3500GMC
What T F, over
She spins over real good.
Bolt on some monster cables and it'll probably flip the truck over.
Bolt on some monster cables and it'll probably flip the truck over.
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True,but it takes longer for the starter to get hot too + batts are usually half the capacity.Have you ever spent a winter in AK? When an engine is so cold you can burn up a starter trying to get it to turn fast enough to start. May not be the same as hot climate but it sure isn't easy on em either lol
You got a shot starter drive,look in the sticky's how to DIY rebuild.I have a 19955 k3500. The starter seems to unload or unengage when the motor starts to
hit. Then it free spins for a second. Have to crank it a couple times to get it to fire. I've been reading but can't find which is best. Advance has a rebuilt for 209.00, but I think I saw ssdiesel had a gear reduction for 150? Which should I get? Mine has a brace on what looks like the factory starter. From what im reading I need a different brace for a gear reduction one correct,?
It still starts, im just trying to head off a problem thanks. Chris
Fine,plenty people here allready,don't want it to look like NYCounterpoint: Who'd want to live in Alberta, CA...? Afterall YOU live there...
:rof:
I use NAPA for most stuff on the farm. Only time i dont is if they are way over prices on something or I know its junk.
Their Premium rebuilts and new starters are lifetime warranties it lists them as being Delco starters, the New starter is around $300 my cost, their premium reman is actually $30 more, I dont know what walk in customers cost is.
I also dont know how good their starters are. A lifetime warranty does you no good if it fails every year or two. Also depends on your service with your local NAPA. Ours is phenomenal and never have any issues. But I know of enough people who have complaints about their local NAPAs.
Thought maybe a video of a couple starts would be better than words, so folks could judge for themselves.
The relevant specs are: powermaster starter put on at engine build time a few years/35k miles ago, 2x Diehard Platinum P4 AGM batteries (880CCA/ea), original batt cables, engine compression should be around 19:1. Haven't done a compression test since rebuild, but plan to this winter while the front end is off (for turbo project fabrication) & access for compression test is easiest.
My 89 is still stock,i never had a problem.replaced 1 starter and 1 alt in the16 years i own it.The factory cables are undersized. So are the wires going to the alternator. That's why they are always baked on older vehicles. It has to shorten the life of the alternators and starters having undersized cables.
First of all, don't post videos like that with your hood open because it makes the rest of us look bad. Your engine bay is stunning. What state are you in?
Second, HOLY COW! I really like that thing spinning over that fast.
3500GMC - is there a weak point with the factory cables?
You should be able to.Bison thanks. I think I will rebuild it, can I get a kit from parts store?
I live just north of Kansas City. Truck gets driven every day rain or snow; all the time spent blasting & powder coating engine tin & brackets at rebuild time does make it/keep it looking nice. FWIW - I find the aerosol cans of pickup bed liner excellent for refurbishing the black material of the rad shroud, airbox, etc.
With lower compression & needing it to start reliably in winter temps, I put some thought & $ into starter/batts etc. The Diehard Platinum P4 AGM batteries are also a significant reason it cranks fast; they're expensive but good - if they actually last the 2-3x normal batt life claimed, then they'll be a reasonable bargain - time will tell)
(relabelled Odyssey battery - http://odysseybatteries.com/
Have got new/heavy batt cables but haven't installed/cut to length, as I plan to move the batt location(s) sometime this winter; there's been no rush as it spins over pretty good as is.