buddy
Active Member
You must have gotten an ACDelco water pump, for some reason they are more, Bosch, Airtex, etc thread on clutch pumps can be had for $120 or so.
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Which upgraded fan is better?
- Thread starter turbovanman
- Start date
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
I know its not a 6.5 turbo but i put dual electric fans on the van, the damn noise is gone, engine seems to spin up a bit better and she doesn't run or get hot, even towing my enclosed trailer.
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fastjohnny
Member
I wonder how a pair of electric fans like on 05 or so up would work. That's what's on my Escalade with 6.0.
Dual 15" blades move 5500 CFM! - Not impressed as this is without the restrictions: radiator hood and engine in the way of fan airflow. :nonod: Your airflow in place will be lower.
Did a project awhile back and got 10,000 CFM for an engine driven fan in place with hood radiator etc. in the way. Keeps a 5.3L V-8 and 6.0L Corvette V-8 cool with the right sized radiator. The project wound up introducing a thicker radiator for Trailblazer SS to keep them cool. (Not an good option for cooling airflow starved 6.5TD's) Check out the fan CFM measurement project.
For grins I tried the same 21" fan in my diesel truck that I measured above. It did not move enough air to keep things cool. The replacement Dmax fan does.
You need a fan pulling a trailer at 65 MPH, Electrics are said to wimp out at 35 MPH. Most HD applications use a clutch fan, not light duty electrics. This is why the 1500's have the electric fans - the work trucks have clutch fans. Body style and airflow through the engine also changed with the e-fans. For MPG and light duty electrics are the way to go. When you got a big job to do and want to keep it cool you simply can't get enough power out of the alt to drive a big enough electric fan.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
I have yet to see ANYONE with electric fans complain about their 6.5 running hot.
Unless they just aren't admitting it.
I agree its the clutch engagement issue that is the problem. Not the fan design. HOWEVER, I really like the increased low RPM air movement. I think that helps draw heat out of the radiator and ONTO the fan clutch, helping that engage faster.
The only reason I went the DMAX fan is when I was leaning on Aces&Eights fender, then over at Turbine Doc's fender I noticed how much more fan wash at idle was flowing. Must have been twice the volume. After that get-together I immediately purchased one of those fans. I never even thought about a new fan, but seeing this first hand I couldn't wait till the day I installed it.
Unless they just aren't admitting it.
I agree its the clutch engagement issue that is the problem. Not the fan design. HOWEVER, I really like the increased low RPM air movement. I think that helps draw heat out of the radiator and ONTO the fan clutch, helping that engage faster.
The only reason I went the DMAX fan is when I was leaning on Aces&Eights fender, then over at Turbine Doc's fender I noticed how much more fan wash at idle was flowing. Must have been twice the volume. After that get-together I immediately purchased one of those fans. I never even thought about a new fan, but seeing this first hand I couldn't wait till the day I installed it.
racer55
Member
So are you saying you use pusher fans and the clutch fan?
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Not I. Just a OEM Replacement Clutch, modified to kick on around 205 or just shy of, and a Dmax Fan.
But all the Electric fan Installs I've read, nobody complains about it overheating. It must be much better for everything without the drag of the fan on the crank, and the added benefit of exact engagement, or a direct switch.
buddy
Active Member
Well my fan clutch never even engages and it never goes over 190F, so hearing that no one with electric fans complains is not a big deal to me. Now if Kenny put electrics on his overheating trucks and no longer had any problems then I might believe it. But I know how electric fans work, and if you need it to work while youre driving on the highway then I wouldnt do it. If you just need it at idle or low speed then they will do fine.
Need to take a truck that actually hits 210F commonly under load at high speed to test electrics.
Need to take a truck that actually hits 210F commonly under load at high speed to test electrics.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
True. In fact member here Guybb3 came over my house and had ZERO fan installed. He was inbetween electric and belt driven. Said he got stuck in traffic, highway use, city driving, no overheating issues.
Just the fact that when the fan engages how fast temps drop, I'd think switchable electrics could stay ahead of the game. I'm basing on my heat experiences which only happen when I have my 9' x 3' plow blocking all airflow.
Also, lets not forget what actually cools things down, the fan drawing air through the radiator. The radiator is the heat exchanger, the fan just pulls the air.
If your radiator isn't properly cleaned and maintained, not sure if any fan will help.
fastjohnny
Member
Yeah, Matt, I'm with you on the plow. I'm hoping the fan mod will do the trick this year for driving with the plow on.
And that's where control of the electric would be nice to kick on the minute I pull out of a lot. I can plow all night with no heat issues, but on the road, it's touch and go.
And that's where control of the electric would be nice to kick on the minute I pull out of a lot. I can plow all night with no heat issues, but on the road, it's touch and go.
If your cooling airflow needs are met by the electric fan you are fine. Road airflow through the radiator stack that is way less speed than your speedometer shows also cools you some. Until day you need more than the electric fan has... Or the fuse for it goes pop... Not that clutch systems are much better reliability wise.
The plow issue may be not getting any airflow at all to turn on the fan and the needs may be met by the lower flow of the electrics that are at least on and running at 100%.
So we have the following problems but not everyone collects them all:
Not enough airflow from fan.
Not starting the fan for needed airflow by: spring heating delay or high design clutch set-point.
Not starting the airflow due to other issues (Like: Plow in way, failed clutch, plugged radiator(s).)
Not enough water flow.
When the vehicle load reaches a point that the engine needs more cooling than the electric fan can provide airflow for you will overheat. Same for 6 blade fan. We are always looking at better then the 6 blade fan and the dmax fan being better than the 20" 9 blade steel in some cases. We being the people that push the cooling system to and beyond the limit. Not every 6.5 owner does this.
Ways to turn on the fan sooner (electric fans) may be a solution to lighter cooling loads from lighter vehicle loads/hills. Possible a pusher fan could direct heat to get the clutch on sooner.
A pusher fan always helped the AC on my 1995 gasser Yukon along with a new Hayden HD clutch. (Had I known a dmax fan would have fit this may have been the best solution.) Electric main fans on that Yukon just burned up motors and resulted in Jegs giving me a refund on the perma-cool kit after the second unit failed and the manufacturer could not get to it to repair it under warranty. (Perma-cool had so many in there failed, no staff etc. I think they are a junk product with zero warranty support. Thank God Jegs stood behind what they sell.) A flex fan resulted in noise and high temps at idle in traffic. It is tough to stay cool in extreme heat of 121 outside degrees when I was testing a better fan.
Extreme '4x4 low' hill climbs at WOT render electrics too small for the job as one owner on a Trailblazer ran into. Yet a river crossing fan off switch is a plus...
The plow issue may be not getting any airflow at all to turn on the fan and the needs may be met by the lower flow of the electrics that are at least on and running at 100%.
So we have the following problems but not everyone collects them all:
Not enough airflow from fan.
Not starting the fan for needed airflow by: spring heating delay or high design clutch set-point.
Not starting the airflow due to other issues (Like: Plow in way, failed clutch, plugged radiator(s).)
Not enough water flow.
When the vehicle load reaches a point that the engine needs more cooling than the electric fan can provide airflow for you will overheat. Same for 6 blade fan. We are always looking at better then the 6 blade fan and the dmax fan being better than the 20" 9 blade steel in some cases. We being the people that push the cooling system to and beyond the limit. Not every 6.5 owner does this.
Ways to turn on the fan sooner (electric fans) may be a solution to lighter cooling loads from lighter vehicle loads/hills. Possible a pusher fan could direct heat to get the clutch on sooner.
A pusher fan always helped the AC on my 1995 gasser Yukon along with a new Hayden HD clutch. (Had I known a dmax fan would have fit this may have been the best solution.) Electric main fans on that Yukon just burned up motors and resulted in Jegs giving me a refund on the perma-cool kit after the second unit failed and the manufacturer could not get to it to repair it under warranty. (Perma-cool had so many in there failed, no staff etc. I think they are a junk product with zero warranty support. Thank God Jegs stood behind what they sell.) A flex fan resulted in noise and high temps at idle in traffic. It is tough to stay cool in extreme heat of 121 outside degrees when I was testing a better fan.
Extreme '4x4 low' hill climbs at WOT render electrics too small for the job as one owner on a Trailblazer ran into. Yet a river crossing fan off switch is a plus...
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Have no worries! The fan clutch mod made that issue go away for me too! Its road travel with plow that makes it overheat. Do the fan clutch mod and that will go away. It sure fixed me!
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
First I had to grind off the centering pads on the Hayden clutch or the Dmax fan won't sit flat, I centered it using the open holes like you did, took me 2 tries to get it centered, then drilled thru the fan and used the other 2 for added security, so it still has 6 bolts. I also modded the fan clutch, was tricky as the spring isn't that long like the OE's. Had to trim the passenger side of the fan shroud as it sat over more to the drivers side.
Wow, at idle, partially engaged, it sucks you into the grill,
:thumbsup:
robzombie4551
robzombie4551
Sweet! Glad it worked out for you and hope you have high temps a thing of the past.:thumbsup:
Don't you just love how the fan sucks better than a 2 dollar hooker on crack !!!!
Not that I would know, but so I've heard.:rof:
Don't you just love how the fan sucks better than a 2 dollar hooker on crack !!!!
Not that I would know, but so I've heard.:rof:
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Sweet! Glad it worked out for you and hope you have high temps a thing of the past.:thumbsup:
Don't you just love how the fan sucks better than a 2 dollar hooker on crack !!!!
Not that I would know, but so I've heard.:rof:
No doubt, and honestly, its like the electric fans on my van, :thumbsup:
Sure, sure, I won't tell your wife,
:rof:
robzombie4551
robzombie4551
Go ahead !! I'll tell her to put the crack pipe down long enough to read your post. HA HA:rof::rof::rof:
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Such a satisfying feeling. Low RPM CFM's are fantastic. I remember smelling an oil burn off smell after installing mine. As If its pushing/pulling all that heat over the engine creating a burn-off smell that the old unit was incapable of.
I think a properly modified clutch is one of the best 6.5 mods.
I've also noticed it engages easier if you back out of the RPM's for a second or 2 (if you can), that seems to allow engagement. So if temps are climbing and you have a spot on a hill you can let off for a second, do it so it engages.
I think a properly modified clutch is one of the best 6.5 mods.
I've also noticed it engages easier if you back out of the RPM's for a second or 2 (if you can), that seems to allow engagement. So if temps are climbing and you have a spot on a hill you can let off for a second, do it so it engages.