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Wheel bearings Oyyy

You prob pushed the seals inside out by doing that.

you prob better of to add a bit of syntetic gearoil

That's why I used a small pick to push in under the seal lip to lift it up some to give the grease a place to escape without pushing the seal out.
 
well, 600$ definitely hurt but since I am not the original owner and have no idea whether or not they were ever done, I changed them. The problem is not repacking but the fact that I can't inspect them. I can't tell if the hardened surface is worn or pitted the outer seals looked worn and my family life is definitely worth 600$ so I find comfort that it's better to err on the side of caution. I'm gonna do the Tahoe too. They are cheaper.
 
I pour in some gear oil and pack as much grease in the back side as I can when I have the C/V shafts out of the hub.

I think the 2500HD/3500 hubs are alot more robust than the 1500/2500LD, I've replaced around ten half ton hubs and only one 1ton hub. Slap a heavier diesel in a half ton and I can see where failure rates would go up exponentially, all the half ton ones I replaced were on lighter gassers.

I had a 89 2500LD 350 gasser and it would go through hubs about every 100k.

My 92 2500HD has 350k on the original hubs and they still feel tight/smooth, but it saw very little mud/deep water the first 200k, mainly highway towing, I replaced ball joints/C/V boots @200k and ball joints again around 300k lubing the hubs each time it was apart.

But its good piece of mind having new parts.

Its hard to say when these will fail, like my feed truck I wouldn't be surprised if they only last 50k caring all that weight running eight inches sloppy watery mud/manure in lots and pastures, where as a strictly highway truck prolly would go 500k with a little maintenance. Best to check periodically with a dial indicator for slack, see how they feel and replace if in doubt.

Be careful of aftermarket parts, most are not near the quality of factory GM, compare prices, shop around, then make a decision. Moog aint the quality of GM, but there prolly the best aftermarket you can get. I'd think you cant go wrong with Timken hubs. If you use Moog, get your part numbers and order them from summit and save about 30%, that's what I do.
 
They were National-Federal Mogul. Made in Japan not china. I carry a 8.5 foot blade plus this truck was well worked before I got it. Maybe I wasted my money, I'll never know but the truck is safe. I lost two steering axles wheels on the highway in separate incidents. One was on a Superliner the other on a Western Star. It's not something I woiuld like to experience again.
 
I replaced the hub bearings on my truck for 223 bucks apiece from auto parts warehouse, with ABS sensors and free shipping. They were Timkin bearings which is what the old hubs were. The old bearings were OK, I just did it for maintenance reasons as I was replacing the rotors any way.
 
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