

B-COOL9000RM

The B-COOL 9000RM, our most popular midsize Roof Mounted air conditioner. This is a fully self-contained 12V or 24V unit.

bcoolaircon.com

I will see if I can find a pic of the insides.

 

[dbrannon79]

I have also thought about building one similar to those on the semi truck sleepers. at my work we had one truck that came with one that the company demo'd for us and let us keep it. it was simply a small (lawnmower sized) diesel engine driving a compressor and alternator, had it's own radiator, condenser, and cooling fan. it had a under bed mounted box in the sleeper with a heater core and evap coil with the blower.

if I built one I would omit the heater part but I would think a normal 5 hp engine would be enough to drive a compressor and small alternator. Heck it might be cheaper to build this and throw it in the 93 for some ac in the summer LOL

 

[Big T]

New ac running cold and no more sound. Basically avoided the potential disaster of the compressor clutch bearing seizing and taking out the serp belt while towing my tractor through the oven-like desert that is Will’s hood.