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Wheel bearings Oyyy

A

Acesneights1

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Location
Northeast CT
I remember reading TD's post about them, I have to change my rotors(what a nightmare BTW, I hate these front ends) and am thinking should I spend the 600$ for new bearing assembleys ? It's on my 1 ton. 178k on them. BTW I'll expand this later with pics in case anybody else is old school. It took me a little while to figure out how the thing comes apart. Of course the guy at the fleet garage at work told me the rotors on these are pull offs so that didn't help. Let me assure you, they don't pull off. Complete dissassembly of the wheel is required.
 
Go to auto parts warehouse and get Timkin hub bearings for your K3500. It was the best price I could find. I got rotors there as well. Did the job 6 weeks ago and all is good.
 
Advance Auto was 289 per side for the "better" ones. They'll have them tommorow morn. I need to put it back together tommorow. I guess I should change them even thogh the old ones seem fine.
 
Probably SHOULD. Get your torches handy and anti-sieze for re-assembly. Pretty straight forward, wheel, axle nut, brake rotors, then 4 bolts from the back, and it should all slide out, Then torch and undo the 8 lug nuts that separate the hub from the rotor. Actually, thats my hub extension for the dually. Yours will be different, but I'm not sure how.
 
No torch. Just had to punch out the studs but in reality I didn't even need to do that since I'm replacing the rotor and bearing. All I need is new studs. The 50$ questin here is when I eventually take my Tahoe apart I wonder if the 8 lug assblys will fit on the Tahoe ? I would LOVE to make that thing 8 lug and lose that 1/2 ton junk ,station wagon rear ,before it blows and the wheel passes me on the highway like so many GM 1/2 rears have done.
 
Check part numbers on front axle shafts. There may be alot more to it than the hub. Or maybe there wont be. Check part #'s on the hub too whuile youre at it.

The studs you punched out are not re-usable?
 
Two were shot. Might change them all. See how much they are. Runnin outta money. 800$ between rotors,bearings etc. My ATT money is flying out the window. Dennis is going have to have "no Money Down, No interest"
:)
 
Not bad 180k out of rotors. I went with ceramic pads a few years back and they wear excellent and leave no rusty dust. I always buy the best when it comes to front end/brakes.
 
The part that sucks is my rotors were not bad wear wise. I let the truck sit a little spell last winter and they got crazy rusted and pitted so bad they were unusable. I threw pads in but the thing shakes like a dog shittin razor blades to the point where I can't deal with driving it. The rotors were cheap about 50$ each. damn bearing assblys though. Boy do I miss my older trucks. The front ends were better, simpler, and lasted longer.(well execpt ball joints but all my rides had lifts and big tires.)
 
Let us know how the ABS does with two new bearings.... Mine does that stupid pulse thing everytime I stop, but I only swapped out one hub.
 
I'll disconnect it in a heartbeat. GM ABS leave alot to be desired anyway. I pulled the plug in my Tahoe long ago and never looked back.
 
Acesneights1 said:
I'll disconnect it in a heartbeat. GM ABS leave alot to be desired anyway. I pulled the plug in my Tahoe long ago and never looked back.
Click to expand...

The ABS in the pickup has caused me to almost rearend someone twice. Foot to the floor on the brake pedal means stop, not "i'll think about stopping".

Says they leave alot to be desired is being nice Kenny.
 
iamdave0887 said:
The ABS in the pickup has caused me to almost rearend someone twice. Foot to the floor on the brake pedal means stop, not "i'll think about stopping".

Says they leave alot to be desired is being nice Kenny.
Click to expand...

DID cost me an accident..... I think i'll disconnect mine and deal with the light. I did like it better without it.
 
iamdave0887 said:
The ABS in the pickup has caused me to almost rearend someone twice. Foot to the floor on the brake pedal means stop, not "i'll think about stopping".

Says they leave alot to be desired is being nice Kenny.
Click to expand...


Same here...Ive pulled the ABS on 3 of our trucks and my 95 is just a matter of time. Anti-lock brakes are a great thing when they work properly. It just seems that in the older vehicles, they dont seem to meet my expectations. I almost got T-boned with our van one day when i hit one of those metal caps in the road while coming down a hill. Well the abs kicked in and right through the stop sign i went. Some saftey feature. And on grass...forget it...towing hay wagons sucks.
 
Acesneights1 said:
The 50$ questin here is when I eventually take my Tahoe apart I wonder if the 8 lug assblys will fit on the Tahoe ? I would LOVE to make that thing 8 lug and lose that 1/2 ton junk ,station wagon rear ,before it blows and the wheel passes me on the highway like so many GM 1/2 rears have done.
Click to expand...

The 2500/3500 bearing assembly bolts on with four bolts, where the lighter trucks only had three. Prolly could use a set of 2500/3500 steering knuckles and make it work. But then you'd have to swap brakes, C/V shafts, not sure if front diff will bolt to the heavier shafts. Think I'd slap a Dana 60 in there, be just as cheap and be bullet proof.
 
Thanks for the info. Gues that kills that idea.
As far as ABS light you can get that to stop when you unplug the ABS unit. I forgot which plug I pulled but i can look under my hood. The problem with ABS is I seriuosly doubt it was intended to stay working for 150k+ miles which most of us have without having sensors cleaned etc. Personally , I'll trust myself to stop over the trucks computer. The engineers didn't take into consideration brake dust, road salt etc. Under Ideal conditions it works but ideal conditiions rarely exist.
 
If you unplug the 3 connectors at the pump you will have NO ABS light. As for the hub bearings, I repacked mine. They were still in good shape and I couldn't justify the $130 a side that CARQUEST quoted me for hubs. So I simply injected grease through the ABS sensor hole until fresh grease came out from both sides. I'll see how it works out here soon.
 
rockauto.com has great prices, that who I bought -timenken and moog parts for almost half the price
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If you unplug the 3 connectors at the pump you will have NO ABS light. As for the hub bearings, I repacked mine. They were still in good shape and I couldn't justify the $130 a side that CARQUEST quoted me for hubs. So I simply injected grease through the ABS sensor hole until fresh grease came out from both sides. I'll see how it works out here soon.
Click to expand...

I think that is what someone else did to these. There was different colored grease. I probably should have done that but it's too late now. My wife uses the truck sometimes and i drive on the highway alot with it.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If you unplug the 3 connectors at the pump you will have NO ABS light. As for the hub bearings, I repacked mine. They were still in good shape and I couldn't justify the $130 a side that CARQUEST quoted me for hubs. So I simply injected grease through the ABS sensor hole until fresh grease came out from both sides. I'll see how it works out here soon.
Click to expand...
You prob pushed the seals inside out by doing that.

you prob better of to add a bit of syntetic gearoil
 
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