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Wheel bearing meltdown.........

Yachtcare

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for the rear of truck in the signature......bearings, races easy enough to find. Having difficulty locating the repair sleeves. Would like to find one for both, but the one for the outer bearing may be absolutly necessary.

Too late to make phone calls tonight, but advance and az are no go, and napa, and rock auto dont show anything online. Hoping someone has some suggestions where to look. Thanks.
 
Not sure if you can get repair sleeves. That truck would have the full floating 14 bolt axle. The wheel bearings are in the drum. The outer race presses into the drum(i think) and the inner race part ofthe bearing. The bearings line up and slide onto the spindle. They are tapered roller bearings. There's 2 bearings per side, an inner and an outer, as well as a seal to keep the axle oil in. The bearings are lubricated by the gear oil in the axle.
 
If you know the diameters and widths call your local industrial bearing supplier. They may even be familiar with the application.
The do stock speedy sleeves in most of the common sizes.
 
I've never heard of a repair sleeve for the surface the bearing goes on, only for the oil seal. Have you used or seen these before?
On a semi-floating car axle I've used a axle- saver bearing that rides on a different spot of the axle. It came from NAPA.
 
I agree with you Barry. For the seal surface only and that's what I thought he was asking for. I should have read more carefully.:nonod:
 
If the spindle is damaged best bet is to chuck the whole thing and get a used one from the junky. Although spindle restoration can be done, on something like this the cost is not worth it when a whole nuther diff can be had from a junky for 3-400$. GM 14 bolts are a dime a dozen. If just the hub is damaged that can be replaced. Hell you might even find one cheaper. Keep the guts from the old one.
 
If it is just the seal surface you'll want something like a Stemco kit. you will not find that at a chain autoparts store. Only a HD truck parts place would carry them if they even make them for 14 bolt. They might.
 
If the spindle is damaged best bet is to chuck the whole thing and get a used one from the junky. Although spindle restoration can be done, on something like this the cost is not worth it when a whole nuther diff can be had from a junky for 3-400$. GM 14 bolts are a dime a dozen. If just the hub is damaged that can be replaced. Hell you might even find one cheaper. Keep the guts from the old one.

I just checked Car-part.com for the midwest . They varied from $650-$1400:eek::WTF: for a wide 4.10 . Not exactly a dime a dozen:nonod:
 
I just checked Car-part.com for the midwest . They varied from $650-$1400:eek::WTF: for a wide 4.10 . Not exactly a dime a dozen:nonod:

Yeah, in SW FL theres only two junkys in town near me, and two more about 40 to 70 miles out (everglades restoration zone put most out of business in last ten years) and shipping on something like that is gonna be pricey also. The seal and inner bearing surface is fine. It's the outer bearing that fused to the spindle end. I split the nut and was able to salvage the key and capture washer, buty the surface where the outer bearing went is rough as a cob. Not sure if I can clean it up good enough with a file and emory paper.

Thanks for the replies, will be outside tomorrow morning with file in hand.
 
I just checked Car-part.com for the midwest . They varied from $650-$1400:eek::WTF: for a wide 4.10 . Not exactly a dime a dozen:nonod:

That's car part. Anything on there is stupid money. Local junkys can be alot cheaper if you know the right one.
They can lick balls for 1400$. I can buy a whole rotted chevy truck for 600$...:D
 
If the spindle is damaged replace it. My boss tried "cleaning it up" on a Western Star. No fun on the LIE 495 at 2pm on a friday when your wheel passes you and you got 40 ton on your back.
Call around and see if you can find a blown one and swap your guts otherwise try a few heavy truck places and see if any offer DOT certified axle restoration. They spray-weld it and turn it back down. I'm not even in love with that but it's legal.
 
Yep, Kenny is right on this one. I have had a spindle on a 14 full floater repaired, -drop it off and pay the $300, pick it up a day later. The results were very nice, -the journal diameters were spot-on after welding/turning/grinding. The best part was not having to dink around with all the other stuff, -just pull the diff, brake lines, etc. then pick it up and put it all back together. I had one with a plugged axle-tube (the 14FF hub bearings get their oil from the pumpkin).

Since then, I ALWAYS pack the stupid bearings with grease, even when the FSM says not to. The name of the company here in Oregon (if you're interested in shipping it out here) is AXLE MASTER MACHINING SERVICES, 16345 SE EVELYN ST CLACKAMAS, OR 97015 (503) 656-8100.

They do it right, but obviously they are not cheap. Kenny is right about trying to find a local wide 14FF out of a yard somewhere, -preferably with the right gear ratio so you wouldn't have to do any guts-swappin. It's too bad the spindles on the 14 aren't flanged like they are on the D-44, that would be great, -but unfortunately they're welded...
 
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