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Wheel bearings

HighSierra86 said:
For just the bearings im assuming?

I pulled the hub last night without much trouble, and its quite a bit different from my 2500. There is one bearing in the hub and another in the spindle assembly. I think just for price reasons ill go with the timkens.

Now there should be a dust seal on the driveshaft side too correct?

Just for the hell of it i looked at a chiltons book i had for an exploded diagram, but it was useless as usual. Has every design possible, except for the one i have.
Click to expand...

I'ts a complete sealed hub assy with integral ABS sensor not supposed to be field repairable, though I hear some have done it, but since it's a hub assy, you won't find it in a manual or in the normal part house catalogs as they sell the whole assy as a complete unit.
 
Can anyone tell me the torque spec for the axle nut???? I know the flange bolts are 59ftlbs, but i cant find a torque spec for the large axle nut.

Thanks

And i do have pictures on the way....just as soon as i can find the cable for my camera
 
OH MAN!! I wish I saw this. I have a brrand new one sitting in the box in my garage. If you didn't buy one yet pm me. It's a National. I'll let it go cheap. I bought it for a spare for the Tahoe and never needed it. I carried it in the back cause I'm paraniod when I travel and take a whole auto parts store with me.
 
Acesneights1 said:
OH MAN!! I wish I saw this. I have a brrand new one sitting in the box in my garage. If you didn't buy one yet pm me. It's a National. I'll let it go cheap. I bought it for a spare for the Tahoe and never needed it. I carried it in the back cause I'm paraniod when I travel and take a whole auto parts store with me.
Click to expand...

man you suck..........haha oh well

national is the same one i bought...very cheap ($143), probably wont last me long with the big ol fisher plow, but i just didnt feel like dishing out more cash for the delco one.

Thanks for the torque spec chickenhunterbob
 
That sucks. I would have gave it to you for the 50$ I paid for it. It was the better one of the two typres availible aftermarket. Then again I still have the 94 so I may need it anyway.
 
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The 95 1500 has the one piece bearing and hub just like its bigger brothers.

Remove the wheel/tire assembly and block the A arm and or the frame.
Remove the brake caliper and tie it up so the hose doen not get reefed on.
Remove the nut in the center of the axle shaft
Remove the four (4) bolts that go from the inside of the hub outward to the bearing assembly. (Three (3) on the 1500)

Unhook the ABS wiring at the plug

****** These bolts can be a bitch********

***CAUTION ****** Use only a stout hex socket and NOT a 12 point

The 12 point thin sockets will round the bolts over if they are real tight.

I have a 15MM impact socket that I have turned down in the lathe so it will fit in the area.

You could grind one down on the bench grinder if need be.

Once the bolts are out the bearing assembly and the rotor as a unit should slide out of the hub.

**(NOTE)** The 1500 has the bolts from the front side 2500 and 3500 has the bolts from behind



Under some conditions a slide hammer fastened to the wheels studs is needed to get the beasts off.

Depends on the conditions that the rig has been subjected to.

Clean the bearing bore in the hub out. Make sure the little seal in there is in good order and id not, replace it.

Lube the bore and the seal with a little wheel bearing grease (Lightly) and install the new assembly.

Use never seaze on the bolt threads.

Tighten the bolts and finish in reverse order.

Job done.

If all goes well with no issues of corroded or stuck parts, time required, 1 to 1.5 hours
This includes getting the tools out and puting them away.

****Note****
The splines on the axle are a non interference fit and will slip in and out easily.

**** NO need to beat on the axle****


Missy
 
Good thing you caught it when you did, if it seizes up it will snap the end of the shaft where the locknut torques up the spline shaft and then the wheel falls off, happened to me last year, I got some advance warning but did not know it, a week before it finally let go I got a ABS light, wheel bearing material "fuzzed up" the ABS sensor and set the ABS code.
 
Oh it let me know it was bad alright. It had a very noticable whine when you slowed down. I know the other side is on its way out, but im gonna wait a while on that one. Might be sooner as opposed to later though. The idea of loosing a wheel and then having to buy an axle shaft dosent sound too fun
 
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